Mischko's 130D Reef Tank
- Thread starter Mischko
- Start date
Mischko
Member
Trachyphyllia it is. It's bocked in the shop. I am there tomoorw at the LFS helping doing some IT-stuff during their holidays so I am going to pick it up. LFS is closed from tomorrow on for 2 weeks. First time in 4 years, but main reason is to install the 5 metres display tank. Hope I can take some pictures during the setup and show you guys here what it's gonna be and what tech stuff is going to be used. Will be sure fun helping out and interesting.
Great colors !!!
Mischko
Member
Problem with the 'classical' Balling system is it was developed at a time where no high quality salts were available containing the needed trace elements and other things. Don't get fooled by so called high priced salts. They also can lack needed trace elements. As you can imagine those elements are costly to purchase and add to the salt and often enough in an expensive salt they are missing.
Anyways, with the classic Balling system you will over the time sooner or later overdose certain values completely. Think about what you use and dose with that system, what is added, what is consumed!
On the other hand think about how you calculate the amounts you have to add to your tank with the classic Balling system. Do you know exactly how much water you have in your tank? I bet you any money here nobody in this forum can tell me on the spot exactly how many litres/gallons are in his/her tank at all! Only estimates and with the classic Balling system, depending on your tank size, having a difference in water volume of 10 or 100 litres has a big impact. Another thing to think about with the classic Balling system, you are adding stuff to your tank with that system constantly, what will happen when you make a water change with a salt of your choice containing already what you add with the classic Balling system? Get the idea?
With the Light Balling system you are adding only what is really consumed by your tank and corals. That is the big difference, there are no calculations required based on water volume which can be faulty. You add what is consumed. Have a look about the chemics with the classic Balling system and how it works and I am sure there will be an eye opener for you in it!
Anyways, with the classic Balling system you will over the time sooner or later overdose certain values completely. Think about what you use and dose with that system, what is added, what is consumed!
On the other hand think about how you calculate the amounts you have to add to your tank with the classic Balling system. Do you know exactly how much water you have in your tank? I bet you any money here nobody in this forum can tell me on the spot exactly how many litres/gallons are in his/her tank at all! Only estimates and with the classic Balling system, depending on your tank size, having a difference in water volume of 10 or 100 litres has a big impact. Another thing to think about with the classic Balling system, you are adding stuff to your tank with that system constantly, what will happen when you make a water change with a salt of your choice containing already what you add with the classic Balling system? Get the idea?
With the Light Balling system you are adding only what is really consumed by your tank and corals. That is the big difference, there are no calculations required based on water volume which can be faulty. You add what is consumed. Have a look about the chemics with the classic Balling system and how it works and I am sure there will be an eye opener for you in it!
Mischko
Member
Oh and my favorite topic, while I am in the mood typing. Zero levels! I was just reading somewhere else about a guy having problems with his corals degrading and why that is happening though he has the perfect water values. All zero, can't even trace Phosphate with several test kits.
Well, Phosphate will cause algae to grow, right? So, what do you think the symbiotic algae in your corals need? Phosphate, I assume ;-) and what will happen if your Phosphate level is down to zero according to your test kit or if you us a phosphate absorbing media really hardcore?
In natural marine water you have a level of phosphate about 0,06 down to 0,015 in reefs. That level is still sufficient for the symbiotic algaes in corals, but too low for e. g. hair algae.
Well, Phosphate will cause algae to grow, right? So, what do you think the symbiotic algae in your corals need? Phosphate, I assume ;-) and what will happen if your Phosphate level is down to zero according to your test kit or if you us a phosphate absorbing media really hardcore?
In natural marine water you have a level of phosphate about 0,06 down to 0,015 in reefs. That level is still sufficient for the symbiotic algaes in corals, but too low for e. g. hair algae.
Mischko
Member
I am sobing now since you are all ignoring me, you guys are cruel LOL
I had a field day today since I could help unpacking a shipment of corals, fish and other stuff at my LFS. Was like X-Mas to me, serious and totally enjoyed it being able to unpack stuff being flown over from across the globe and how it is treated then and checked and and ...
If I had the space and the tank I am pretty sure I would have grabbed half of the corals all for me, selfish as I am ;-)
I had a field day today since I could help unpacking a shipment of corals, fish and other stuff at my LFS. Was like X-Mas to me, serious and totally enjoyed it being able to unpack stuff being flown over from across the globe and how it is treated then and checked and and ...
If I had the space and the tank I am pretty sure I would have grabbed half of the corals all for me, selfish as I am ;-)
RSM250PEARL
Member
Great write up Mischko. Thanks for the information regarding the FM balling light system, I cant wait to start it properly.
I enjoy your post ! but I seldom test...
Mischko
Member
Now then, it is Dremel time tomorrow. I have some Acans here I so have to glue on their designated rock. Urghhh, I hate it, taking them poor animals out, cut the frag stone off and then some nice glue. Good thing I got meself a nice diamond blade/disk for the Dremel. Hope it will help. Last time I did it with a circular blade. Not good!
It takes such a long time for me to finally put all my guts together and do this. I bet you guys know the feeling, going over and over where you put that and this coral then on the rocks. Terrible, worse than our girls picking shoes or handbags ;-)
It takes such a long time for me to finally put all my guts together and do this. I bet you guys know the feeling, going over and over where you put that and this coral then on the rocks. Terrible, worse than our girls picking shoes or handbags ;-)
Mischko
Member
Grrrr, didn't make it today *mutter nutter* friggen tax office *spitting curses* had grocery shopping to do *mumbles* gf bent her right foot
Just teh daily joys of life. Hope nothing will happen tomorrow and I can finally attach the corals on their designated rock. I have the frags just pushed into the gravel for now, but having 2 big Babylonias and a mitra Mitra the gravel is not really the safest spot for them ;-)
Just teh daily joys of life. Hope nothing will happen tomorrow and I can finally attach the corals on their designated rock. I have the frags just pushed into the gravel for now, but having 2 big Babylonias and a mitra Mitra the gravel is not really the safest spot for them ;-)
Mischko
Member
I thought I'd share my chiller setup. As you can see it is a very delicate piece of technology. Not easy to handle, some say it might even take years to handle it properly. Costs for this piece of high technology are obviously beyond ridiculous and beyond imagination. Rumors say that even NASA got a hold on a few of those to cool things down.
It works! Good fan placed right can reduce temp. for about 2-4 degree Celcius. I had to get one of those fans today since we had over 33 C° here and having that until Saturday.