Ultra algae x

[Fishdad1]

Something else I forgot to mention that leans me toward the "contageous" theory...

Why when you eliminate them would they not comeback? People who keep low nutrient systems usually aren't going to change their habits and most people who get rid of dinos usually don't see them again. Claude from FM also acknowledge that phenomenon.

 

[Fishdad1]

Update: Its been a day in a half with light at full strength and no sign of dinos. I think they are vanquished. I think its safe to say that Ultra Algae X is a great tool to put dinos on the ropes but the black out was the knock out punch. Had a snail death but other than that no live stock issues. In fact my gorgonian that was encased by dinos on a daily basis is doing a lot better.

If this didn't work, the next step would have been a tank tear down and restart. A tip of the hat to Algae X and the folks at Fauna Marin.

 

[slfcaptain]

Good to hear! I'll keep my fingers crossed that they are gone.

steve

 

[Mischko]

Good news indeed!!!

 

[Bearjohnson]

It's always nice when the hero wins! LOL

That's good news sir...Congrats!

 

[Fishdad1]

Thanks!

I did my first water change in almost two weeks, added cal and mag and some coral food and light is at full. So if those dinos are still there they will show their face soon. I think they're gone though... Thanks guys for the help.

 

[whippetguy]

Great news to hear, er read. Thanks again for sharing your experience.

 

[Fishdad1]

Well I guess I spoke too soon. Evil dinos are slowly returning. This is very discouraging. My gorgonians and tree corals are finally back to full strength after months of appearing sickly and will probably be overwhelmed again. I don't know why they are targeted by these things, but the are. The way I see it I have 3 options in front of me...

1) Use another dosing method. Some have reported success with H2O2 or added bacteria like what WhippitGuy recommended, Dr. Tim's Waste Away.
2) Work an algae scrubber into the system. It seems to be more than coincidence that tanks with algae scrubbers typically do not encounter this plague (although I can cite quite a few ULNS that also never see them either, why? I don't know). This is something I would really like to do , dinos or no dino but I simply don't have a logical place to put it. The tank is in the living room so I have to think about aesthetics. Although I have considered plummbing into the basement.
3) This is my nuclear option... Temporarily relocate all livestock, maybe convert my kids' 55g into a saltwater setup. Drain the tank and "flush" with freshwater and for all intents and purposes, kill the tank. Refill and recycle - I have read that a decent amount of BB can survive such an affair however freshwater spells instant death for dinos. Then at the proper time reintroduce the livestock.

If anyone has any suggestions in dealing with this algae, I'm all ears.

 

[Fishdad1]

H2O2 attack commenced. I know I will probably get criticized for this route but for an algae that is lethal to a reef tank and not well understood I am willing to take risk. The risk is loss of live stock, essentially the same risk of letting dinos go unchecked.

The theory of H2O2 dosing is it destroys single celled organisms in the water column by some sort of hyper photosynthesis. However it (in theory) leaves hard surface organisms safely alone. This is why I will be dosing at night, for one dinos can't reproduce at night but more importantly they seem to dissipate into the water column at night as well. If I see positive signs from H2O2, I may mimic someone on another forum who defeated dinos with a combination of H2O2 and staggering photo periods.

I'll update.

 

[slfcaptain]

Are you considering something like waste away too?

I feel for you and wish you luck.

steve

 

[Fishdad1]

I am. I decided to try H2O2 first for two reasons...

1) The dinos are growing fast and my LFS doesn't care waste away, so I have to wait for it to be shipped. I figured I'll try this in the mean time.
2) The Dr. Tims website recommended removing inverts as it can be harmful too them. So H2O2 at this point seems a little less harsh, but that is definitely my next step.

 

[slfcaptain]

I didnt see that warning on dr tims. Can you point me to where it says that? I am thinking about buying and using it as a bacteria booster.

steve

 

[Fishdad1]

Sorry its not the Dr. Tims website but it talks about using it in conjunction with Dr Tim's Refresh... for what ever reason they recommend removing inverts when using them together to battle dinos. It may only have to do with the refresh product.

https://www.aquaticsbeyond.com/resources/entry/solution-for-dinoflagellate-outbreak-in-reef-aquarium

 

[slfcaptain]

Ok. I have cyano and I am considering using just the waste away to boost the BB.

steve

 

[whippetguy]

I've used Waste Away solely and had no trouble with inverts. I'm thinking it must be the combo as well, that suggests invert removal.

 

[slfcaptain]

There are lots of warnings about using more than one at a time.

steve

 

[Fishdad1]

I wonder if carbon or GFO will have any impact on the effectiveness of the H2O2? Can't really find anything on the web.

 

[Fishdad1]

By the way, incase anyone was wondering I am dosing 1ml per 10g. Zoas and GSP close up almost immediately but fully reopen after a few minutes. No other corals seem to be affected, fish and inverts appear normal too.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Several times you've referred to dinoflagellates as algae. They are actually protists. I assume this is just a slip since you state you have studied them extensively. Dinos in aquaria most often encyst in detritus in the substrate. Blowing them around with a turkey baster is counterproductive. Syphon them out while they are in full bloom and they will help you to remove them along with the detritus that is fueling their reproduction. Full bloom is the middle of the light cycle. During the later part of the light cycle they are actually encysting and reproducing.

It is also a misconception the dinos cause the red in red tide. Red tide is caused by pollution in coastal saltwater. The red color actually comes from an alga that blooms along with the fish-killing dinoflagellates in those unnaturally enriched waters.

 

[Mike Johnson]

I read this entire thread and nowhere did I see what your pH level is. One common thing in beating dinos is a raised pH to 8.4.

Also I read that you stated that Red Tide is a mystery to scientists. Not true, it is known it is caused from storm water runoff and sewage - directly linked.

I hate to give a generic reply to your terrible problem, but raising your pH to 8.4, using carbon, syphoning out all the dinos during full bloom, and water changes will go a long way in your tanks recovery. And using a filter sock, changed nightly.