Garage1217
Member
Because you only need to see in the front of each of those 3 tanks as they are the sump, ATO tank and QT. Also the black back and sides hide all electrical for a clean look.
Garage1217's 225G starphire build of pure awesomesauce
- Thread starter Garage1217
- Start date
Because you only need to see in the front of each of those 3 tanks as they are the sump, ATO tank and QT. Also the black back and sides hide all electrical for a clean look.
Garage1217
Member
I highly doubt any manufacturer could make a eurobrace this large in one piece. Also from an engineering standpoint, it would need joints in order to flex a tiny amount. One large piece would be highly susceptible to cracking under load.
Thank you very much!!!
Garage1217
Member
Now some can see why I painted the 3 sides of each tank. Makes for a clean look. For the last few days, I have been working on the basic electrical systems. Basically everything but the lighting portions.
- The 4 modified koralia k4's are in place in the display and wired
- My advanced ATO system is installed and wired "it is the sensor assembly in the black box in the sump"
- Ca reactor is wired
- Return pump and skimmer are wired
- All sensors including ph, ca ph and temp are wired
- The QT system consisting of 9w UV, K1, Aquaclear mini & 50W jager is wired
- The basics of the Neptune Systems apex have been wired
- The 4 jager 150w heaters are wired. Still deciding on the final multi controller system for them so this may change
- Stand lighting is wired
Pretty much sums it up for now. Will start plumbing soon. I did get the return lines in the tank with lock line & flairs / overflow system plumbed as well as drains in the tank / overflow. And of course all bulkheads are installed ready to go.
Now for some pics of what is done so far. Forgive the dust / fingerprints and so forth as I have not had time to tidy up.
The pc case with lighting power supplies will be put where the silver breadbox is "it holds a lot of my test kits and so forth" Still have to put a door on this stand but it worked out great for a $17 walmart TV stand hahaha!!!
- The 4 modified koralia k4's are in place in the display and wired
- My advanced ATO system is installed and wired "it is the sensor assembly in the black box in the sump"
- Ca reactor is wired
- Return pump and skimmer are wired
- All sensors including ph, ca ph and temp are wired
- The QT system consisting of 9w UV, K1, Aquaclear mini & 50W jager is wired
- The basics of the Neptune Systems apex have been wired
- The 4 jager 150w heaters are wired. Still deciding on the final multi controller system for them so this may change
- Stand lighting is wired
Pretty much sums it up for now. Will start plumbing soon. I did get the return lines in the tank with lock line & flairs / overflow system plumbed as well as drains in the tank / overflow. And of course all bulkheads are installed ready to go.
Now for some pics of what is done so far. Forgive the dust / fingerprints and so forth as I have not had time to tidy up.
The pc case with lighting power supplies will be put where the silver breadbox is "it holds a lot of my test kits and so forth" Still have to put a door on this stand but it worked out great for a $17 walmart TV stand hahaha!!!
Garage1217
Member
Thanks. Going to try to work on plumbing over the next few days.
Garage1217
Member
I am back!!!! From the DEAD! Haha. Seriously been slammed at work and with other projects so had to leave my reef project sit for awhile. Now that some things have cooled down, I am back at it! Just knocked out some plumbing today 
Still quite a bit to go but got the major parts finished! Some spy shots...
Feel free to ask questions if you do not know what the heck is going on with the pipe dream More to come plumbing wise in the next week or so. Need to finalize it and my ATS system. By then, the rest of the detail parts should arrive for my custom lights. Once those are banged out... will be close to filling time! Not in a rush on this project, just want it right and the way I want it the first time!!!
And yes, everything is hard plumbed a this point, no cheating with spa-flex haha.
Still quite a bit to go but got the major parts finished! Some spy shots...
Feel free to ask questions if you do not know what the heck is going on with the pipe dream
More to come plumbing wise in the next week or so. Need to finalize it and my ATS system. By then, the rest of the detail parts should arrive for my custom lights. Once those are banged out... will be close to filling time! Not in a rush on this project, just want it right and the way I want it the first time!!!And yes, everything is hard plumbed a this point, no cheating with spa-flex haha.
Gasturbineguy
Member
From an industrial engineering perspective... that plumb job is damn proper. Really nice work!
Garage1217
Member
Appreciate it! Always good to receive some feedback after a day of smelling red hot blue glue haha.
Garage1217
Member
Ahhhh.... what is this? Please ignore all the plumbing supplies all over the floor haha! Just pay attention to the middle of the floor
- 3 DIY Avast engineering MR5 media reactors
- Custom CA-1 calcium reactor! Reactor body is 6x18" and is perfect for the 225!
This weekend is going to be busy that is for sure! I am about finished with the light fixture build, heatsinks are being anodized and TONS of pics to come. Stay tuned!
- 3 DIY Avast engineering MR5 media reactors
- Custom CA-1 calcium reactor! Reactor body is 6x18" and is perfect for the 225!
This weekend is going to be busy that is for sure! I am about finished with the light fixture build, heatsinks are being anodized and TONS of pics to come. Stay tuned!
Garage1217
Member
Ok lets start off with the build list / bom for my light lifting machine of DOOM. Will it work? I say YES. Why? because I want it to. Time will tell however as I built all this in my head the other night haha. With some power shopping, you can probably build something like this for cheaper than I.
- Motor... One kick butt high torque window / wiper motor from robot market place! I choose a butt kicking window motor for the torque and metal gear box. Also motors like this have extreme holding power when off which means it will not go in reverse from the weight and let the light lower. Picture trying to pull down a car window.. yeah does not happen unless your car really sucks
Robot MarketPlace - AME 218-series 12V 212 in-lb LH gearmotor - stubby shaft
Next up! I need GEARS. I am going with a 15 tooth sprocket for #25 chain which will be drilled out and placed onto the kick butt window motor. I chose a 3/8 bore sprocket, however the wiper motor shaft is larger. Will get to drill out the sprocket for it to fit the motor shaft
Robot MarketPlace - Sprockets
Now the 15 tooth sprocket on the motor will be driving a 30 tooth sprocket with 5/8 keyed bore also located at this link... This will reduce the speed of the pulley shaft by 1/2. Not going to bother to get into the fancy numbers but the basics are the 116 peak rpm motor will be reduced down to around 58rpm at the pulleys.
That 30 tooth sprocket is going to attach to this 36" steel keyed shaft which will hold the pulleys that will draw the cables up which will be attached to the light, thus lifting it in all of its LED glory!....
5/8" X 36" Keyed Shaft
The shaft itself is going to be supported by these pillow bearings.... I plan for the whole motor assembly to be mounted in the attic, so all you will see is the cables coming out of the drywall. You could however mount this thing upside down and hang it from the roof like some other builds have their lifters.. However not... what I want to do.
5/8" High Centerheight Pillow Block Bearing UCPH202-10
Now you sort of get how this is going to work.... maybe. Next up, how I am going to make CHEAP pulleys for each cable! Each side of each cable pulley "2 in total" will be one of these shaft collars...
Robot MarketPlace - Shaft Collars
On the inside of each shaft collar will be a frame washer which will act as the sides of the pulley guides "pics soon to come" So the 5/8" shaft will end up being the pulley with the collars and washers attached! Since the shaft is 5/8", that makes for around 2" circumference. With the shaft turning at a max of around 60rpm, it will give a max lift of around 120 inches per minute "yes I rounded the numbers"
Now, since I like complicating things a little, I wanted very, very smooth lift and lowering ability. So instead of an On / Off switch to raise and lower the unit, I incorporated a bi-directional speed control so the actual rate of lift will depend on how far I crank the knob. This will make lift and lowering glass smooth... in theory The speed control I chose is located here... You will see it is only rated for 5amp, but the mods I do later should give it the ability to handle over 49a for very short periods of time. I do not expect anything close to this however. And of course there will be an on/off safety switch.
Bidirectional DC Motor Speed Controller Electronic Kit
Now, how do I power this thing? I need to send 12VDC to the speed control so I need a cheap power supply capable supplying a decent amount of current. So I found this cheap unit on the ebay machine rated at 30a
12V 30A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply For CCTV - eBay (item 170595276354 end time Feb-24-11 17:37:21 PST)
Now, you technical heads may be getting the picture if the evil machine that I plan to build to raise my large and rather heavy light assembly.
- Motor... One kick butt high torque window / wiper motor from robot market place! I choose a butt kicking window motor for the torque and metal gear box. Also motors like this have extreme holding power when off which means it will not go in reverse from the weight and let the light lower. Picture trying to pull down a car window.. yeah does not happen unless your car really sucks
Robot MarketPlace - AME 218-series 12V 212 in-lb LH gearmotor - stubby shaft
Next up! I need GEARS. I am going with a 15 tooth sprocket for #25 chain which will be drilled out and placed onto the kick butt window motor. I chose a 3/8 bore sprocket, however the wiper motor shaft is larger. Will get to drill out the sprocket for it to fit the motor shaft
Robot MarketPlace - Sprockets
Now the 15 tooth sprocket on the motor will be driving a 30 tooth sprocket with 5/8 keyed bore also located at this link... This will reduce the speed of the pulley shaft by 1/2. Not going to bother to get into the fancy numbers but the basics are the 116 peak rpm motor will be reduced down to around 58rpm at the pulleys.
That 30 tooth sprocket is going to attach to this 36" steel keyed shaft which will hold the pulleys that will draw the cables up which will be attached to the light, thus lifting it in all of its LED glory!....
5/8" X 36" Keyed Shaft
The shaft itself is going to be supported by these pillow bearings.... I plan for the whole motor assembly to be mounted in the attic, so all you will see is the cables coming out of the drywall. You could however mount this thing upside down and hang it from the roof like some other builds have their lifters.. However not... what I want to do.
5/8" High Centerheight Pillow Block Bearing UCPH202-10
Now you sort of get how this is going to work.... maybe. Next up, how I am going to make CHEAP pulleys for each cable! Each side of each cable pulley "2 in total" will be one of these shaft collars...
Robot MarketPlace - Shaft Collars
On the inside of each shaft collar will be a frame washer which will act as the sides of the pulley guides "pics soon to come" So the 5/8" shaft will end up being the pulley with the collars and washers attached! Since the shaft is 5/8", that makes for around 2" circumference. With the shaft turning at a max of around 60rpm, it will give a max lift of around 120 inches per minute "yes I rounded the numbers"
Now, since I like complicating things a little, I wanted very, very smooth lift and lowering ability. So instead of an On / Off switch to raise and lower the unit, I incorporated a bi-directional speed control so the actual rate of lift will depend on how far I crank the knob. This will make lift and lowering glass smooth... in theory The speed control I chose is located here... You will see it is only rated for 5amp, but the mods I do later should give it the ability to handle over 49a for very short periods of time. I do not expect anything close to this however. And of course there will be an on/off safety switch.
Bidirectional DC Motor Speed Controller Electronic Kit
Now, how do I power this thing? I need to send 12VDC to the speed control so I need a cheap power supply capable supplying a decent amount of current. So I found this cheap unit on the ebay machine rated at 30a
12V 30A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply For CCTV - eBay (item 170595276354 end time Feb-24-11 17:37:21 PST)
Now, you technical heads may be getting the picture if the evil machine that I plan to build to raise my large and rather heavy light assembly.
TylerHaworth
Active Member
This is awesome so far, so neat and clean.