Hello everyone,
I have been working on a new tank for the last 3 months and am getting ready to set it up. So I thought I would start a thread on it for all to see and how it turns out in the end. (if there is an end)
First I must thank the people who have helped me get this far with it:
mike (MOJO) for all his knowledge with the cost to coast overflows and patients with the PM's I kept sending him. Nikki for letting me copy her ideas.lol. And Witfull for being such a good friend and helping me with plumbing idea's and tons of stuff I was able to get from his recent threads.
Ok, I took a used 120gal. tank I was given and drilled it full of holes. Two outputs for the closed loop and four returns. Two in the bottom for the overflows. The sump returns will go over the top. I used hayward bulkheads for all the holes. the outputs are drilled 2" and the returns and overflows are 1 1/2" holes. I am useing an ampmaster 3000 for the closed loop. The return splits off with a Y fitting with a PVC gate valve on the short side so I can fine tune the flow to the other side. There are no leaks from the tap water test I did the other day. I ran the closed loop for 6 hours. All was good.
The cost to coast overflows I made myself. I used 1/4" black acrylic for the corner boxes that I bent useing a heat gun to get a perfect 90` angel. the boxes are 4 1/2"x 5". For the trough I used a 1/4" piece of black acrylic for the face and a 1/2" piece for the bottom. I did that so the bottom would be strong and straight. I glued the trough to the overflow boxes useing IPS weld-on #3 solvent for joining acrylic. the whole thing is glued to the glass tank with a GE silicone thats made for industrial purposes. I know its risky but I made a custom durso pipe that I will talk about later for a fail safe, incase the overflows seperate one day.(though I dout it ever will) Well here's a pic for you all to see to start with. I'll get more with the plumbing and the stand frame over the weekend.
I have been working on a new tank for the last 3 months and am getting ready to set it up. So I thought I would start a thread on it for all to see and how it turns out in the end. (if there is an end)
First I must thank the people who have helped me get this far with it:
mike (MOJO) for all his knowledge with the cost to coast overflows and patients with the PM's I kept sending him. Nikki for letting me copy her ideas.lol. And Witfull for being such a good friend and helping me with plumbing idea's and tons of stuff I was able to get from his recent threads.
Ok, I took a used 120gal. tank I was given and drilled it full of holes. Two outputs for the closed loop and four returns. Two in the bottom for the overflows. The sump returns will go over the top. I used hayward bulkheads for all the holes. the outputs are drilled 2" and the returns and overflows are 1 1/2" holes. I am useing an ampmaster 3000 for the closed loop. The return splits off with a Y fitting with a PVC gate valve on the short side so I can fine tune the flow to the other side. There are no leaks from the tap water test I did the other day. I ran the closed loop for 6 hours. All was good.
The cost to coast overflows I made myself. I used 1/4" black acrylic for the corner boxes that I bent useing a heat gun to get a perfect 90` angel. the boxes are 4 1/2"x 5". For the trough I used a 1/4" piece of black acrylic for the face and a 1/2" piece for the bottom. I did that so the bottom would be strong and straight. I glued the trough to the overflow boxes useing IPS weld-on #3 solvent for joining acrylic. the whole thing is glued to the glass tank with a GE silicone thats made for industrial purposes. I know its risky but I made a custom durso pipe that I will talk about later for a fail safe, incase the overflows seperate one day.(though I dout it ever will) Well here's a pic for you all to see to start with. I'll get more with the plumbing and the stand frame over the weekend.
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