Post your RSM 250 Mods Here!
- Thread starter bodyguard295
- Start date
screensweeper
New Member
Hi there ,
I have build in a led fixture in the hood and want to share it with you .
It is a maxspect G2-230 .
I have the fixture now for 5 / 6 months and the water heats less up than with the original T5 and the stone corals are growing better .
And i did another mod with the fans in the hood the original were to loud and changed them immediatley when i got the rsm with these fans :
6 fans instead of 4
SilenX iXtrema Pro IXP-34-08 -
Specificaties:
Model: IXP-34-08
Noise: 8DBA
Dimensions: 60x60x25mm
RPM: 1500
CFM: 10
Operating voltage: 8-14v
Current draw: 0.07A
Power consumption: 0.84w
Bearings: FDB, fluid dynamic bearings
The temperature of the fixture gets 39 °C / 102.2 °F .
Cheers Dennis
I have build in a led fixture in the hood and want to share it with you .
It is a maxspect G2-230 .
I have the fixture now for 5 / 6 months and the water heats less up than with the original T5 and the stone corals are growing better .
And i did another mod with the fans in the hood the original were to loud and changed them immediatley when i got the rsm with these fans :
6 fans instead of 4
SilenX iXtrema Pro IXP-34-08 -
Specificaties:
Model: IXP-34-08
Noise: 8DBA
Dimensions: 60x60x25mm
RPM: 1500
CFM: 10
Operating voltage: 8-14v
Current draw: 0.07A
Power consumption: 0.84w
Bearings: FDB, fluid dynamic bearings
The temperature of the fixture gets 39 °C / 102.2 °F .
Cheers Dennis
redsea reefer
Well-Known Member
Nice and bright, Great job!
to ReefSanctuary and the RSM Club, a real Sanctuary of reef forums, with lots of very nice members
Nice mod !!!
screensweeper
New Member
Hi Reefmack ,
The leds are not dimmable but they have a Programmable timer for each led group ( 4 groups ) allows for different start up and shut down time of each led group .
The 4 groups are :
1 = 15 leds 3W white and 8 1W violet
2 = 15 leds 3W blue
3 = 2 leds 30W white
4 = 2 leds 30W white
The leds are not dimmable but they have a Programmable timer for each led group ( 4 groups ) allows for different start up and shut down time of each led group .
The 4 groups are :
1 = 15 leds 3W white and 8 1W violet
2 = 15 leds 3W blue
3 = 2 leds 30W white
4 = 2 leds 30W white
Very nice! Thanks for the information!
The tank is definitely well lit - top to bottom.You should start a tank thread for us.
ukoldschool
Member
As I havnt done it as yet thought id list my mods here in one go....
RSM 250
Stock skimmer changed for Deltec MC500 which sits in the middle chamber once you cut away a small bit of platic... inlet airline is extended to outside. I only run this at night and empty and clean the cup every morning (while I wait for the kettle to boil....)
All sponges removed from the rear, bio balls replaced with live rock rubble, a bag of carbon and a bag of rowaphos.
Home made nitrate reactor in the left hand chamber made from a container of seachem denitrate, being fed from a hole drilled in the bottom by a small 200lph pump.... water exits from small holes drilled in the lid.... Only had this running for 2 weeks now and if im honest I dont test anymore, but it seems to be working as the algae film/growth has slowed somewhat, and some caluerpa I had in the tank had died off (although that may just be a greedy jewel blenny at work)
Large pump in the left chamber replaced with a newjet 3000, which exits via a hydor flo rotating nozzle.
Right hand pump currently stock, but exiting via a hydorflo too. Will be replaced with a newjet 1700 when I find one second hand...)
ATO fitted with an 18l resevoir in the right hand of the cabinet fed by a newjet 1200 pump into the central chamber with the heater/skimmer in, switch is housed in the far left hand chamber next to the level sight, and is set to keep the rear levels at 4 notches down from the top.
TC10 fitted to the left hand cabinet which controls the heater when temp drops below 26.5c, and turns on the rear fans (see below) above 27c
Rear cooling fans removed, central plastic 'spine' cut out and 2x 80mm noctura 12v PC fans cable tied into place. These are powered by a 13v powerpack from the TC10.
2x extra 60mm PC fans added into the hood (one wither side) to help with cooling the lamps/ballasts (temp is lower anyway as I dont use the 12v outlet for the night light leds or the rear colling fans), these are just powered by patching into the existing supply for the 2 standard fans (which were cleaned) I also reversed the flow so the air enters from the right and exits on the left (to stop the other half moaning about the hot air going over the sofa)
2x strips of blue LED's added to the hood, these are wedged into the sides of the reflector (unscrew is enough to fit them, then tighten back up to hold them) and are on a seperate timer to come on for an hour just after lights out.
1x aquaray 500 reef white strip (LED) screwed into the feeding flap, really helps with lighting at the front of the tank which is quite dark due to the flap taking up room from the T5's..... This is on a seperate timer and comes on before and after the main lights to simulate sun up/down...
Lighting is as follows:
11am aquaray comes on
12am main lights come on with the aquaray
10pm main lights off
10.30 blue LEDS on
11pm aquaray off
12pm blue LEDs off
Just got some Narva blue tubes and osram skywhites to try out inthe hood.....
2x unmodified Tunze 6025 powerheads in the tank, one on all the time, the other on a timer so its on for 15 mins, then off during the day, and off at night
cheers
RSM 250
Stock skimmer changed for Deltec MC500 which sits in the middle chamber once you cut away a small bit of platic... inlet airline is extended to outside. I only run this at night and empty and clean the cup every morning (while I wait for the kettle to boil....)
All sponges removed from the rear, bio balls replaced with live rock rubble, a bag of carbon and a bag of rowaphos.
Home made nitrate reactor in the left hand chamber made from a container of seachem denitrate, being fed from a hole drilled in the bottom by a small 200lph pump.... water exits from small holes drilled in the lid.... Only had this running for 2 weeks now and if im honest I dont test anymore, but it seems to be working as the algae film/growth has slowed somewhat, and some caluerpa I had in the tank had died off (although that may just be a greedy jewel blenny at work
)Large pump in the left chamber replaced with a newjet 3000, which exits via a hydor flo rotating nozzle.
Right hand pump currently stock, but exiting via a hydorflo too. Will be replaced with a newjet 1700 when I find one second hand...)
ATO fitted with an 18l resevoir in the right hand of the cabinet fed by a newjet 1200 pump into the central chamber with the heater/skimmer in, switch is housed in the far left hand chamber next to the level sight, and is set to keep the rear levels at 4 notches down from the top.
TC10 fitted to the left hand cabinet which controls the heater when temp drops below 26.5c, and turns on the rear fans (see below) above 27c
Rear cooling fans removed, central plastic 'spine' cut out and 2x 80mm noctura 12v PC fans cable tied into place. These are powered by a 13v powerpack from the TC10.
2x extra 60mm PC fans added into the hood (one wither side) to help with cooling the lamps/ballasts (temp is lower anyway as I dont use the 12v outlet for the night light leds or the rear colling fans), these are just powered by patching into the existing supply for the 2 standard fans (which were cleaned) I also reversed the flow so the air enters from the right and exits on the left (to stop the other half moaning about the hot air going over the sofa
)2x strips of blue LED's added to the hood, these are wedged into the sides of the reflector (unscrew is enough to fit them, then tighten back up to hold them) and are on a seperate timer to come on for an hour just after lights out.
1x aquaray 500 reef white strip (LED) screwed into the feeding flap, really helps with lighting at the front of the tank which is quite dark due to the flap taking up room from the T5's..... This is on a seperate timer and comes on before and after the main lights to simulate sun up/down...
Lighting is as follows:
11am aquaray comes on
12am main lights come on with the aquaray
10pm main lights off
10.30 blue LEDS on
11pm aquaray off
12pm blue LEDs off
Just got some Narva blue tubes and osram skywhites to try out inthe hood.....
2x unmodified Tunze 6025 powerheads in the tank, one on all the time, the other on a timer so its on for 15 mins, then off during the day, and off at night
cheers
Nice update on the list of all of your mods. Do you also have your TC10 controller set to turn the heater off at a selected temperature? Other than controlling my lights, fans, etc. that was the biggest reason I got a controller - to prevent cooking the tank if the heater sticks on.
ukoldschool
Member
yeah the TC10 turns the heater off when the fans kick in
Oakhouse
Member
The TC10 is a great bit of kit, have one controlling heater and fans, have also removed the fan kit and fitted 3x 80mm fans either side of the skimmer cup pushing air in. Have the heater themostat dialled in at about 26c, and the TC10 switches it on at 26.4c and the fans switch on at 26.6c tank temp stays perfectly between these two temps.
ukoldschool
Member
would be interested in seeing a pic of the fans either side of the skimmer if you could post one?
Nowellsy SNR
Active Member
Nice mod Richard now go clean lol
ukoldschool
Member
haha! dirty boy!
byronredsea
Member
this is my mock up sump i have a full sheet of perspex in my garage so im getting it made out of that 8mm
Nowellsy SNR
Active Member
Great stuff look forward to the finished product
byronredsea
Member
Lol you are never finished in this hobby but do love it