Steve's LEDs

wondering if its possible to switch a few of the blue leds over to a third channel?

also not sure what i did, but my lights operate on channels 3&4 on the typhoon,
any ideas on how to correct it so they operate on channels 1&2 ?
 

goma

Well-Known Member
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wondering if its possible to switch a few of the blue leds over to a third channel?

also not sure what i did, but my lights operate on channels 3&4 on the typhoon,
any ideas on how to correct it so they operate on channels 1&2 ?

You probably only have two drivers so I don't think you can move some of the LEDs over to a third channel.

Regarding your second question, I need to ask a question - did you buy the extension cable from Steve's or did you make it yourself?
 
i bought the extension cable


since i would need a third driver, is it possible to add the stock moonlights back to the original rsm timer?
i remember i gutted the lid pretty good, removed the stock driver i think
 

goma

Well-Known Member
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Since you bought the extension cable, the issue is you are using the positive wires from the Typhoon ports 3 and 4. You would need to get back in the hood and remove your two positive wires from the drivers and then connect the other two positive wires, that will put you on channels 1&2. Kind of a pain for what you really gain, I would just leave it as is.
 
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Wolffman64

Active Member
Greg, I know that you are not reimbursed by Steve's LED in any way, but you SHOULD get paid from them for all the support you give for their products!!!
 

goma

Well-Known Member
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Thanks Jan, I appreciate it. Hopefully they will update their instructions to make it easier on the purchaser! In the meantime, I don't mind helping folks out, it really isn't any trouble.
 

Hutchy007

Member
Thanks Jan, I appreciate it. Hopefully they will update their instructions to make it easier on the purchaser! In the meantime, I don't mind helping folks out, it really isn't any trouble.

You will regret saying that when mine arrives shortly :p

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 

Irene

Member
Hi Greg, I'm thinking of getting the led's, could you tell me how many cooling fans I can get rid of if I fit the led's, can I lose the water cooling fans at the back and how many of the hood cooling fans do I have to keep.

Thanks

Irene
 

goma

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You remove 3 of the hood cooling fans and only leave 1. So this does help with the noise quite a bit.

I kept my water cooling fans but I live in Florida and my ambient house temp is about 78 degrees F. The good thing about the water cooling fans is when you switch to LEDs, you can just turn them off and see what your temps do, if they start getting too high, you can just flip them back on.
 

Siebo

New Member
Great to be here. I bought a Steve's led for my 14g biocube. I would like to wire it into the current switches in the hood. Do I splice the negative wire in between the driver and circut board or in the wire to the potentiometer. Thanks
 

goma

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Hi Seibo - welcome to RS. I've never done a 14G biocube, however looking through the install manual for the biocube they don't discuss wiring it into the existing switches, in fact the manual states "The simplest installation is to completely remove all stock electronics." So I'm at a bit of a loss here.
 

Newjack

Member
I just did a LED retro in my biocube and wired them to the 2 existing switches. Send me a clear pic and ill help you
 

Newjack

Member
Without looking at though you should be able to do it to the wire going to the potentiometer. Worst case it does not work and you unplug it and put it back.
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
welcomefish.gif

to ReefSanctuary, a real Sanctuary of reef forums, with lots of very nice members
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Start a new tank thread & share your tank with us so we can follow along - we love pics :)
 

Newjack

Member

Look at the post after this one first!

Thanks for the pic it helps alooot. There is a few ways you can do this. The switches on the top of the biocube are not rated for 120v or 240 if your in UK so do NOT wire the switches directly in the cord going from receptacle to power supply. Also please let me know if you are in UK or US or w/e because if you are in uk you need to look on the power supply and there should be a little red switch receded in the casing that reads 120v and 230 or 240 or w/e. If your in UK it needs to show 230 or 240 or w/e it is. If your in US make sure it says 120 or 110 or w/e they say. If you plug it in before you check it and its wrong it will destroy the power supply.

Ok one option you can do is if you want to operate on 2 different switches you can take the 2 black wires coming from the potentiometer and wire each one to a different switch, HOWEVER it is preferred to wire the hot wire or red to a switch, so if there is only one red wire for each circuit then use it instead. Please use a high temp nut and use electrical tape. you can get both from most hardware stores. Make sure there high temp ceramic nuts. We call them baby blues. If you cant find the nuts you can wrap electrical type really tight and well and that will be good enough. As long as no bare wire is showing. Wire it this way will allow the fan to stay on 24/7 and control the circuits separately.

If you want both circuits to be operated by the same switch witch should also allow the fan to run 24/7 then you can take both the red or if you have to use negative, both of them from the potentiometer and tie them together to the switch. It should not increase voltage, unless there on different phases witch is really unlikely, however it will increase the amp load on those tiny wires witch will produce more heat and is not recommended, to much heat can cause overloading in switches or wire and either trip something or cause fire. If you only have 2 circuits it should not make that much of a difference. Its the same way even if you use the negative wires.

The third way you can do it is by using the wires coming from the power supply to the circuit board. this way the fan will shut off as well. you can do it either one or two switches like I mentioned before preferably the red wires. this will also shut off the circuit board witch increases life time.

The fourth way is to buy a timer or a 120v rated or 240v if your in UK, switch, and wire it to the plug end. This will turn everything including power supply, on and off, you can even buy a cheap slandered light switch and a box to mount on the wall or in w/e you want. If you want to do it this way let me know and ill give instructions.
 

Newjack

Member

I was just thinking.. Before you do anything, Is the fan integrated with the led kit or will you only have the stock fans in the hood? If you only have the stock fans in hood and non on LED please send me a pic of inside the hood when wires are exposed for instruction.

Also for anyone wondering this is the pic he sent me.

ujyne9ad.jpg
 
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