Ro water a Snobish ideal ???????????????????????

RO unit necessary or not !!!!!!!!!!

  • absolutely yes

    Votes: 43 56.6%
  • Not at all

    Votes: 2 2.6%
  • its better but not necessary

    Votes: 26 34.2%
  • i use tap water all the time no problem

    Votes: 5 6.6%

  • Total voters
    76
  • Poll closed .

cindyp

Active Member
I agree its really all about the animals! gees I was upset for 4days after my beta died. I dont know how old he was when I got him but he lived a year and a half with me .when we went on vacation we had a small to go bowl for him so he went with us it may seem silly to some people but we bought a 35 ft motorhome just so our dogs would never need to go to a kennel. so we love our pets we have 3 dogs 9 cichlids and 2 reef tank full of little dependants. now I'm just tring to figure out how to take the tanks in the RV...LOL:scram:
 
I voted for better but not necessary. I use tap well water for top offs and dont have any problems so far with spikes in anything so that is why I voted for that answer. As for water changes I buy my salt water from the LFS. Dont get me wrong I would LOVE to have an RO system but at this point my funds dont really allow me to have one. Just figured I would give my thoughts on the subject and I really like to vote in the polls.....
 

Clownfish518

Razorback
PREMIUM
I don't think it matters at all where you live. I think you get more contaminants in your tank from dust and pet hair and the like than is in your tap water.

I use RO water so that I get a consistent, known product. That's why people use certain salt brands, they mix up consistently. If you use tap water, you will get variations in how it mixes. Why roll the dice? In the long haul, RO is cheap
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
After watching the video and reading this thread I'd like to make the following points.

The use of tap water may be fine, if, and this is a very big if, you have very high quality tap water to start with. It has been my experience that most of us do not have such high quality water. This means we need RO/DI water or equivalent to get decent results. In other words, we what to control or prevent algae blooms, and we want to maintain the highest possible water quality for corals.

In my personal experience, I found that while the town I was in had good quality tap water, by drinking standards, and even by FW aquarium standards, it came up short when using it for a SW reef system. Switching to RO water made a quantum improvement in the system. Not that this was just RO water, not RO/DI and that this was a very early reef system.

I'll leave it to each individual to decide if they need RO/DI water or not. However, I would highly recommend it's use.

The other point where I take issue with the videos is that by the guys on admission he's never used a refractometer, and furthermore can't explain how it works, and also doesn't even get the price correct. In other words, he tells us that he's got no idea what he's talking about and then goes on to give his opinion. In my opinion, as soon as he did that he completely destroys his credibility.

Again, my personal experience. I used the glass floating hydrometers for years, and had also used the swing arm types for years. Once I got a refractometer, I found that I finally got accurate readings, and could toss all the other junk. I also found that a refractometer can also be used to test many different small amounts of water. This is real nice when you get a large box of corals, and you need to do know where you stand. I know I have to spend a lot longer on the acclimation process if the SG difference is .005 than I do if it's only .001.

Keep in mind that a slightly different density makes a big different in readings such as calcium and magnesium. For example, if your water is off by .002, reading 1.023 instead of 1.025 you are off by 8%. This means that that your calcium reading will be skewed by a similar amount. in other words, assuming you would normal want a reading of 400 at 1.025, your reading at 1.023 reading would only be about 370. You really would not want to supplement calcium, when your real problem is SG.

I would consider a refractometer a very nice thing to have, but not critical.

Bottom line, I do not feel the money spent by the original poster was waisted.

In addition, if the original poster still does feel his money was wasted, he still learned a valuable lesson. That is, do your research on the product before you spend your money. Also, be somewhat glad it was only on a $100 or so RO unit, which can always be resold, and not on something extremely expensive, such as a new lighting fixture, or that big investment that was going to make your rich overnight.
 

Frankie

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
I see a lot of words have been used already in this thread so I will just say one: ABSOLUTELY! I DON'T CARE WHO YOU ARE, OR WHERE YOU LIVE, YOU MUST USE RO/DI FOR A REEF AQUARIUM.
OK, 17 words then~
 

yungreefer2410

Well-Known Member
this is all i have to say. ro/di is a must for a reef tank. why blow lots of $$ because you didn't buy a 100-200 piece of equipment? better safe then sorry esp in a reef tank.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
I have to add that I think it's a bit unfair to make blanket statements to the effect that RO water is a must for a reef system. While this is true for the vast majority of people, there are some that have extremely good tap water. Others have access to good quality ocean water. While rare, there are people that just don't need it.
 

jared

Member
When I first got in the hobby I never used anything but tap water through my brita pitcher. I never had any quality or algae problems. When I moved to new jersey the tap water I used I had outbreaks of cyano and hair algae continuously. I moved back to Michigan no more cyano outbreak.

In my new tank I am using ro water just to be safe. It's 30 cents a gallon so it's cheap enough to notbreak the bank
 

Frankie

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
I have to add that I think it's a bit unfair to make blanket statements to the effect that RO water is a must for a reef system. While this is true for the vast majority of people, there are some that have extremely good tap water. Others have access to good quality ocean water. While rare, there are people that just don't need it.
Not unfair at all Dave. If your tap water is coming out 0ppm I still think you need to have an RO/DI. I have read threads that a tank crashed due to main breaks, sewage getting into the water feeds and all kinds of errors man is famous for.
It is just safer keeping a unit between tap water and your reef.
As for the people using ocean water, that is a whole other argument that has nothing to do with this topic.
I see RO/DI units for a reef like I see firewalls for a PC. It is a must have these days.
 

mps9506

Well-Known Member
As for the people using ocean water, that is a whole other argument that has nothing to do with this topic.

I'll go there, I've used filtered natural seawater, and will use it on my next tank, I still use RO/DI for topoffs :D
:bluenod:
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
.
I see RO/DI units for a reef like I see firewalls for a PC. It is a must have these days.

Great analogy friend. Very true indeed.

I know back there at some point "price" was an issue. In the "big Picture" the cost of buying and keeping an Ro/DI unit is nothing compared to rebuilding a crashed Reef Tank. Just go and ask a couple of members who lost the whole reef lately (not necessarily due to RO/DI but a crash none the less) how much it HURT, how much it cost and what a PAIN it is to do. Why not make the small investment in another "layer of protection".

This is my last post on this one (unless it gets UGLY). I'm going to leave this "Dead Horse" for the crabs now :)

Play nice :D
 

Luukosian

Well-Known Member
Enjoyed reading this thread so thought I would chime in.

If I didn't use an ro/di I think I would have a tendency to blame any problem on my tap. Whether it be a dead fish, bleaching coral(not trying to jinx anything...my tank is doing great).....In the back of my mind I would question the tap even if that wasn't the problem. Just thought I would bring it up to try and not run in circles here, that, and whenever I have a freshwater fish that dies close to a water change(old age, ect.) I always wonder if the tap got contaminated somehow.

tap for 4 freshwater tanks(one including sensitive shrimp)

ro/di for reef


tap: 160tds 10ppm nitrate kh3 ph 7.4(all I've measured)
 

BWI

Member
Great analogy friend. Very true indeed.

I know back there at some point "price" was an issue. In the "big Picture" the cost of buying and keeping an Ro/DI unit is nothing compared to rebuilding a crashed Reef Tank. Just go and ask a couple of members who lost the whole reef lately (not necessarily due to RO/DI but a crash none the less) how much it HURT, how much it cost and what a PAIN it is to do. Why not make the small investment in another "layer of protection".

This is my last post on this one (unless it gets UGLY). I'm going to leave this "Dead Horse" for the crabs now :)

Play nice :D


agreed 100% :bluenod:
 

Basile

Well-Known Member
Well, when your wrong your wrong , i was wrong! I Checked with the guy in the video and most of his tanks are indeed fish tanks with Artificial reefs in it. So the fact that he uses " his method" can't be a refference for my purpouse. So i'll keep my Ro unit . My appology for opening my big mouth!:surrender:

Sorry for the snobish term as well:brothawolf: i know thats where i'm going.
 

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
RS STAFF
Well, when your wrong your wrong , i was wrong! I Checked with the guy in the video and most of his tanks are indeed fish tanks with Artificial reefs in it. So the fact that he uses " his method" can't be a refference for my purpouse. So i'll keep my Ro unit . My appology for opening my big mouth!:surrender:

Sorry for the snobish term as well:brothawolf: i know thats where i'm going.


:thumber: :hug1:
 
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