To answer your question... it all has to due with the state of your LR. As an example, if you were downgrading from a 100 gallon tank you had running for two years to a RSM 250 (66 gallon) and setup the new RSM 250, added ro/di, added salt, added new sand (not live) and moved say 75 pounds of Live Rock from your 100 gallon to you new 66 gallon tank.
You would not need to add a shrimp as an ammonia source to start the nitrogen cycle .
When establishing a new tank... with new LR from lsf or online retailer, it will be from uncured to cured with some die off & will "cycle" adding the shrimp only helps start the cycle.
Added another 20lbs of CaribSea Hawaiian Black to my tank today and my MP10 ES then restructured my aquascape. Up a little in salinity(.005)
but what I'm really worried about is the up in Temp about 2 degrees. Is the MP10 causing the rise in Temp?
I doubt it... the motor on the Vortechs is outside the tank... make sure you are running your rear cooling fan 7 x 24 & have the ambient temp of your home at 73F or below... this will keep a RSM around 81-83F
a small extract - Over all reefs, the average lowest temperature observed was 76.4°F, and the average highest temperature was 86.4°F. One way that these data could be interpreted would be to say that for most corals and coral reef animals, the best conditions would be between 76°F and 86°F, with the average being about 82°F.
imo - no one right to proceed with the lights (on or off) during the cycle
I always ran mine a few hours a day to enjoy rock watching & ramp up an hour or 2 more a week - as the start up algae going to run it course & with a hardy cuc snails it will pass - this also allows the good things on the LR some light, but others run lights out while the tank cycles - no one way or only one right way imo - with good husbandry and regular weekly maintenance both in the 1st few months end up at the same place
Ok. Shrimps been in for 4 days .I've been checking measurements every other day. What would You guys consider an ammonia spike? 2 days ago it went up to .50 ppm today it back down to .25. thats not the spike is ?
For me, my ammonia was maxed with my API test kit, then a few days later I started to get nitrite. As the nitrite climbed, the ammonia began to drop. Same thing then happened from nitrite to nitrate.
Shrimps almost gone. Brown algae on the dry rock and glass. Running the Tunze 9002 to break it in. When should I fill
the media basket? Will water changes affect cycling?
I also ran my Red Sea carbon that came with a new tank from the start & changed to the CPE & Purigen after the tank cycled & when I added livestock.
On Cycling - the Ammonia will raise then drop, followed by the Nitrites raising and then dropping, then the Nitrates will soar - once the ammonia & nitrites are gone, then do water changes to reduce nitrates.
When I started my tank 16 months ago I did not see a drop in alk or ca till I started to add sps's. Ca and alk are like building blocks for the sps's to grow there skeleton. If that link that Glenn put up is the one I think it is it is well worth reading.
This is where I am right now. Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 5, PH 8.2 & Temp 82 . So I went to my LFS and bought 2 Yellowtail Damsels. Maybe too soon but we'll see. Now my question is about the clean up crew I need. Who is the best or who do you like? I'm leaning toward Reefcleaners.