Wills 130D with lifereef and sump
- Thread starter r1200GSA
- Start date
r1200GSA
Member
Here's a few 3D shots of a new sump I am thinking of building - comments, suggestions very welcome and needed!!:
The left hand side (back) is the water inlet, followed by a media tray area (possible make this a removable system, followed by the Tunze nano skimmer. This then flows into the main refugium area (the middle) and then finally flows through the holes right hand side into the return. The front section of the return area (on the right) is for RO water top off.
Here is a shot of the inlet, the water goes down and back up, then into the media section, flowing down over it, seems to be the best way to get a lot of water through the media:
All of the sump would be sealed with a lid, with specific cut outs for the inlet, outlet, nano collection cup, osmolator rails and maybe some way of routing cables tidly from the the pump and nano.
On the middle section, maybe some sort of lighting unit could be rigged up - not sure yet.
The left hand side (back) is the water inlet, followed by a media tray area (possible make this a removable system, followed by the Tunze nano skimmer. This then flows into the main refugium area (the middle) and then finally flows through the holes right hand side into the return. The front section of the return area (on the right) is for RO water top off.
Here is a shot of the inlet, the water goes down and back up, then into the media section, flowing down over it, seems to be the best way to get a lot of water through the media:
All of the sump would be sealed with a lid, with specific cut outs for the inlet, outlet, nano collection cup, osmolator rails and maybe some way of routing cables tidly from the the pump and nano.
On the middle section, maybe some sort of lighting unit could be rigged up - not sure yet.
WeddingCrasher
New Member
Battling the Red 's also, just can't seam to shift it, mate who owns store in Grays just suggested i try Elimi'Phos. Don’t know as not come across it before?
Bought RSM off eBay, updated everything (Lighting/Purigen/Carbon etc etc.) levels are all fine, so the fight goes on.
He just sent me new stock list from today, got some nice stuff don't know if you have good store where you are! FYI if interested (copied from email) i can ping you contact details.
Hammer Branched £49.99
Daisy LT, ST & Disk From £26.99
Plate £36.99
Bush £30
Golden Table £36.99
Button Polyp assorted From £30
Mushroms (blue, green stripe, red, White with Blue tinge (very Different), furry etc From £23
Sun Coral two sizes From £25
Prickly Brain £36.99
Pom Pom ST & LT From £35
Xenia From £25
Cornet Pink & Green From £45
Ricordia mushroom £45
Jasmin £30
Duncons 3X he\ad £35
frogspawn £65
crystal £36.99
Gorgonian From £30
Pinapple £35
Rose Anemone £75
Black christmas tree dont know £
Also got blue mettalic leg hermits, hard tube worms, feather dusters etc etc.
TMC hand picked.
Karl
Bought RSM off eBay, updated everything (Lighting/Purigen/Carbon etc etc.) levels are all fine, so the fight goes on.
He just sent me new stock list from today, got some nice stuff don't know if you have good store where you are! FYI if interested (copied from email) i can ping you contact details.
Hammer Branched £49.99
Daisy LT, ST & Disk From £26.99
Plate £36.99
Bush £30
Golden Table £36.99
Button Polyp assorted From £30
Mushroms (blue, green stripe, red, White with Blue tinge (very Different), furry etc From £23
Sun Coral two sizes From £25
Prickly Brain £36.99
Pom Pom ST & LT From £35
Xenia From £25
Cornet Pink & Green From £45
Ricordia mushroom £45
Jasmin £30
Duncons 3X he\ad £35
frogspawn £65
crystal £36.99
Gorgonian From £30
Pinapple £35
Rose Anemone £75
Black christmas tree dont know £
Also got blue mettalic leg hermits, hard tube worms, feather dusters etc etc.
TMC hand picked.
Karl
WeddingCrasher
New Member
Too late
LOL
LOL
WeddingCrasher
New Member
Soul sold last weekend on the ebay!
r1200GSA
Member
Let me know how you get on with the Cyano - I am just using Chemi-pure and Purigen, but only very recently, so will have to give it a few weeks to see how it goes!
r1200GSA
Member
Went and bought my second fish(s) last night, two black and white clowns, here they are aclimating - I tried to get a shot of them last night in the tank but they were enjoying their freedom too much, darting around like a couple of nutters!:
Here's a shot of my Torch coral - only had for about 2 weeks:
Now going to write up the Aquaray install - will post seperately.
Here's a shot of my Torch coral - only had for about 2 weeks:
Now going to write up the Aquaray install - will post seperately.
r1200GSA
Member
Aquaray LED Install into the front of the 130 Hood (for both 130 and 130D)
N.B. This was an original install by MrFishy and as such he needs to take all the glory for this one, I simply copied the install onto my 130D hood and wrote it up!
This will work fine on either model of the 130, you will need:
A hacksaw (handsaw)
Cable ties (Black or silver dependant upon your colour of Max)
A dremmel or other similar tool
Screws for pastic
Screwdrivers (flat and square heads)
OK, first thing, take the hood off the Max, you should all know how to do this as it is the reverse of putting it on! Doh!
Once the hood is off, flip it over.
Now at the front of the hood, where you are going to install the Aquarays, you will need to remove all of the plastic cover from the inside, I am talking about the trays to hold your test tubes and chemicals etc.
There are three screws that you will need to remove first they are situated here:
Here:
And here:
They are covered by a plastic plug, which for me didn't come out easily - I found it was best to drill them out. Just drill a little hole in each, and pry them with a small screwdriver.
Once the plugs are out, you can look down into them and you will find a screw on each. Simply undo each one.
Once the THREE screws are out the plastic should release a little from the hood like this:
The next thing you are going to need to do is to remove the screws from the hinge portion of the hood, pointed out here:
Now this next bit is the hardest bit of all, but if you are careful all will be well (of course if it's not, don't blame me!!!!
)
You need to cut the hinge that holds the front part of the hood onto the main hood. I used a Dremmel on a very slow setting with a cutting disc, you must do this carefully and slowly otherwise a) you end up with a very rough cut due to the melting of the plastic b) you end up cutting too much which will make it difficult to GLUE BACK TOGETHER!!!!! (in the picture below you can see my hinge glued back, but this is the line that you need to cut)
It is easy though, just do it carefully.
So make the cut along here:
From the edge of the hinge to the other. Once you have done this you can then remove out the plastic from the front of the hood. You may find that it still won't come out, don't worry, you will have to force it and it WILL feel like you are breaking it, but you won't!!!
OK, now you can remove the plastic part of the front hood:
Now, unfortunately you now have to cut the plastic hinge (it will appear to be the top half of the hinge) off the chemical tray, you do this so that you can glue it all back together and thus restore your hinge!
Ok, that is the hardest part completed! Now just glue the top part of the hinge back onto the bottom part of the hinge and let it set (depending upon the glue you use as to how long you need to do this). Like I have pointed out here:
So, installing one aquaray:
Very kindly, RSM has placed a screw hole exactly in the middle of the front hood - just exactly where the aquaray will sit, here:
So, get your aquaray mount, align it the centre hole with the centre hole on the hood, then mark on the plastic ridge of the hood, about one inch from either end of the aquaray mount, where you are going to make a hole for some cable ties to go in - I've marked the approx here:
Now thats done, pop a cable tie through each of these holes you just made, similar to where I have marked in the photo above. Place the Aquaray mount onto this plastic ridge, screw in the centre screw and then close up the cable ties around the aquaray mounting platform.
You can now mount your aquaray unit onto the AR mounting bar and job done!
Now, regardless of installing one or two, you will need a bit of cable management, so decide which side of the hood you are going to run the cables down - then make the following cuts:
You need a cut for the cable(s) to go through, then you need a hole just above that cut to put a cable tie through to hold your cable(s) in place. That way the hood will close flush back to the top of the tank!
Now, if you are installing TWO aquarays, then you can make use of the plastic posts on the inside of the front hood. As MrFishy did, you might want to consider aiming the second Aquaray towards the back of the tank to provide more light. This is done by making a very simple angled cut along the posts like this:
Make sure you make the cut at the right angle, otherwise you will have a nice aquaray light pointing down to your FLOOR!!!
You then need to get a piece of aluminium or plastic to screw along these three posts. This will give you the ability to mount the AQ mounting unit. Take a look at the finished product to see what I mean:
I really hope that made some sense - it looks difficult but trust me it isn't! If anyone has any questions or needs some help, just shout!!!
Next write up will be the additional moonlight LED's into the main light section of the hood.
N.B. This was an original install by MrFishy and as such he needs to take all the glory for this one, I simply copied the install onto my 130D hood and wrote it up!
This will work fine on either model of the 130, you will need:
A hacksaw (handsaw)
Cable ties (Black or silver dependant upon your colour of Max)
A dremmel or other similar tool
Screws for pastic
Screwdrivers (flat and square heads)
OK, first thing, take the hood off the Max, you should all know how to do this as it is the reverse of putting it on! Doh!
Once the hood is off, flip it over.
Now at the front of the hood, where you are going to install the Aquarays, you will need to remove all of the plastic cover from the inside, I am talking about the trays to hold your test tubes and chemicals etc.
There are three screws that you will need to remove first they are situated here:
Here:
And here:
They are covered by a plastic plug, which for me didn't come out easily - I found it was best to drill them out. Just drill a little hole in each, and pry them with a small screwdriver.
Once the plugs are out, you can look down into them and you will find a screw on each. Simply undo each one.
Once the THREE screws are out the plastic should release a little from the hood like this:
The next thing you are going to need to do is to remove the screws from the hinge portion of the hood, pointed out here:
Now this next bit is the hardest bit of all, but if you are careful all will be well (of course if it's not, don't blame me!!!!
)You need to cut the hinge that holds the front part of the hood onto the main hood. I used a Dremmel on a very slow setting with a cutting disc, you must do this carefully and slowly otherwise a) you end up with a very rough cut due to the melting of the plastic b) you end up cutting too much which will make it difficult to GLUE BACK TOGETHER!!!!! (in the picture below you can see my hinge glued back, but this is the line that you need to cut)
It is easy though, just do it carefully.
So make the cut along here:
From the edge of the hinge to the other. Once you have done this you can then remove out the plastic from the front of the hood. You may find that it still won't come out, don't worry, you will have to force it and it WILL feel like you are breaking it, but you won't!!!
OK, now you can remove the plastic part of the front hood:
Now, unfortunately you now have to cut the plastic hinge (it will appear to be the top half of the hinge) off the chemical tray, you do this so that you can glue it all back together and thus restore your hinge!
Ok, that is the hardest part completed! Now just glue the top part of the hinge back onto the bottom part of the hinge and let it set (depending upon the glue you use as to how long you need to do this). Like I have pointed out here:
So, installing one aquaray:
Very kindly, RSM has placed a screw hole exactly in the middle of the front hood - just exactly where the aquaray will sit, here:
So, get your aquaray mount, align it the centre hole with the centre hole on the hood, then mark on the plastic ridge of the hood, about one inch from either end of the aquaray mount, where you are going to make a hole for some cable ties to go in - I've marked the approx here:
Now thats done, pop a cable tie through each of these holes you just made, similar to where I have marked in the photo above. Place the Aquaray mount onto this plastic ridge, screw in the centre screw and then close up the cable ties around the aquaray mounting platform.
You can now mount your aquaray unit onto the AR mounting bar and job done!
Now, regardless of installing one or two, you will need a bit of cable management, so decide which side of the hood you are going to run the cables down - then make the following cuts:
You need a cut for the cable(s) to go through, then you need a hole just above that cut to put a cable tie through to hold your cable(s) in place. That way the hood will close flush back to the top of the tank!
Now, if you are installing TWO aquarays, then you can make use of the plastic posts on the inside of the front hood. As MrFishy did, you might want to consider aiming the second Aquaray towards the back of the tank to provide more light. This is done by making a very simple angled cut along the posts like this:
Make sure you make the cut at the right angle, otherwise you will have a nice aquaray light pointing down to your FLOOR!!!
You then need to get a piece of aluminium or plastic to screw along these three posts. This will give you the ability to mount the AQ mounting unit. Take a look at the finished product to see what I mean:
I really hope that made some sense - it looks difficult but trust me it isn't! If anyone has any questions or needs some help, just shout!!!
Next write up will be the additional moonlight LED's into the main light section of the hood.
WeddingCrasher
New Member
Nice. Will have to update in near future. thanx for follow through, i take it that you have your blue peter badge mounded within your room!
r1200GSA
Member
I always wanted a Blue Peter badge when I was a kid - never got one! Hows the Cyano today?
r1200GSA
Member
No probs, hope it helps. You will love the LEDs - gives the tank a completely new look!
Great job mate, very very nicely documented !!!
mrfishy
Member
great job Will !!!!!!
your setup looks fantastic, i saw this red sea in the flesh some weeks ago and the rock work was very well done plenty of high areas for sps frags !!
this tank has more gadgets than mine !!!!.
thanks for the mention on the light build but you have developed it on from my crude effort.
Going to watch this thread evolve as i can see this rsm turning out to be one of the best :bluenod:
your setup looks fantastic, i saw this red sea in the flesh some weeks ago and the rock work was very well done plenty of high areas for sps frags !!
this tank has more gadgets than mine !!!!.
thanks for the mention on the light build but you have developed it on from my crude effort.
Going to watch this thread evolve as i can see this rsm turning out to be one of the best :bluenod:
mbdave
Active Member
Nice tank, going back to the overflow do you have the return going to the tank or back compartment? I have the return going directly to the tank and I feel this works much better than having it go to the back chamber and then being pumped to the main tank. My way takes two pumps out of the equation and reduces the heat conducted by those two pumps. Also theres no problem with water levels as the level of the overflow box controls the level in the tank. Also I see your plannig a new sump have you considered a larger skimmer you will have the room? The Tunze is a great product but you could get much better with the available space.
Dave
Dave
@ r1200GSA
I am glad there is some info posted on how to install LEd lights in the RSM!! I am going to attempt thesame thing you did, after ordering the Aquaray LEDS.
Only thing is missing the photo's (no longer there at photobucket). Do you have these photo's posted elswere??? And did you use the blue leds, the whites or a mix of both? What do you think produces better results?
I am glad there is some info posted on how to install LEd lights in the RSM!! I am going to attempt thesame thing you did, after ordering the Aquaray LEDS.
Only thing is missing the photo's (no longer there at photobucket). Do you have these photo's posted elswere??? And did you use the blue leds, the whites or a mix of both? What do you think produces better results?
