You DIP!!

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
Actually I mean "Do you dip?"

I've been talking with some local reefers/fraggers lately and realize there are as many "Dip procedures" as there are fraggers. So do you dip and if you do when and how?

Iodine?
Medicated?

Preventative?
Injury related?

Fresh Water?
Salt Water?

Dip or Soak?
  • What do you dip (softies, zoa, LPS, SPS)?
  • When do you dip (upon arrival, after fragging, when injured)?
  • How do you dip (quick dip n shake, soak, dip rinse dip,)?
  • What do you dip with (Iodine, Coral RX/Rvive etc)?

    and
  • WHY do you dip?
 

sasquatch

Brunt of all Jokes~
PREMIUM
Great Topic! Im as anti snake oil as it gets from years of chronic abuse haha, however, I recently used Revive on my transfer corals, Ive never seen so many bristle worms drop out of corals, it kills pods,really disturbs bristles, loosens up encrusted muck and did no harm whatsoever to my corals.
 

Bearjohnson

Well-Known Member
PREMIUM
RS Ambassador
No coral gets into my system without a dip in Coral RX. You'd be amazed at what comes out of them! It hasn't done any harm whatsoever to any coral that I dipped. Kills anything on in or around the coral in a matter of a minute or two.
 

jjmoneyman

RS Sponsor
I have been called a DIP so I figured I would respond.

I get new shipments of coral almost weekly. Most of these are full size colonies and things like zoas are often on large amounts of rock so could be hiding just about anything.

Everything is drip acclimated then will go into a bath of Coral RX with the exception of clams and nems. In my opinion Coral RX is very harsh and I heard many say not to use it sps. I will adjust the dip time based on my gut feeling. SPS I will dip for a for like 10-15 seconds while zoas and such on suspicious looking rock I will dip for minutes. This stuff will kill just about everything from pods, to crabs, to worms, to starfish. After the dip in Coral RX they go into a rinse dip of just tank water to get the Coral RX off of them, then they go into a QT tank for a week or so just so I can monitor things. This method works very good for me. It's not a guarantee though. Last week I found a bad crab harassing one of my millies in my DT. Where he came from or how long he had been in the tank (which must have been quite a while since I hadn't added anything new) I have no clue. But when bringing in large colonies it is much more susceptible than just frags on frag disks. Do realize that using a harsh dip such as this will really piss off your corals and they will stay closed for much longer than if they aren't used. In addition it could cause problems. Here's an example: In one shipment I got some clove polyps on a big rock. I did my RX dip and put it in the QT tank. The next day the tank reeked bad and everything was looking terrible that was in the QT tank. I pulled everything out of the tank and did the sniff test, when I got to the clove polyps it about knocked me over. What had happened was the rock was extremely porous and full of bristle worms. When I dipped it, it killed the worms but they stayed in the rock and were decaying. I had to do an emergency frag to eliminate the rock and a 100% water change on my QT system. Kept unchecked I I'm sure I would have lost everything in the QT.

Another potion I use Seachem coral disinfectant. This is a iodine based solution. In my opinion this is not something to use on incoming corals and won't really do anything to prevent unwanted hitchhikers. I use this when fragging fleshy corals such as acans, favias, chalices... After fragging I will dip them in this solution for a couple minutes to prevent infection. Fleshy corals that have a flesh issue caused from shipping or harsh handling or being stung by another coral is also a candidate for this dip to prevent further infection.

My last solution I use is a hydrogen peroxide solution. I will mix 50% hydrogen peroxide with 50% tank water and use this on zoa frags that might get a sudden attack of hair algae or bryopsis algae. This doesn't happen often but it does happen on rare occasions. I will place the frag in the solution for around a minute. Usually a week later the algae is gone. I did this on a chalice once that came in with bryopsis and it worked as well but the chalice took a lot longer to recover. This method does NOT work for everybody as I've heard people say they their zoas didn't come back after this, but I have personally never had a problem with this. On a side note I did this to a couple of frags of zoas once, and it completely changed their color from orange to blue.

No you know all of my secrets.
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
Very well written JJ. I had forgotten about the "secret society of H2O2 dippers". I use that one often as well. In fact it might come into play tonight or some time this weekend on a couple of frags.

Doesn't anyone use Interceptor for your SPS coral?
 

jjmoneyman

RS Sponsor
I keep Interceptor on hand but don't use it, but I've never had redbugs come in either so I consider myself lucky, but I do have it just in case.
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
I learned "Red Bugs" the hard way. Now every coral gets an Interceptor bath before going into the tank.
 

sk8rdn

Has been struck by the ban stick
jjmoneyman said:
I have been called a DIP so I figured I would respond.

I get new shipments of coral almost weekly. Most of these are full size colonies and things like zoas are often on large amounts of rock so could be hiding just about anything.

Everything is drip acclimated then will go into a bath of Coral RX with the exception of clams and nems. In my opinion Coral RX is very harsh and I heard many say not to use it sps. I will adjust the dip time based on my gut feeling. SPS I will dip for a for like 10-15 seconds while zoas and such on suspicious looking rock I will dip for minutes. This stuff will kill just about everything from pods, to crabs, to worms, to starfish. After the dip in Coral RX they go into a rinse dip of just tank water to get the Coral RX off of them, then they go into a QT tank for a week or so just so I can monitor things. This method works very good for me. It's not a guarantee though. Last week I found a bad crab harassing one of my millies in my DT. Where he came from or how long he had been in the tank (which must have been quite a while since I hadn't added anything new) I have no clue. But when bringing in large colonies it is much more susceptible than just frags on frag disks. Do realize that using a harsh dip such as this will really piss off your corals and they will stay closed for much longer than if they aren't used. In addition it could cause problems. Here's an example: In one shipment I got some clove polyps on a big rock. I did my RX dip and put it in the QT tank. The next day the tank reeked bad and everything was looking terrible that was in the QT tank. I pulled everything out of the tank and did the sniff test, when I got to the clove polyps it about knocked me over. What had happened was the rock was extremely porous and full of bristle worms. When I dipped it, it killed the worms but they stayed in the rock and were decaying. I had to do an emergency frag to eliminate the rock and a 100% water change on my QT system. Kept unchecked I I'm sure I would have lost everything in the QT.

Another potion I use Seachem coral disinfectant. This is a iodine based solution. In my opinion this is not something to use on incoming corals and won't really do anything to prevent unwanted hitchhikers. I use this when fragging fleshy corals such as acans, favias, chalices... After fragging I will dip them in this solution for a couple minutes to prevent infection. Fleshy corals that have a flesh issue caused from shipping or harsh handling or being stung by another coral is also a candidate for this dip to prevent further infection.

My last solution I use is a hydrogen peroxide solution. I will mix 50% hydrogen peroxide with 50% tank water and use this on zoa frags that might get a sudden attack of hair algae or bryopsis algae. This doesn't happen often but it does happen on rare occasions. I will place the frag in the solution for around a minute. Usually a week later the algae is gone. I did this on a chalice once that came in with bryopsis and it worked as well but the chalice took a lot longer to recover. This method does NOT work for everybody as I've heard people say they their zoas didn't come back after this, but I have personally never had a problem with this. On a side note I did this to a couple of frags of zoas once, and it completely changed their color from orange to blue.

No you know all of my secrets.

Very thorough Jj, now we know why you are the best!

...."Fish" Happens!....
 

PSU4ME

JoePa lives on!!!
Staff member
PREMIUM
I have a bunch of interceptor on hand but haven't used it yet.......i plan to use it in a bucket with an airstone for a few hours on my sps corals. i'm planning to buy my corals in bunches so that i can do a full out process.

H2O2 works great for algae.

Coral RX for all but not SPS. I've been toold that a quick swish won't hurt them but i'm not a believer.

Also a quick FW dip exposes nudis really quick!
 

yankieman

Well-Known Member
I use coral RX for everything but SPS for those I just dip in Revive,, I might try interceptor but its a bit hard to get without going through a vet,,,
 

engineer goby

Has been struck by the ban stick
I dip everything after an incident I had last spring with a zoa frag. I drip acclimate my corals then it's off to a 10 minute coral Rx bath then a good rince in a bucket of tank water. So many critters have come off the corals during this dip that i'm afraid to not do it. Besides the cartoon they have on their website made me chuckle.
 

StirCrayzy

Well-Known Member
Great topic. I will be dipping all my new corals this time around. Good info JJ , Thanks.

Are there a any valid old threads, or maybe update here for the process of multiple product dips?
i will most likely use coral RX primarily.
 

ddelozier

Well-Known Member
PREMIUM
RS Ambassador
I dip..copenhagen Long Cut wintergreen. I;ve not started fragging much yet, but i couldnt resist.
 

Nightfall

Member
I have been called a DIP so I figured I would respond.

I get new shipments of coral almost weekly. Most of these are full size colonies and things like zoas are often on large amounts of rock so could be hiding just about anything.

Everything is drip acclimated then will go into a bath of Coral RX with the exception of clams and nems. In my opinion Coral RX is very harsh and I heard many say not to use it sps. I will adjust the dip time based on my gut feeling. SPS I will dip for a for like 10-15 seconds while zoas and such on suspicious looking rock I will dip for minutes. This stuff will kill just about everything from pods, to crabs, to worms, to starfish. After the dip in Coral RX they go into a rinse dip of just tank water to get the Coral RX off of them, then they go into a QT tank for a week or so just so I can monitor things. This method works very good for me. It's not a guarantee though. Last week I found a bad crab harassing one of my millies in my DT. Where he came from or how long he had been in the tank (which must have been quite a while since I hadn't added anything new) I have no clue. But when bringing in large colonies it is much more susceptible than just frags on frag disks. Do realize that using a harsh dip such as this will really piss off your corals and they will stay closed for much longer than if they aren't used. In addition it could cause problems. Here's an example: In one shipment I got some clove polyps on a big rock. I did my RX dip and put it in the QT tank. The next day the tank reeked bad and everything was looking terrible that was in the QT tank. I pulled everything out of the tank and did the sniff test, when I got to the clove polyps it about knocked me over. What had happened was the rock was extremely porous and full of bristle worms. When I dipped it, it killed the worms but they stayed in the rock and were decaying. I had to do an emergency frag to eliminate the rock and a 100% water change on my QT system. Kept unchecked I I'm sure I would have lost everything in the QT.

Another potion I use Seachem coral disinfectant. This is a iodine based solution. In my opinion this is not something to use on incoming corals and won't really do anything to prevent unwanted hitchhikers. I use this when fragging fleshy corals such as acans, favias, chalices... After fragging I will dip them in this solution for a couple minutes to prevent infection. Fleshy corals that have a flesh issue caused from shipping or harsh handling or being stung by another coral is also a candidate for this dip to prevent further infection.

My last solution I use is a hydrogen peroxide solution. I will mix 50% hydrogen peroxide with 50% tank water and use this on zoa frags that might get a sudden attack of hair algae or bryopsis algae. This doesn't happen often but it does happen on rare occasions. I will place the frag in the solution for around a minute. Usually a week later the algae is gone. I did this on a chalice once that came in with bryopsis and it worked as well but the chalice took a lot longer to recover. This method does NOT work for everybody as I've heard people say they their zoas didn't come back after this, but I have personally never had a problem with this. On a side note I did this to a couple of frags of zoas once, and it completely changed their color from orange to blue.

No you know all of my secrets.

Ok so here is my question, being the supreme noob of the forums and to salt water tanks (don't believe me check out my chronicle on my tank called "Against All Odds" since everything was done wrong yet survived!)....being the now highly paranoid noob after all the horror stories and stuff should I do EACH of those with using a QT tank for a week between each method to ensure everything besides the coral is dead/gone/history/kaput/adios/safe? Or would you do say the hydrogen peroxide solution and then rinse, and then do Coral RX or Bayer advanced insect killer dip, then rinse again and QT for a week or 2?
 
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