detailed chiller instalation
- Thread starter JOHNY
- Start date
+1 - Nice drawings Marty and Tom! Folks like you are a real help to all of us. If I ever need to use a chiller this type of information and explanations are priceless.
Nigma - HP is the horsepower rating on the chiller - an energy indicator of the cooling capacity (and often size as well). More HP = a larger chiller capable of cooling down a larger tank quicker, without the chiller having to stay on as long. The larger the tank the more HP is needed to be able to cool it.
I'm not sure what you mean by the holes in the cabinet? Both the 130 and 250 come with a good size opening in the back of the cabinets for chiller pipes/tubing and/or sump siphon/return pipes to pass through. If your talking about the openings on the back raised rim of the tank. the RSMs do come with those also, to allow chiller pipes to pass through. Some folks do, however, modify things to suit their needs, by cutting out sections of the back plastic lip.
I'm not sure what you mean by the holes in the cabinet? Both the 130 and 250 come with a good size opening in the back of the cabinets for chiller pipes/tubing and/or sump siphon/return pipes to pass through. If your talking about the openings on the back raised rim of the tank. the RSMs do come with those also, to allow chiller pipes to pass through. Some folks do, however, modify things to suit their needs, by cutting out sections of the back plastic lip.
tnwillia
Well-Known Member
Hey Johny... If your talking about the "L" That is how I went from the accessory port straight into the display tank using the hole designed for the right side pump, I removed that pump. This is my chiller return back into the tank. Good Luck!
Nigma... You should not have to drill holes for anything. The cabinet is designed for what RS calls good thru flow air. If you look at the 250 mod thread towards the first I think 1 or more people show their chiller in the cabinet. Depending on the size it may still get hot in there and heat your tank. RS also makes a large flow fan designed to be mounted on the back of the cabinet. You can see this in accessories on their web site. Good luck with your tank!
Nigma... You should not have to drill holes for anything. The cabinet is designed for what RS calls good thru flow air. If you look at the 250 mod thread towards the first I think 1 or more people show their chiller in the cabinet. Depending on the size it may still get hot in there and heat your tank. RS also makes a large flow fan designed to be mounted on the back of the cabinet. You can see this in accessories on their web site. Good luck with your tank!
lethal
Has been struck by the ban stick
Hey Tom,
Just wondering what size return pump you are using for your chiller. The reason I ask is that I am running an Eheim 2000lph/500gph and I am not sure if that will be enough flow in the tank if I take out the RS pump. I will probably get a Vortech one day but not for a while - saving hard.
Cheers
Leigh.
Just wondering what size return pump you are using for your chiller. The reason I ask is that I am running an Eheim 2000lph/500gph and I am not sure if that will be enough flow in the tank if I take out the RS pump. I will probably get a Vortech one day but not for a while - saving hard.
Cheers
Leigh.
tnwillia
Well-Known Member
Hey Leigh... I use an Iwaki WMD40LXT external rated at 1200GPH at 4ft head. I'm pushing a lot more distance than that so the flow into the tank is less than that 1200 GPH but I've not figured it out.
The main thing you need is to match your pump capacity to the requirements of your chiller. Most of them have minimum flow requirements and you need to figure your head into that also. I just went bigger than needed and used the gate valves to slow the extra flow.
Loosing the RSM pump can depend on where to take your chiller back into the tank. I went into the DT and had no problem taking out the right pump. Aramis took his into the back left chamber but I think he kept both his pumps. IMO keeping both pumps and the added chiller flow will not hurt your tank in any way. I'm just working towards getting all the possible heat sources out of my tank. Hope this helps, it is just my way and possibilities for you to choose. Good luck!
The main thing you need is to match your pump capacity to the requirements of your chiller. Most of them have minimum flow requirements and you need to figure your head into that also. I just went bigger than needed and used the gate valves to slow the extra flow.
Loosing the RSM pump can depend on where to take your chiller back into the tank. I went into the DT and had no problem taking out the right pump. Aramis took his into the back left chamber but I think he kept both his pumps. IMO keeping both pumps and the added chiller flow will not hurt your tank in any way. I'm just working towards getting all the possible heat sources out of my tank. Hope this helps, it is just my way and possibilities for you to choose. Good luck!
Hey Tom,
I duplicated your installation and im using a velocity T1 EXTERNAL PUMP.
For some reason i am unable to get the flow going.
Made sure i had water in my system before starting the pump not to run it dry.
made sure i got rid of air.
started the pump and nothing it wont push or pull.
what would you think is the problem.
is there a good way to prime the pump???
its driving me crazy i want to get this baby going.
ChrisandMel
Member
Hey gang. I'm in the same boat. Bought a 1/10hp chiller and haven't installed it because I didn't know how. I saw on some forum where they say you can utilize the bigger powerhead of the max to use for the chiller. Is that true? They said reverse the powerheads so the big one is obviously near the bracket for the chiller hoses. I see everyone here using an external pump. Anyone try the other method of using the stronger powerhead?
Thanks!
Thanks!
tnwillia
Well-Known Member
I originally did what Red Sea shows for the 250 with an internal pump in the right chamber under the existing flow pump. I used a Rios 2200 but had to cut about a 1/4" off the intake pipe to get it to fit down the chamber. It worked but created sonme heat I didn't want and went External. There are people on here running internal pumps. Good luck!
ChrisandMel
Member
Hey guys. I'm installing a chiller as well. This drawing is great but can I ask someone a few questions? Can I use my bigger powerhead, move it to the right and use that to flow the chiller? Or is it better to run an external pump?
Just one more thing to have to plug in and make noise. I'ts a great drawing but never done this. So I have the two ports on the chiller. I have the fitting for the rsm with the two ports in the front back back. So the tube on the IN part of the chiller goes to OUT of the pump. Here's where I get lost. The tube then goes from the IN on the pump to the back of the bracket feeting of the rsm? And what side? And then the OUT from the chiller to the other side of the bracket? So what connects to the two front ports of the bracket? Just cut enough tubing to run down all the way to the sump?
Thanks sorry. I've been staring at this chiller all night trying to visualize.
Just one more thing to have to plug in and make noise. I'ts a great drawing but never done this. So I have the two ports on the chiller. I have the fitting for the rsm with the two ports in the front back back. So the tube on the IN part of the chiller goes to OUT of the pump. Here's where I get lost. The tube then goes from the IN on the pump to the back of the bracket feeting of the rsm? And what side? And then the OUT from the chiller to the other side of the bracket? So what connects to the two front ports of the bracket? Just cut enough tubing to run down all the way to the sump?
Thanks sorry. I've been staring at this chiller all night trying to visualize.
imaccat
Active Member
Chris,
Not sure if this will help or not, but this is how mine is set up.
I have a newjet pump in the right hand chamber, which draws water in and pumps it via eheim tube to the left hand connector on the acessory kit. The other side of that accessory kit is connected to the IN connector of the chiller. the OUT of the chiller then runs back to the other port on the acccessory kit, the inside of that is then connected directly to the nozzle back into the tank. I also have on/off valve switches as close to the IN & OUT ports on the chiller so I can isolate it and remove it if necessary.
Good luck
Not sure if this will help or not, but this is how mine is set up.
I have a newjet pump in the right hand chamber, which draws water in and pumps it via eheim tube to the left hand connector on the acessory kit. The other side of that accessory kit is connected to the IN connector of the chiller. the OUT of the chiller then runs back to the other port on the acccessory kit, the inside of that is then connected directly to the nozzle back into the tank. I also have on/off valve switches as close to the IN & OUT ports on the chiller so I can isolate it and remove it if necessary.
Good luck
tnwillia
Well-Known Member
I went External after trying Internal because of the heat generated in my tank by the additional pump. At the time I was fighting big heat problems in my tank and long before RedSea admitted the skimmer pump was bad. Also, if you still have the RSM light hood you run into problems how to get your return into the DT because of the very small space between the DT top & hood.
The RSM book shows using the accessory port in/out (5/8" barbs) and adding a additional pump under the flow pump in the right chamber. This will work fine if you can find a pump that fits that area. My only problem was pumping the chilled water right back into the same area the chiller pulled the water from, would my tank ever see the cooling effect or was I creating a cooling loop in/out of the chiller in the right chamber. Good luck!
The RSM book shows using the accessory port in/out (5/8" barbs) and adding a additional pump under the flow pump in the right chamber. This will work fine if you can find a pump that fits that area. My only problem was pumping the chilled water right back into the same area the chiller pulled the water from, would my tank ever see the cooling effect or was I creating a cooling loop in/out of the chiller in the right chamber. Good luck!
ChrisandMel
Member
Thanks gang for the help. I just hooked up the chiller and flow is fine but I haven't turned the chiller on yet as it says to circulate for about 30 mins. I tried what Red Sea says and put the chiller pump on the bottom but with that and the smaller head there was tons of rattling and the "infamous bubbles". Any one know what that's about? I'm almost tempted to just run the chiller pump and disconnect the smaller power head altogether. Any thoughts. I do have a Koalia in that corner helping with circulation. Thanks again for any insight!