Greg has a chart but what you are testing to see is in this order:
1. Ammonia rises & begin to fall
2. Nitrites rise, then begin to fall
3. Nitrates start to rise as nitrites decrease.
BOTH ammonia & nitrite should ZERO out & stay ZERO.
At this time your Nitrates could be fairly HIGH.
This is when you do a large water change (WC) as this is what brings them down.
You want Your Nitrates to be around 5ppm to 10ppm.
If they stay higher than that....another WC will be needed.
Then is when most add their 1st CUC to the tank followed in a week or 2 by the 1st fish & coral. (If you are adding any coral) Adding only 1 fish (or a pair if they intend to be a bonding pair) per month after the cycle is a good way to make sure your tank can handle the bioload. ADD FISH SLOWLY...several at a time can cause an ammonia spike.
Edit: I didn't know Zig already posted about the same thing
1. Ammonia rises & begin to fall
2. Nitrites rise, then begin to fall
3. Nitrates start to rise as nitrites decrease.
BOTH ammonia & nitrite should ZERO out & stay ZERO.
At this time your Nitrates could be fairly HIGH.
This is when you do a large water change (WC) as this is what brings them down.
You want Your Nitrates to be around 5ppm to 10ppm.
If they stay higher than that....another WC will be needed.
Then is when most add their 1st CUC to the tank followed in a week or 2 by the 1st fish & coral. (If you are adding any coral) Adding only 1 fish (or a pair if they intend to be a bonding pair) per month after the cycle is a good way to make sure your tank can handle the bioload. ADD FISH SLOWLY...several at a time can cause an ammonia spike.
Edit: I didn't know Zig already posted about the same thing