Solaris Owners!

Wolfgang8810

Active Member
You got a duncan too? Guys, just a heads up...we went to this Coral Corral, and I suggested a different place too, and wolfgang here got a little out of control! he was getting coral, so that made me buy something toO!
I did their buy 4 get one free deal :) that superman shroom was really cool!
 

rmlevasseur

Active Member
Good point Matt. I suggested a Solaris only thread but it looks like this is it. Mine is the I series. I use the legs it came with on the tank, so 4-5 inches?
 

Mattfish

Member
Robert - what's your distance from water surface to top of sand (practical bottom of tank)?

Wolfgang and Daniel - more pictures please? Those of us too far away to go in person would like to live vicariously! And then there's the question of whther they ship?

I've seen a picture of Robert's SuperMan Shroom, and my wife is all over that like white on rice, like a cheap suit, like I've run out of bad analogies.....
 

tippMANn98

Has been struck by the ban stick
mattfish, the only other pic I took was that of the super skimmer, I am 6 foot 2" and it stood probably 1 foot and a half over me....

Also, i picked up the superman shroom, he was $20 for the single, they are really nice, mine just needs some TLC and it will look top shape here soon...currently no pics of it...
 

Mattfish

Member
I missed the pic of the SuperSkimmer, but that's a helluva big skimmer.....

I'll have to wait for some more pics - but does that place ship, and did I miss the url for their website?
 

Mattfish

Member
I'd say about 22-23 inches.

Just a thought - and I'm no expert here, but if the I-Series is equivalent to a 400W MH, it would seem that the power of the light is pretty strong. Comparing my 250W equivalent G-Series to a 400W equivalent I-Series, you're putting a lot more light on your tank that we are on ours. Could be part of the reason why the photos are bluish -the camera may not be able to compensate for that much blue light.

But that may be why the bleaching. And why turning the %'s down is working for you, since it effectively reduces the wattage equivalent on the tank....

And since the % reductions aren't even, you're also changing the color temp. I couldn't guess what you're effectively changing it to (I suppose a Kelvin color temp scale could help with a generalized guess), nor do I recall what the effect of that temp is on the corals, but that seems to me is what's happening. No commentary on the good or bad - just an observation.

If someone can post the differences that color temps make on coral, we can all learn a little bit (or really, remember what we'd learn in the past).

For example, what difference does 6500K, vs 8700K, vs. 10K, vs. 20K, etc do to the coral growth and health?
 

PEMfish

Well-Known Member
I haven't heard one bad thing about the solaris here as they take care of there customers. Thats cool.
 

PEMfish

Well-Known Member
If someone can post the differences that color temps make on coral, we can all learn a little bit (or really, remember what we'd learn in the past).

For example, what difference does 6500K, vs 8700K, vs. 10K, vs. 20K, etc do to the coral growth and health?

I know this is not the answer you want but its all I have; the lower the k ( this holds true down to 6500k, from there idk ) the higher the growth.
 

rmlevasseur

Active Member
If you search the forums for some previous discussion on this topic, you might find a thread where I posted and an excellent scientific study which tends to conclue that as long as you are within range for zooanthellae photosynthesis (which is considerably wide), the Kelvin is not nearly as important as previously thought. However, I think the general concensus might contradict what Paul says. I think most people say 20k for optimum growth.
 

Mattfish

Member
I'm sensing a long discussion on this! And after figuring out the best color temp, then the question is how to get the Solaris set for it.....
 

fatman

Has been struck by the ban stick
If you search the forums for some previous discussion on this topic, you might find a thread where I posted and an excellent scientific study which tends to conclue that as long as you are within range for zooanthellae photosynthesis (which is considerably wide), the Kelvin is not nearly as important as previously thought. However, I think the general concensus might contradict what Paul says. I think most people say 20k for optimum growth.

Nah.
 

lcstorc

Well-Known Member
Not sure if this is what you are looking for but MPS posted this on the actinic thread.
We need to focus less on saying 10k, 12k, 20k etc. You want to provide light in the proper spectrums first off, regardless of appearance. That means the light has to be intense enough at the proper wavelengths for the zooxanthellae in the coral.
The image below shows the absorption spectrums of zooxanthellae.
93304Zooxanthellae_Absorbance.jpg
[/IMG]

So first thing you want to make sure your light provides sufficient intensity at the peaks shown above for your coral to live and grow.
Next people generally want some type of flourescence to show up in their corals, different corals have different proteins that reflect light back at different wavelengths giving them that "pop."

This article is great at explaining the different proteins and what spectrum they are excited at:
Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine - Feature Article: Coral Coloration: Fluorescence: Part 1
Excitation wavelength / Emission wavelength -- protein name
Blue Fluorescent Proteins
383 / 445 -- EBFP
399 / 511 -- Sapphire
399 / 511 -- T-Sapphire
Cyan Fluorescent Proteins
439 / 476 -- ECFP
433 / 475 -- mCFP
433 / 475 -- Cerulean
435 / 477 -- CyPet
458 / 489 -- AmCyan1
472 / 495 -- Midori-Ishi Cyan
462 / 492 -- mTFP1 (Teal)
Green Fluorescent Proteins
484 / 507 -- EGFP
480 / 505 -- AcGFP
482 / 502 -- TurboGFP
487 / 509 -- Emerald
492 / 505 -- Azami Green
493 / 505 -- ZsGreen
Yellow Fluorescent Proteins
514 / 527 -- EYFP
514 / 527 -- Topaz
515 / 528 -- Venus
516 / 529 -- mCitrine
517 / 530 -- YPet
525 / 537 -- PhiYFP
529 / 539 -- ZsYellow1
540 / 553 -- mBanana
Orange and Red Fluorescent Proteins
548 / 559 -- Kusabira Orange
548 / 562 -- mOrange
554 / 581 -- dTomato
554 / 581 -- dTomato-Tandem
558 / 583 -- DsRed
563 / 582 -- DsRed2
555 / 584 -- DsRed-Express (T1)
556 / 586 -- DsRed-Monomer
568 / 585 -- mTangerine
574 / 596 -- mStrawberry
576 / 592 -- AsRed2
584 / 607 -- mRFP1
584 / 610 -- JRed
587 / 610 -- mCherry
588 / 618 -- HcRed1
598 / 625 -- mRaspberry
590 / 637 -- HcRed-Tandem
590 / 649 -- mPlum
595 / 655 -- AQ143
In brief, light at the excitation wavelength will result in an emission (the glow) at the emission wavelength. So you'd like to have peaks at those wavelengths if you have corals with the proteins that excite at that wavelength.

Light at other spectrum is there simply to increase your viewing pleasure. It is difficult to view your tank when it only appear blue or purple :)
 

lcstorc

Well-Known Member
Here's more. It doesn't address the Solaris but lighting in general.
Just to add to my previous post, here are some spectral plots from Sanjay that show peaks in some popular bulbs:
figure9-XM20KK.gif


figure10-Ushio10KK.gif


figure6a.gif


Hope you can kind of compare the plots to the absorbance plots of the zooxanthallae provided above.
__________________
 

fatman

Has been struck by the ban stick
There are no charts above which show which algaes are typically present in what coral species at what depths and from where. Other than that you show enough information that a person will know what to look for, but the key to it all varies per each coral species and the depth each came from, plus all the incidentals like turbidities and such which are generally pretty much ignored except with lagoonals. Plus there is the fact that we very seldom ever know exactly where the coral came from, we typically assume, and we almost never know what depths the coral came from, so again we must assume. This often puts us at the mercy of a retailer who seldom supplies or even has that information. A lot of suplpliers buy from many growers so have no idea. Few corals have a factual ancestory record. So going with assumptions: The charts with information as to the typical algae found with in corals from where and at what depth by species are available. Be prepared, typically, for a lot of trial and error. There are issues such as the orals expellng the algae they normally contain and taking on strains that are not normally contained by them..This is seldom mentioned or consisered in studies such as these, only in bleaching studies apparently.
The following links might help a little. The second link is quite good and in plain simple english, but provides little true data.

Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine - Feature Article: Lighting by Number: "Types" of Zooxanthellae and What They Tell Us

Zooxanthellae

As for my opinions:
I do not doubt what you are saying about the proper wave length lighting requirements, that is not new information and is widely understood by most reefers that are serious about growing corals. I also do not question whether 20000K bulbs can make some corals colors pop or cause some colors to appear to the human eye that do to appear at lower K values. However, I deal with SPS corals and as such the lighting requirements for me in general are different from those keeping soft corals and LPS corals and lagoonal corals. I have no idea as to their preferences through experience, as I quit growing them quite some time ago, and used only 6500K halide bulbs when I did grow them to any extent. Corals come from many depths so light availability is different and algaes contained are different. Most I deal with are from approxiamtely 10 meters or a bit more/less. I find the lower K bulbs produce better growth with lower wattages than the 20000K bulbs with most of my corals, and if one of my customers wants more pop than the 10000K halides I typically provide I can usually provide that adequately through supplemental actinic lighting in their display tank or at most higher K lighting in the display tank where I expect no real growth from my corals anyway. I get obviously less growth rates in my display tanks than in my frag/growout/feeding tanks that have lower K bulbs. It is true to get some of the color that is seen in tanks that use high K lighting I need either grow the corals under higher K or keep them under higher K lighting for some time, but most of the colors that are seen only under high K lighting are also available immediately from corals grown more quickly under lower K bulbs and then transferred to display tanks with higher K lighting. I however, do prefer the more natural appearance that lower K bulbs provide than those appearances of popping that so many others like. For me the best viewing is with magnetically driven XM-10000K 250 watt HQI halide with a little actinic 420 nm or 460 nm added. The corals under 20000K lighting often remind me of the day glow black light posters of the 60's and 70's, not reality.

20000K lighting is for those people who can't handle reality. IMO
 
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fatman

Has been struck by the ban stick
Steve Tyree
The zooxanthellae (phytoplankton) that inhabit RBSC, utilize light collecting pigments called photorecptors. These pigments have physical limitations that affect the type and quantity of light they absorb and convert into chemical energy. There are basically two types of pigments within the zooxanthellae: chlorophyls and carotenoids. Chlorophyls a and c primarily absorb blue light, some red and little green or yellow. The carotenoids found within these algae absorb primarily blue light. Algae from low light areas absorb more of the available light field than algae from intense light fields. Almost all RBSC species are also found inhabiting the mid-depth regions where red light is basically non-existant. This means that the corals can adapt and survive without red light. A primarily blue light field with equal amounts of violet and green light is what most of the RBSC experience in nature. They are also exposed to some amounts of UV-A due to its ability to penetrate water to mid-depths. Studies of corals have found that low levels of blue light can achieve peak photosynthesis values similar to what is achieved from peak sunlight (white light). Light at wavelengths of 460 and 420 nm have also been found to enhance algae due to factors independent of photosynthesis.
Algae have a peak rate of photosynthesis that they can achieve that is called the saturation point. The more intense the light is, the earlier the saturation point is reached. What happens is that there are simply too many photons being captured and they cannot all be converted into chemical energy. Too much captured light can actually damage and photoinhibit the photosynthesis apparatus. Algae also possess the ability to adapt to changing light fields and can change their saturation points based on the health and level of adaptability achieved. Light saturation intensity levels for Acropora digitifera in 1 meter (3.28 feet) of water was 407 microE/m2s. The average saturation intensity for corals at 1 meter (3.28 feet) depth at Davis Reef on the GBR was 340 microE/m2s. This is only 22 % of the peak incident irradiance. These shallow water corals are utilizing only 22 % of the available irradiance.
The Photosynthetic Action Spectrum (PAS) defines how photosynthetic organisms respond to light at specific wavelengths. It can be very valuable when analyzing natural underwater light fields with their varying wavelength qualities. PUR or Photosynthetically Useable Radiation is a wavelength biased method that has been utilized in the study of RBSC. A simple example can illustrate how PUR values can be more viable than PAR values. Lets place an organism that has pigments that do not absorb much yellow light into a light field that is all yellow. PAR would give a reading equivalent to the yellow light intensity. PUR would result in a very low value since it is biased with the organisms ability to absorb light at specific wavelengths. Coral scientist have also developed a metric called Photosynthetically Stored Radiation PSR which is similar to PAS.
The pigments previously discussed have been algal pigments that only occur within the zooxanthellae. There are also coral pigments located in the coral animal tissue. All of the non-brown coloration that humans percieve is due to coral pigments. The brown coloration is from zooxanthellae pigmentation. Coral Bleaching refers to a loss or shrinkage of this zooxanthellae pigmentation. In extreme cases the coral will turn white and still remain alive, while minor cases cause a lighter color or white patches to appear on the coral. These zooxanthellae can be expelled from the coral or can degenerate within the coral. A quick bleaching that occurs in just a few days is probably due to an extreme environmental event. Scientist have determined that warm water is the primary cause of bleaching but extreme cold water, reduced salinity, high temperature with intense solar radiation and even a bacterial infection have been found to cause bleaching. The opposite of bleaching is called coloring. This occurs when a coral darkens its brown color, recovers from a bleaching event or even regains its colorful coral pigmentation. A coral that is slowly turning white on areas receiving direct light, while remaining dark brown in low light areas is probably recieving too much light. A coral that is turning dark on areas recieving direct light, while turning white in low light areas is probably not recieving enough light. These slow to develop changes in color are due to photoadaptation.
I have defined the colorful coral pigments into three different types: reflecting; fluorescing and growth pigments. Growth pigments only develop in new growth areas and can disappear as the new area ages. Fluorescing pigments fluoresce or transform UV-A and Violet light into visible light from blue to red. Reflecting pigments will reflect a specific wavelength of light. The first scientifically indentified pigment has been called pocilloporin, which is a pink pigment found within Pocillopora damicornis. This pigment fits my definition of a reflecting pigment. It absorbs green and yellow light while reflecting back pink light. You can only see the pigment if you illuminate it with some reddish light. The development of the pigment increases with the increasing intensity of visible light the coral recieves. It is also possible that exposure to UV light can increase the production of the pigment. However, the pigment does not function as a UV protectant and it is not connected to algal photosynthesis. Science has yet to determine its function. Other pocilloporin-like reflecting pigments are pink in Seriatopora hystrix and Stylophora pistillata as well as the purple in an Acropora digitifera.
Fluorescing pigments have been found to occur in every color of the visible light spectrum. The most common and easy to produce pigment is the green fluorescing pigment. Fluorescing pigments that require more light to be reproduced are the pink and blue fluorescing pigments in Acropora. I do not think its correct for aquarist to subjectively call fluorescing pigments non-desirable. The coral animal is developing them for some reason that is presently unknown. Overall there appear to be numerous types of pigments in these corals. Most pigments require a specific amount of light intensity and a specific light quality to be developed. This is easily demonstrated by examining a colorful RBSC from its top and then flipping it over and examining it from below. They are usually brown on the bottom low light side and very colorful on the top. This is a normal coloration and corals that are white in the bottom area may have suffered bleaching. Many corals also possess pigments in their polyps that are different from pigments in the main coral body. The "tricolor" Acropora have fluorescent green pigment in their polyps while also possessing a reflective purple pigment in their main body. Some Pocillopora and Stylophora have also possessed a dual reflecting and fluorescing pigment combination. RBSC also possess UV absorption substances called S320. Their function is to absorb UV-B light. These pigments are however colorless and there should be no reason to expose the corals to biologically damaging UV-B. UV-A and violet light however, may help stimulate pigments and will clearly make fluorescent pigments more visible.
 

fatman

Has been struck by the ban stick
Way above my head. I thought the info might be relevant but if it isn't sorry.

It was all relevent, just missing a little to make it fully useful. Even with what I was able to add in the way of the link from Advanced Aquarist there are many corals that are still assumptions as to best lighting. All colors are not availble from all corals as I do not believe all proteins are the same in all corals. I have yet to ever see a study in print that say what colors are possible from many corals. However. I have doubtlessly not read all articles available in print. The information I supplied through the links have more to do with growth rate possibilities sue to the types of symcbiotic algaes in a host, where yours is a bit of that and more on florescence based upon lighting, and less upon growth rates as it did not signify which symbiotic algae is in what species of coral from what part of the ocean. The information overlaps. So it is all useful, as people are concerned with both growth and (color/appearnce of color).
I finally was able to read the article you posted the link to. It is a much better article than I had expected to find. Although some of the wotrk is debatedable it is the most complete article I have seen in that area of study. That is the most complete listing I have ever seen of flourescense possibilities even though it might not be fully accurate, it is stll more likely less flawed then others I have read. Thank you for posting that link. I did not see the until I had already replied twice though, so a lot of what I wrote needed not be written. It sure explains a lot the response of my SPS to higher wave length lighting.
 
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