What levels should Phosphate Be

Kovu

Kovu

Member
Im pretty sure that phosphate should be at zero but i want to double check, but my problem is that my phosphates are at .5 and nitrates are at 10 so im hoping of a way to get phosphates to go down to zero. Nitrates are going down because of water changes going from 100 to 10 ppms so I think i have nitrates under control.
 
l3fty999

l3fty999

Member
kdirk16 said:
Phosphate reactor and vodka dosing and yes both should be zero
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Vodka dosing works, I've done it, but you need to just do a little research and what I found was a table for ml of vodka per however many gallons of water. It seems that if you put too much vodka in your tank, the resulting bacterial bloom uses up a lot of oxygen and everything that can reach the surface will be there, gasping for breath. But, like I said, having done it myself, it does work well when properly done.

Aaron
 
Shazbah

Shazbah

Member
13fty999 Could you point me in the direction of the vodka dosing table as i'm also interested in vodka dosing
Thanks Sharon (sorry to invade post)
 
Frankie

Frankie

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
kdirk16 said:
Phosphate reactor and vodka dosing and yes both should be zero
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I agree with the PB reactor but not the vodka. There are too many impurities still in it for aquarium usage. Also getting the dosage dialed in using it is still anyones guess from system to system.
The best suggestion for dealing with phosphates AND nitrates is finding the cause. More then likely your dealing with the typical cause, over feeding.
Most over the counter phosphate test kits are inaccurate anyhow. The best one would be the Hanna for accurate phosphate readings to an acceptable level and even the Hanna can only read so far down.
I would concentrate on dealing with the nitrates. Once you get them under control and reading zero your Phosphate level should also drop down to acceptable levels.
 
Kovu

Kovu

Member
Okay so i did another test I did two tests to compare them for nitrates the api said 0 and the sailifert said 0 and i know the sailfert is right because it has always shown high nitrates untill now. So thats good. For phosphates both tester sea chem and api said .5
For feeding i feed a small cube, rinsed in rodi water and two or three pieces of algae for the tangs.
Frankie how much is Hanna usually cost I would look it up but for some reason i can only go to my faviortes and nothing else.
 
Frankie

Frankie

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Kovu said:
Okay so i did another test I did two tests to compare them for nitrates the api said 0 and the sailifert said 0 and i know the sailfert is right because it has always shown high nitrates untill now. So thats good. For phosphates both tester sea chem and api said .5
For feeding i feed a small cube, rinsed in rodi water and two or three pieces of algae for the tangs.
Frankie how much is Hanna usually cost I would look it up but for some reason i can only go to my faviortes and nothing else.
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Aquarium Specialty <--link
If your not overfeeding, (it appears your not) then I would start to question the top off water you are using.
RO/DI does not mean your topping off with pure water if the unit needs to be cleaned or filters changed. It also needs to be tested with a TDS reader.
If your getting 0 on the API red test then your doing good.
Also try not to over kill the tanks results. If your not having any issues that are caused from Nitrates and phosphates then I would leave it alone. Neither of these will harm your tank at low levels. Actually some nitrates in the water are good for some creatures like clams.
 
Kovu

Kovu

Member
The filters in my rodi unit are getting old i wonder if thats the problem the tds say around 5 so that might be my problem I still have money from working left. What do you mean API red test the api test i have is the master reef but im confuse by what you meant.
I have done some big water changes since i was slacking so it could be that phosphates were really high and now they have been lowered. Thanks for the help by the way frankie.
 
Frankie

Frankie

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RS STAFF
TDS needs to read 0 all the time in my book.
API nitrate test will turn red when nitrates are high and make it very difficult to get an accurate reading. If it is not red then your low on nitrates. I cannot remember if the phos is the same way or not. It's been a long time since I have used that kit you have.
 
Frankie

Frankie

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
OK then. Green it is :)
Those kind of test kits are good for people that do not want to read more detailed test results.
I have read a lot of good feedback about Elos kits being very accurate and novice easy. Something to consider for future test kit buys.
Seachem makes a good kit also that I found to be good for my aggressive testing when I started up zeovit. I contribute a lot of my success to there kits when it came to fast accurate readings.
I never did use a TDS meter before. I changed the filters on a 4 stage filter every 4 months to the day. 2 months before they were spent. Some things you need not be slacking on ;)
 
Kovu

Kovu

Member
Yea i have been trying to get the money but durning winter with the place i work at a golf course being closed for the winter its hard for me to get money.
 
Kovu

Kovu

Member
Well with the economy how it is its hard for a 16 year old to find work around here went every where, but i do make alot of money during the summer work a 1000+ hours each summer, under minimal pay but its money nd why complain.
 
BigAl07

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
Shazabh said:
13fty999 Could you point me in the direction of the vodka dosing table as i'm also interested in vodka dosing
Thanks Sharon (sorry to invade post)
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Sharon (and anyone else reading),

the "Vodka" method is very clinical, tedious and a very quick trip to a tank crash. Not only does it require precision in testing and dosing but once your tank is stable you have to WEEN your system off because it's now relying on the vodka to keep the bacteria growing. Just way to technical and dangerous for my tanks.
 
Kovu

Kovu

Member
and to be honest after hearing your post and doing some research i deffently think that vodka is too advance for me and im not willing to risk it.
 
l3fty999

l3fty999

Member
BigAl07 said:
Sharon (and anyone else reading),

the "Vodka" method is very clinical, tedious and a very quick trip to a tank crash. Not only does it require precision in testing and dosing but once your tank is stable you have to WEEN your system off because it's now relying on the vodka to keep the bacteria growing. Just way to technical and dangerous for my tanks.
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First, I must apologize. I did not intend for it to sound like an easy, cure-all solution. I guess when I said "properly done", I wasn't clear enough. I do agree that is is VERY clinical and precise, and that is how I applied it. I did mention what would happen if too much was added, but I did neglect to mention weaning the system off of it when the problem was taken care of. I did ask that the article be read before attempting this procedure, and I was just assuming that it would inspire the readers to do more research than to just read that one article. I will be more careful from now on when making suggestions or comments.

Aaron
 
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