Search results

First things first, check your parameters, as PSU said. That will give you your first clue as to what might be causing issues. However, Euphyllia species are pretty hardy. But there are a few things that may be going on. While I'm running down a list of possibilities, it's important to evaluate...

Looks great! Your tang needs to slow down so he can be seen.

Six years later, and a lot has changed. I switched over to Hydras for lighting and really like them. The hammer and the gorgonian have grown like weeds. I've only recently begun adding corals again, and feel like the results are good. Had an outbreak of a fleshy algae that I can't quite...

For polyps, I'd look for a simple used T5 or PC setup. No need to go crazy on the lighting. However, if you're thinking about moving to more light loving corals later on, I'd see about an LED setup. Pricey, but you can basically adjust the light levels to whatever you need based on stocking, and...

Nice job on bringing it back! Looks great!

To follow on, I also use the API Master Reef Kit for my basic tests, though I have started using a Hanna Checker for Phosphates. For Magnesium (Which doesn't come in the API set), I have had good results with the Red Sea Magnesium Pro kit.

First, is that Chaetomorpha or Caulerpa? It doesn't look like Chaeto to me - the stems seem too thick with thin walls. Chaeto is almost like a coarse hair. Caulerpa can go sexual and cause a mess in a small system in short order. You don't really need any substrate in the fuge - it's not...

Check here: Reef Octopus Hang-on-the-Back Skimmer OCT-BH100 - English Check out the BRS group buy thread that's going on, you may be able to get this as part of the buy. Edit: You mean to tell me I don't need to bother doing URL tags? -sigh-

The skeleton looks like a species of Turbinaria, though I've never seen a purple one.

What's your pH? If you added alk, that will drive up pH quickly, depending on how much. It's usually recommended to spread the addition over several days, rechecking each day. I don't think you're looking at ich, since you referenced white spots in your original post. Jawfish in general are...

If you're going to run a fuge under the tank, look at the Sicce 1.5. At 3 feet of head, it will push about 250 gph, which is right around what you want. The Eheim 1250 should be about the same, though it's more expensive. The Mag Drive 3 is also similar, slightly cheaper, but draws 50% more...

I have almost always used a powerhead with tubing to do my water changes. Pump out into an empty bucket, pump in from your new salt water.

The simplest way is to build a PVC run up from the pump, over the lip of the tank, and back down. You can then put an elbow or a T fitting (not glued, so you can rotate it) on the bottom of the PVC to deflect flow out into the tank. You can also use locline to direct flow once you get into the...

From reading about the products, I don't think they will do permanent damage to your rock and sand, though you'll only get the stuff out through agressive water changes. Biological filtration can be restored with a couple new pieces of live rock. Re-start your cycle with a deli shrimp. the old...

Ooof...I don't know. Formalin is related to formaldehyde...You never want to medicate your DT, however, I don't see that either is copper based, so you may be able to clear it out with carbon. Hopefully somebody else can chime in and help, I have no experience with these meds. What I would do...

You probably don't need a lot of flow in a 55. check out Lifereef and, if you are comfortable with it, or know someone who can drill glass, Glass Holes . I have a lifereef overflow and have never had an issue with it (except when I cracked one of the U-tubes when I was cleaning it out). One...

Lynn, I raised the ich question due to the cycling with fish - I wasn't trying to say that there was a likelihood, but a possibility. I was trying to point out that if the fish are going to come out into QT anyway, might be best to fallow the tank just to ensure nothing remains behind.

They need to be re-exposed to the parasite in order to get it. Were they in copper in the LFS? It seems unlikely that they would be in copper treated water full time, that's expensive, and makes filtration of the stock tanks more difficult. Very few wholesalers and LFS's quarantine and/or treat...

Internets ate my edit. I would go with a larger QT, 10-15 gallons. Without the biological filtration present in a fully set up display, ammonia levels can climb rapidly. More volume dilutes the ammonia.

You can set up a 10 gallon QT fairly cheaply. One of those 10 gallon starter kits will work fine, you can use water from the DT to start the QT up. Move the clowns into it while the DT cycles. Normally, you would be at about the right time to add them to the tank (four weeks) when the cycle is...