Replacing Noisy Hood Fan RSM 130D

Frakke

New Member
I tried cutting it out but the fan would not work unless all 3 cables were connected

i did it today with the same fans and i don't need the left cable only two!
I placed 3 fans

Followed this guide and delighted with the noise reduction. thanks for the effort
 

slfcaptain

Active Member
i did it today with the same fans and i don't need the left cable only two!
I placed 3 fans

Followed this guide and delighted with the noise reduction. thanks for the effort

How did you know which one wasn't needed? Trial and error or are they color coded?

I am going to order the gelid fans and give it a go. They are 20% off right now.

steve
 

NJ Reefer

Active Member
PREMIUM
I replaced my cooling fans with these same gelid fans. Took a bit of finagling and some soldering, but I was able to squeeze them in. At first they were noisier because I believe something was rubbing, but it worked itself out and is much quieter than the stock fans.

I also added a 3rd gelid fan on the left side of the T5s (there is space on both sides to add a 3rd fan). This one unfortunately started quiet, but is now quite loud. I have dreaded the thought of taking the hood apart again to fix it, but I will be adding Steve's moonlights soon, and will have it apart anyway. Hopefully a replacement fan will solve the noise issue.
 

NJ Reefer

Active Member
PREMIUM
I should have been more clear. When I said "cooling fans" I meant to say "water cooling fans". I slid the stock fans out of the case and replace with the silent fans. They were very tight going in, and I had to remove some plastic from the side of the fan where the wires extend from, so that the wires would lay flat. I used a dremel to carve the slot. Without doing this, the fans would not go back in the case properly.
 

slfcaptain

Active Member
i did it today with the same fans and i don't need the left cable only two!
I placed 3 fans

Followed this guide and delighted with the noise reduction. thanks for the effort

Franke, I am going to do this mod later today. Can you tell me which wires you connected? Was it trial and error? Hopefully you see this before I start.

Thanks,

steve
 

Davidfx

Member
Did mine today so thought I would post a few pics and advice for any more of you doing this to their Red Sea Max 130D.

I used 2 x Fractal Design 50mm Cooling fans rated at 20dB. The good thing about these fans is that they have a nice long lead and a braided sleeve to protect and help route the cables.


IMAG0988 by David FXS, on Flickr

As most have found, the 50mm computer fans are slightly to big and need to be thinned down slightly. If you push them in as they are they will be noisy as the fan casing is being squashed. I thinned them down this using a flat file on a table and gently sanding the fan back and forth over the file.


IMAG0990_BURST002 by David FXS, on Flickr

You can see how much material I removed on the left to get them to fit well.


IMAG0992 by David FXS, on Flickr

As the leads were long enough I did not need to splice into the existing fan cables and could wire the Red and Black cables directly into the 12V connector block on the board and cut of the Yellow.


IMAG0993 by David FXS, on Flickr


IMAG0996 by David FXS, on Flickr

Another shot of the cable routing and also you can see the existing loom still encase you ever want to return to stock.


IMAG0998 by David FXS, on Flickr


Initially on Start up I didn't think they had made much difference in the quiet room with the pumps off. Now tonight with all the normal family life around, I actually can't hear the tank and I'm over the moon with the improvement.
 

ziggy

Active Member
just for a quick referance... every 3 Decibel increase doubles the original power value.
So a noise level of 53 db is double the noise of a 50db fan.
A 56db value is double the amount of a 53db value... and so on
 

judojay

Member
I have just bought the Gelids but all the wires are black... arhhh
ebypyty7.jpg


Essex reef keeper
 

slfcaptain

Active Member
You got the silent 5 gelid with the three wire connector.

If you look carefully at the connector you'll see an arrow on it, that is negative. The middle is positive, the third is tach (essentially a speed sensor) you dont need it. I'll see if I have a photo and post it.



steve
 

slfcaptain

Active Member
This is the best photo I have.



I spliced the male end of a fan extension cable into the hood. You can see positive is in the center and black wire lines up with the arrow when connected.

I also wrapped one layer of electrical tape around the fan. Without the tape the fan rattled, with the tape it fit nice and snug.

steve
 

clearnet

Member
I would like to change the back cooling fan but dont seem to be able to remove the old fan. I dont want to break anything and wondering if anyone can tell me how the rear cooling fan can be removed?
 

slfcaptain

Active Member
On the back cooling fan of th 130 there are tabs on each side that need to be pushed in to get the fan out. The tabs are stiff so you have to use a bit of force.

steve
 

clearnet

Member
On the back cooling fan of th 130 there are tabs on each side that need to be pushed in to get the fan out. The tabs are stiff so you have to use a bit of force.

steve

I see. Thanks Steve.

Regarding the two lighting fan, my two replacement fans are 5mm thinner than the OEM and they are actually a little loose when I slip them into the two slots as well. I used electrician tape to secure them but I am hearing a little bit of rattling now. I am thinking of applying silicon around the edge of the fan so that they can sit snug in the slots. Is this a good solution? I am concerned that the heat may cause the silicon to melt a little, perhaps there are other methods I can secure the fans?
 
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