Whitey1973
Active Member
Try extending it with a piece of flexible air line.... [emoji362] [emoji362][emoji362][emoji362][emoji362]
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your more than welcome my friend! On the 1000 you can just set it to whatever flow you need but also have more than enough power with it.Thanks for that info Shaun, fantastic advice. I already use Eheim 300 compacts to feed the UV and the Reactor, and their pumps are pretty silent......so the 1000 it will be.
Bugger, I've lost another frag. This was a Green Tipped Hammer (Euphyllia). It has been in the tank for two weeks, and looked healthy. Then, it just closed up, and within two days was gone! All the water testing is good. I test for Mag, Calc, Alk, Nitrate, Phos, Salinity. The water temp did rise to 29.5 for one day, but I don't think this was the cause as it is now back to normal at around 26.5
The last ICP test was very good with the only problem being slight traces of Tin, but the amounts showing were minimal, and I've since completed a 100 litre water change to correct that.
Lights are running on the Red Sea settings, with a 20% reduction for acclimatization.
I've been feeding twice a week with Reef Roids.
I've no idea why I keep losing frags.
Left work early, bought some Reef A & B. Skimmer off and it is in the tank. Let's see what happens.
I have connected the Teco TK 1000 chiller and everything looks ok. I tested it by adjusting the temp requirements and found it is pretty quiet. The hot air expelled will cause problems with the wife so I still plan to only run it overnight........
However, my Aqua Medic Temp Controller says the water temp is 27.3.....the Chiller says it is 27.8....which one is correct? The probe for the Aqua Medic is located next to the pump that feeds the chiller. Half a degree is quite a difference.
I don't think it really matters what the actual temperature is within reason, it's the stability.
I believe the design of the Teco is to run it all the time from the feed pump in which case you use the temperature reading from the Teco and you probably don't need to use the separate temperature controller as it will be redundant.
If you only run it at night, that seems to kind of defeat the object of getting the Teco, and your tank temperature will still increase during the day as it does know so you haven't really solved the problem with your high ambient temperature?
To me the options are:
1 Install air con or move to a house with air con.
2 Get a new wife who loves fish tanks and also heat!
3 pretend nothing has changed and she must be imagining it!
4 leave the Teco on all the time and ignore her!
I'm a part time marriage councillor as you can probably tell!