Tank Crashed! Oh No!
- Thread starter Avianman
- Start date
bwhit1406
Member
Very true there is nothing to say a controller can't fail. What it gives you is redundancy, Max setting on heater max setting on controller. A controller can also be set to give an alarm at various conditions like high temp. You can also use it for lights, powerheads, dosing etc. Just bought a Reef keeper and wish I had a long time ago.
Well that might be like me saying the principles in my van are the same as a ferrari, so it should be able to perform the same.
There are some very high end heaters with controllers, that may be as good, but they cost about the same as, or more than, a controller. And the controller also has other capabilities, if you wanted them, later. For instance I got tired of trying to match the colors on something as critical as PH so I added a module and probe, and now read PH through my controller also.
The controller controls the power to the heater. The controller uses a temperature probe to monitor, you ste a certain temp below which the power to the heater is turned on. Once the temp reaches that point the power is shut off.
I don't know why anyone would ever "max out" their heater, That would be askin for disaster. If the controller somehow failed to shut off the heater, it would still not rise past it's set point as long as it's not set to the max.
If I were going to worry about 2 heaters failing or a controller and a heater failing at the same time, I don't think I'd bother getting out of bed in the morning as I might get hit by lightening or an asteroid or something. I think the chances are pretty small.
Now if the controller failed and didn't turn the heater on, there would be no backup for that, except for the room temp, which usually keeps it from going fatally low. All stories I've heard of fatally low temps were do to extended power outages.
Here is a link to the type of controller I'm talking about:
Digital Aquatics
There are some very high end heaters with controllers, that may be as good, but they cost about the same as, or more than, a controller. And the controller also has other capabilities, if you wanted them, later. For instance I got tired of trying to match the colors on something as critical as PH so I added a module and probe, and now read PH through my controller also.
The controller controls the power to the heater. The controller uses a temperature probe to monitor, you ste a certain temp below which the power to the heater is turned on. Once the temp reaches that point the power is shut off.
I don't know why anyone would ever "max out" their heater, That would be askin for disaster. If the controller somehow failed to shut off the heater, it would still not rise past it's set point as long as it's not set to the max.
If I were going to worry about 2 heaters failing or a controller and a heater failing at the same time, I don't think I'd bother getting out of bed in the morning as I might get hit by lightening or an asteroid or something. I think the chances are pretty small.
Now if the controller failed and didn't turn the heater on, there would be no backup for that, except for the room temp, which usually keeps it from going fatally low. All stories I've heard of fatally low temps were do to extended power outages.
Here is a link to the type of controller I'm talking about:
Digital Aquatics
I'm pretty certain what bwhit meant by "max setting on heater" is that if you set the heater on 78 that should be the "max" it goes to should the controller fail...it does not mean to set your heater at the max setting. Just didn't want any confusion.
Once you go "Controller" you never go back.
You redundancy in your heater as well as LOTS of other features (some included in the basic kits and some ADD-ons).
Sorry for your losses but hopefully someone else will learn ahead of time from your experience and not duplicate your situation.
good luck and Happy Reefing
You redundancy in your heater as well as LOTS of other features (some included in the basic kits and some ADD-ons).
Sorry for your losses but hopefully someone else will learn ahead of time from your experience and not duplicate your situation.
good luck and Happy Reefing
Avianman
Member
That link doesn't work, but if it's the $169 package, it looks like a great deal. The only thing I wasn't crazy about the SL1 is that it's ORP and PH, where the SL2 is salinity and PH (if they ever get a working salinity probe) salinity is more popular than ORP. If you want ORP or are sure you don't want salinity and just PH it's perfect. I don't mean to confuse, you can have both the SL1 and the SL2 but if you're only going to get 1 of them, make the best choice for yourself.
tnwillia
Well-Known Member
Here is the best deal I found on the basic RKL... just ordered it yesterday! Good luck and sorry for your loss!
Reef Keeper Lite L1 - Digital Aquatics - English
Reef Keeper Lite L1 - Digital Aquatics - English
Avianman
Member
mbdave
Active Member
Here is a nice item to have on your tank as a warning device.
Aquatic Eco-Systems: Aquarium Supplies - Alarm Thermometer
Dave
Aquatic Eco-Systems: Aquarium Supplies - Alarm Thermometer
Dave
Yup, that's the one I thought you were looking at. It's a good deal.
Any signs of anything coming back?
Here's the unit I use and highly recommend: Amazon.com: Johnson Controls A419ABC-1C Electronic Temp Controller: Everything Else
Not only can you control your heater with it, but you can easily reconfigure it in the summer months to run your chiller too. This is an industrial unit with a very accurate stainless thermoprobe and any number of ways to run it - you can run it to allow a wide range of temperatures, or a very narrow range, etc.
Not only can you control your heater with it, but you can easily reconfigure it in the summer months to run your chiller too. This is an industrial unit with a very accurate stainless thermoprobe and any number of ways to run it - you can run it to allow a wide range of temperatures, or a very narrow range, etc.
Avianman
Member
Well, as of today the feather dusters, maroon clown, crabs, starfish and my colony of zoas are alive. That means all my LPS and mushrooms went kaput.
The GSP are showing no signs. My racordea looked like they were going to pull through but then dissolved about a day later.
I have done one decent size water change and put carbon in the filter. Levels still look okay.
I am thinking of ordering that deal. I had considered changing to the SL2, but Salinity only takes a second to measure and there really isnt anything that can get so out of whack as to cause it to change suddenly (where I would need daily monitoring)
Avianman
Member
If you get a chance, read the review for that temp controller......the guy that wrote that review has waaaaaay too much time on his hands......
I think the controller discussion was an excellent thing to put in this thread for anyone reading this. Nothing wrong with trying to prevent tank crashes for other people. I think everyone has pretty much already offered all the advice possible for a terrible situation like this.
Avianman
Member
Just an update: it's been a couple weeks now, and I have done three moderate water changes, changed carbon every few days. Levels are still good all around. I noticed yesterday morning that my GSPs are coming back! It's like Christmas all over again!
I have a soft spot for green star polyps - weeds to so many but I would be happy if I had a tank full of them!
My zoas have rebounded with gusto and seem to be thriving more than ever. Overall it was not as big of a disaster as I had originally thought
I have a soft spot for green star polyps - weeds to so many but I would be happy if I had a tank full of them!
My zoas have rebounded with gusto and seem to be thriving more than ever. Overall it was not as big of a disaster as I had originally thought