TB's 67g custom project
- Thread starter Tigahboy
- Start date
KimPossible
Well-Known Member
WOW TB! It's lookin good!
Tigahboy
Active Member
thanks for the comments, everyone! I've decided to have a separate (not shared) return pump for my prop tank component of my custom project; but of course both the prop tank and 67g will share the same sump/fuge tank. Just easier for me to do it this way b/c I can run the prop tank ahead of time (prop + sump/fuge) w/ the contents of my current 30g and nanocube 6, while letting the 67g tank (circulation to be maintained by closed loop alone) cycle for a good few months on its own before I decide to add anything.
Then down the road, with a simple twist of a ball valve here and there, all 3 components will become one.
Well...that's the plan for now at least. my plans keep changing (thus the dozen or so trips to home depot to reconfigure my pvc plumbing), so who knows how it will end up.
Then down the road, with a simple twist of a ball valve here and there, all 3 components will become one.
Well...that's the plan for now at least. my plans keep changing (thus the dozen or so trips to home depot to reconfigure my pvc plumbing), so who knows how it will end up.
Tigahboy
Active Member
I also finished the dry-fitting (and some pvc cementing) of my prop tank plumbing.
I left the manifold/return line out of the pic for clarity. But I just wanted to share my overflow/drain plumbing configuration w/ y'all.
So first water will flow thru my durso standpipe. which actually runs very quiet. I just assumed I would've needed to fiddle w/ the hole size at least, but it worked out great when I did a test-run w/ water.
Then down and under the tank
Swings to the left on its way to the sump/fuge - ball valve to shut off overflow if necessary and plenty of pvc unions for quick disconnects.
Then it curves away from door and makes a 90 degree turn into the sump/fuge (I'm planning on changing this to a 45 degree turn tho after I make another home depot trip)
Then some of the flow (a small amount) will go thru this first ball valve into the fuge section.
Then the rest of the flow (the majority of the flow) will go thru the second ball valve straight into the skimmer intake section.
And usually this last ball valve will be in the 'off' position, but when I need to do a water change, I'll simply turn the skimmer section ball valve to the 'off' position and open up this third ball valve to take out water from the overall 67+prop set-up via a bucket.
I'll take pics of the return/manifold plumbing tomorrow
I left the manifold/return line out of the pic for clarity. But I just wanted to share my overflow/drain plumbing configuration w/ y'all.
So first water will flow thru my durso standpipe. which actually runs very quiet. I just assumed I would've needed to fiddle w/ the hole size at least, but it worked out great when I did a test-run w/ water.
Then down and under the tank
Swings to the left on its way to the sump/fuge - ball valve to shut off overflow if necessary and plenty of pvc unions for quick disconnects.
Then it curves away from door and makes a 90 degree turn into the sump/fuge (I'm planning on changing this to a 45 degree turn tho after I make another home depot trip)
Then some of the flow (a small amount) will go thru this first ball valve into the fuge section.
Then the rest of the flow (the majority of the flow) will go thru the second ball valve straight into the skimmer intake section.
And usually this last ball valve will be in the 'off' position, but when I need to do a water change, I'll simply turn the skimmer section ball valve to the 'off' position and open up this third ball valve to take out water from the overall 67+prop set-up via a bucket.
I'll take pics of the return/manifold plumbing tomorrow
Maxx
Well-Known Member
TB,
Good work on the plumbing...looks like it took alot of planning. Just a thought for soggy floors..
Home Depot and Lowes both sell a Water alarm by watchdog....think fire alarm (120 decibels) but for water. It works on a 9 volt battery goes off when water, (or your finger in order to test it) connects the circuit between two metal discs on the bottom of the alarm. It only costs about 10.00...should be in the basement sump pump section of the store..
That way you get an immediate response to leaks.....
Nick
Good work on the plumbing...looks like it took alot of planning. Just a thought for soggy floors..
Home Depot and Lowes both sell a Water alarm by watchdog....think fire alarm (120 decibels) but for water. It works on a 9 volt battery goes off when water, (or your finger in order to test it) connects the circuit between two metal discs on the bottom of the alarm. It only costs about 10.00...should be in the basement sump pump section of the store..
That way you get an immediate response to leaks.....
Nick
mikej11
Member
Great plumbing Tigah. This looks a lot like a swimming pool filter system. This will work great for water changes. You could hook up a bucket or container for your new saltwater (water changes) inline with your sump plumbing or where ever you want your new water to go. This container would have a ball valve on it, so it could drain into the plumbing.
Mike J.
Mike J.
Tigahboy
Active Member
Max - good stuff! I didn't even know that existed. I'll definitely pick one up on my next trip to Home Depot (which has become virtually a daily ritual now).
Mike - that's funny you say that b/c I don't know what a pool filter set-up looks like, but I was taking some advice from a guy who works on pools. haha.
Mike - that's funny you say that b/c I don't know what a pool filter set-up looks like, but I was taking some advice from a guy who works on pools. haha.
Tigahboy, you are not afraid to plumb are ya! 
KimPossible
Well-Known Member
Looks real good Tigah. Very clean!