Michelle’s 110 Upgrade!

squidy

Member
Ok, I have posted various thread with questions regarding lighting and plumbing for my 110 gallon upgrade. I figured now is a good time to start a thread tracking the process. My current tank is a 45 gal corner tank I have had running for about a year now. I purchased my 110 on Craigslist for $90. Tank measures 48”L x 31”T x 18”W.

Plumbing: The tank is predrilled with two 1 ¾” holes in the bottom on center. I will be using 1” bulkheads and PVC routed to the sump and ¾” return which will be routed up the back of the tank. The size and placement of the holes has been a challenge in planning my plumbing, but I want to maximize overall flow. Using the Head Loss Calculators, I am thinking a Mag 12 or Mag 18 for a return pump should put me at about 800-900 gph return and with a total of 2” of drain from the overflow should accommodate.

Lighting: After discussing lighting options with fellow RS members, I have decided to get a 48” 2x250MH with T5’s. This will put me in the 700+ watt range allowing me to keep just about anything I want. I have not purchased the light yet though.

Stand: I started the stand last night. Measures 36 ½”T x 50”L x 20”W. I reused 2x4’s we had from our basement demo. For all you construction people out there, this is a LEED certified project, lol. Keepin it green! Here are a few pictures of the stand frame. I wanted to maximize my door openings for maintenance, so I doubled two 2x4’s as beams that run across the top transferring the load down the doubled up sides. The sides were built to minimize the risk of racking or movement. I will also be adding metal “L” brackets which will attach on the bottom inside to both the sides and the bottom 2x4’s for added strength. There will be 2 euro style doors without a middle style. I am going to skin the cabinet with ½” birch and eventually paint using a black marine grade paint.

Sump: Also not purchased yet. I do have a 29 gal I could use for the sump. The stand is built tall so the middle of the tank will be at eye level so I would have plenty of room to access a 29 (I know a common problem with using 29g for sumps is the height). What do you guys think? This would give me room for an external skimmer and top-off.

Ok, so in conclusion, this is where Im at so far. I plan to finish the stand this weekend and prep for painting. Please feel free to add any advise or concerns as this is my first time going at this from scratch.
 

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reef dummy

Member
Nice looking build, I recently upgraded a 46 to 120. The lights you are ordering will do well on a 110. I have 2x250w mh's on my 120 and everything is growing like crazy. Good luck, keep posting pics!
 

squidy

Member
Ok, I ended up going with a CoraLife 2-175 watt HQI 14k bulbs,2- Actinic 96 watt 32" and 4 Moonlights. I got the light for $250 and plan to upgrade the ballast to a Galaxy in a few months. The $250 included shipping so I couldnt pass up on the price.
As for the cabinet, I got the 2 end panels built. The front will have 2 doors without a middle style. This should allow plenty of room for maintaining the sump and ATO. This weekend I am going to tanlk to Sherwin Williams about their marine grade paint.
 

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BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
It's looking GREAT! Sounds like a SWEET light fixture you're getting :D

Are you doing this build yourself? I mean you're physically doing the build/work/construction yourself?

For all you construction people out there, this is a LEED certified project, lol. Keepin it green!
LOL! This comment totally cracked me up! I can see the headlines now
"First certified LEED tank build in St. Louis MO!"

There's nothing wrong with "Keeping it GREEN" for sure. Great work and keep those pics rolling!
 

squidy

Member
LOL AL!!!! What, because Im little and a girl I cant build a box? Ill have you know I worked in a cabinet shop building cabinets and worked my way up to commercial construction. Kinda miss the cabinet shop though. Didn’t have to deal with all the headaches that come with commercial construction. Oh well, grass is always greener……right.
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
Girls can't build... everyone knows that :D

LOL!!

Yes the grass (even SeaGrass) is always greener in someone elses lagoon. What I've learned is grass is grass. Greener or not it sill gives me heartburn if it's not out of my own yard :)
 

squidy

Member
Ok, guys. I have a sump flow question. What is the ideal flow rate for a sump with a fuge? Looks like I will have about 750-850gph flow. Should I design my sump so the fuge doesnt get full flow or do you guys think it will be fine? I want to keep magro algae and pods.
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
All I cna do is tell you what works in "Allen's Tank".

I've got approximately 1300 gph going into the sump but only about 150gph going into the fuge. I have no "stagnant" areas like some others mention where Cyano grows in my fuge but I may just be really lucky. I like to have about 1/10th of the tank flow going into the fuge.
 

squidy

Member
Ok, so I think Ill stick with the original plan of fuge on the far right fed by a "T" coming off the drain line or the return line (not sure yet). Im worried having the fuge fed from the return line will reduce pressure too much. Anyways, middle will contain return pump and far left will be intake and skimmer.
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
Ok, so I think Ill stick with the original plan of fuge on the far right fed by a "T" coming off the drain line or the return line (not sure yet). Im worried having the fuge fed from the return line will reduce pressure too much. Anyways, middle will contain return pump and far left will be intake and skimmer.

That's how my system is set up. I have the DRAIN "T" off and have a ball-valve so I can adjust the flow if needed.
 

squidy

Member
Ok, after downloading Google SketchUp and several hours of colorful language, I came up with this. Inlet plumbing is 1 ½” pvc and return is 1”. I have not purchased a pump yet so that may change to ¾”. The fuge is on the right, return in the middle, and inlet on the left. This is a mock up of a 29g sump. I am also thinking about using a HOB skimmer due to space issues in the sump. Any advice or comments are greatly appreciated.

I just noticed that the big valve on the inlet needs to be moved to the vertical pipe.
 

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squidy

Member
I just wanted to post an update on the build of my cabinet. I worked on the doors last night. They still need to be belt sanded (I HATE belt sanding) and drilled for the hidden hinges. I am using poplar and all the material is cut from scrap, some was left over from a jobsite and already painted white. So far I have not spent a penny on this project, woo hoo! Each door measures 20 ¼” x 27” T.

My light should be delivered today via UPS. I will post pictures once it gets here.
 

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squidy

Member
Thanks Allen. Oh btw, that AquaController Jr. is the shiz nit!!! I am SO putting one of those on my x-mas list.
 

squidy

Member
So after reading BigAl’s 90g chronicle, I am going to re-design my sump plan. The 29g will not give enough room for an adequate fuge. I will run a separate fuge that will be located either above or next to the sump in the cabinet. Thinking I might want my ATO to gravity feed the sump so Im still trying to figure out where those will all fit.
 
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