Whitey1973
Active Member
Try extending it with a piece of flexible air line.... [emoji362] [emoji362][emoji362][emoji362][emoji362]
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Nobby's S-650
- Thread starter Nobbygas
- Start date
SPR
Well-Known Member
I had a sun Coral for a while but although they are very beautiful, feeding becomes very tiresome after a while and although I fed daily it didn't seem to like what I fed it and it faded away.
Right to the Teco. You can't feed the Teco from the main pump on a 650 for reasons of flow. If you read the instruction manual for the Max S Series you will see on page 11 were it goes on about chiller options. It's fine on the 400/500 but not the 650. Says use a 2400 l/h feed pump or whatever you need for the chiller specs.
I spoke to Kevin (Red Sea) about this (i have him on speed dial for my times of need!!) when I was looking into the Teco and about to purchase it. I'd got the pipe work and everything ready to connect up to the rear manifold outlet. And then was told it's a no no
I think the Teco is ok with flow of around 1000l/h or thereabouts and I can certainly recommend the Eheim compact 1000. They are virtually silent and that was what I was going to run it with.
I use the Eheim for my UV-C combined rocket launcher/UV steriliser and you can't really hear it.
https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/technology/pumps/compact-1000
Right to the Teco. You can't feed the Teco from the main pump on a 650 for reasons of flow. If you read the instruction manual for the Max S Series you will see on page 11 were it goes on about chiller options. It's fine on the 400/500 but not the 650. Says use a 2400 l/h feed pump or whatever you need for the chiller specs.
I spoke to Kevin (Red Sea) about this (i have him on speed dial for my times of need!!) when I was looking into the Teco and about to purchase it. I'd got the pipe work and everything ready to connect up to the rear manifold outlet. And then was told it's a no no
I think the Teco is ok with flow of around 1000l/h or thereabouts and I can certainly recommend the Eheim compact 1000. They are virtually silent and that was what I was going to run it with.
I use the Eheim for my UV-C combined rocket launcher/UV steriliser and you can't really hear it.
https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/technology/pumps/compact-1000
SPR
Well-Known Member
Your more than welcome my friend! On the 1000 you can just set it to whatever flow you need but also have more than enough power with it.
Bugger, I've lost another frag. This was a Green Tipped Hammer (Euphyllia). It has been in the tank for two weeks, and looked healthy. Then, it just closed up, and within two days was gone! All the water testing is good. I test for Mag, Calc, Alk, Nitrate, Phos, Salinity. The water temp did rise to 29.5 for one day, but I don't think this was the cause as it is now back to normal at around 26.5
The last ICP test was very good with the only problem being slight traces of Tin, but the amounts showing were minimal, and I've since completed a 100 litre water change to correct that.
Lights are running on the Red Sea settings, with a 20% reduction for acclimatization.
I've been feeding twice a week with Reef Roids.
I've no idea why I keep losing frags.
The last ICP test was very good with the only problem being slight traces of Tin, but the amounts showing were minimal, and I've since completed a 100 litre water change to correct that.
Lights are running on the Red Sea settings, with a 20% reduction for acclimatization.
I've been feeding twice a week with Reef Roids.
I've no idea why I keep losing frags.
SPR
Well-Known Member
What is your Alk, Nitrate and phosphate at ? I know some don't like high Alk from when I was running accelerated growth at 12.6dkh.
The temp could have been a cause although not likely. The corals are very sensitive and if they don't like something they just die on you. I know!
I feed Red Sea Reef energy A & B every day, add phytoplankton about twice a week and use reef roids when I remember! Which is not often to be honest as I find it very expensive with the dose you need in a 650. It doesn't last very long at all.
Have you got some up to date tank pictures by the way. We like pictures!
Alk 8.0, Nitrate 0.25, Phos 0, Mag 1350, Calc 450 (all Salifert tests). I dose Triton Reef Supplements daily. Reef Roids maybe twice a week.
In the meantme I've got things like a Leather Mushroom growing nicely. The Florida Ricordia is going wild. The Zoas seem to be existing, but not really growing. The Duncan is growing, so is the Frogspawn.
I'm running out of ideas.
In the meantme I've got things like a Leather Mushroom growing nicely. The Florida Ricordia is going wild. The Zoas seem to be existing, but not really growing. The Duncan is growing, so is the Frogspawn.
I'm running out of ideas.
SPR
Well-Known Member
If your are 0.25ppm Nitrate and 0 phosphate that is ultra low nutrient conditions so maybe you are starving the corals, or at least some of them especially ones that don't use as much light for energy.
I'm currently at about 10ppm Nitrate and 0-0.03 phosphate. I don't know how triton works as far as feeding goes, but I would get some Reef Energy A and B and at those low nutrient levels you dose around 20ml of each (so 40ml total) every day in the 650 depending on estimated water volume. It doesn't affect water quality and don't be alarmed by the crazy glowing green colour when you put it in!! It clears.... and it's kinda groovy!
If your only using reef roids twice a week, and running ultra low that could be the issue as your water may be 'to clean' for something with 'wavy tenticley' things! This is a technical term by the way!
I'm currently at about 10ppm Nitrate and 0-0.03 phosphate. I don't know how triton works as far as feeding goes, but I would get some Reef Energy A and B and at those low nutrient levels you dose around 20ml of each (so 40ml total) every day in the 650 depending on estimated water volume. It doesn't affect water quality and don't be alarmed by the crazy glowing green colour when you put it in!! It clears.... and it's kinda groovy!
If your only using reef roids twice a week, and running ultra low that could be the issue as your water may be 'to clean' for something with 'wavy tenticley' things! This is a technical term by the way!
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SPR
Well-Known Member
Leave skimmer off for around and hour. Longer the better really so it flows around. I leave the cabinet door open to remind me skimmer is off and then turn back on whenever I go back in.
Let me know how you get on with it and you should see a result fairly quickly. Your feeding them so how would you feel if you were starved! Lol.
I also think you'll find it much better value than reef roids. I buy the 1 litre each of A and B and they last ages and it's better value. Just keep in fridge and don't mix it up with ya wine!
PS you can 'like' my posts if you want. Only if you want to like! I like to be popular!
I have connected the Teco TK 1000 chiller and everything looks ok. I tested it by adjusting the temp requirements and found it is pretty quiet. The hot air expelled will cause problems with the wife so I still plan to only run it overnight........
However, my Aqua Medic Temp Controller says the water temp is 27.3.....the Chiller says it is 27.8....which one is correct? The probe for the Aqua Medic is located next to the pump that feeds the chiller. Half a degree is quite a difference.
However, my Aqua Medic Temp Controller says the water temp is 27.3.....the Chiller says it is 27.8....which one is correct? The probe for the Aqua Medic is located next to the pump that feeds the chiller. Half a degree is quite a difference.
SPR
Well-Known Member
I don't think it really matters what the actual temperature is within reason, it's the stability.
I believe the design of the Teco is to run it all the time from the feed pump in which case you use the temperature reading from the Teco and you probably don't need to use the separate temperature controller as it will be redundant.
If you only run it at night, that seems to kind of defeat the object of getting the Teco, and your tank temperature will still increase during the day as it does know so you haven't really solved the problem with your high ambient temperature?
To me the options are:
1 Install air con or move to a house with air con.
2 Get a new wife who loves fish tanks and also heat!
3 pretend nothing has changed and she must be imagining it!
4 leave the Teco on all the time and ignore her!
I'm a part time marriage councillor as you can probably tell!
Whitey1973
Active Member
[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
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Option 1. - No chance.
Option 2. - Tempting, but unrealistic.
Option 3. - Ha, ha, no chance!
Option 4. - Ignore her? I'd lose too much blood !
I think running at night is still the best option. Yes, the water temp will rise during the day due to the ambient temp, but it doesn't move that quickly. If I get to the situation where the water temp is reduced to 27 overnight, and then during the day it rises to 28, then back to 27 overnight, I think I'd be happy with that, especially if the ambient air temp is something like 30+ during the day and 25 overnight. It does pump out a lot of warm air when it's cooling. I'd settle for a one degree swing, but if it turns out to be more than that then I'll need a re-think. Trial and error.
I will remove the Aqua Medic Controller, and the heater in the Sump, as the Teco also heats if required, but it's going to be a fair few months before the heating is required. I've just left it on for now until I'm happy with the Teco. I'm still not totally happy to have a pump push water from the Sump, outside to another device (the Teco) and then moved back to the Sump. It makes me nervous, so for a few days I will only run it when I am there ! I also have to re-jig my rather splendid three-sided stool that I put in the Chiller compartment. The PSU's from the lights, which sat on the stool, will now be sat on the top of the Teco, but I will place some egg-crate underneath them as they do get hot. I then have to knock together a much slimmer stool to place in the front of the Teco to house the Doser.
The good news is that the wife is away this week on a training course, so I can make as much mess as I like, and when she gets home it's all installed, working, and non-negotiable.....I hope !
Oh, and I utilized that bit of Chiller piping that is on the back wall of the Sump. So the tubing goes from the Chiller, onto the end of that pipe, then the other end is has more tubing that drops down into the Return Pump Chamber.
SPR
Well-Known Member
See to me those temperature movements don't seem that much with the ambient heat you have over there. If the night time water temp is still 27c I would have thought that with temp at 35c+ outside in the day, that would have pushed your water temp during the day a lot higher, with no cooling on ?
My water usually goes from 25-6 to 28.5 ish over the day just on a normal summers day at around 23-24c or thereabouts outside. So to me I can control this with a fan and ive just added a simply aquaria controller, just in case the fan overcools and it will kick the heaters on. I managed to buy the only fancy fan, that when it turns off and on I have to press a button to start it so can be completely automated. So the heaters will come on if temp hits 24.7c. Not exactly eco friendly but just a fail safe in case of over cooling while I'm out.
Bottom line is if you can keep it at 27-28c all the time then I would think that's fine anyway and I think you can get a bit OCD with these things. Mine certainly did ok without any control last year varying between 25-29.5 over a few weeks. I think its when you get to 29.5c+ that you may start to get issues.
On the chiller being outside the sump, there is nothing you can really do other than making sure the connections are real tight. The worst that can happen if you had a leak is that you will drain the sump and the return pump will run dry. It wont empty the whole tank (which is what i used to think when I started) as of course when the water level drops eventually it will just be like when you turn the main pump off.
Well I say the worst that can happen if it leaks is an empty sump and 100 litres of water on your floor, but this will of course be followed swiftly afterwards by the removal of your man bits, including blood by your beloved 'she who casts no shadow'!!! lol
My water usually goes from 25-6 to 28.5 ish over the day just on a normal summers day at around 23-24c or thereabouts outside. So to me I can control this with a fan and ive just added a simply aquaria controller, just in case the fan overcools and it will kick the heaters on. I managed to buy the only fancy fan, that when it turns off and on I have to press a button to start it so can be completely automated. So the heaters will come on if temp hits 24.7c. Not exactly eco friendly but just a fail safe in case of over cooling while I'm out.
Bottom line is if you can keep it at 27-28c all the time then I would think that's fine anyway and I think you can get a bit OCD with these things. Mine certainly did ok without any control last year varying between 25-29.5 over a few weeks. I think its when you get to 29.5c+ that you may start to get issues.
On the chiller being outside the sump, there is nothing you can really do other than making sure the connections are real tight. The worst that can happen if you had a leak is that you will drain the sump and the return pump will run dry. It wont empty the whole tank (which is what i used to think when I started) as of course when the water level drops eventually it will just be like when you turn the main pump off.
Well I say the worst that can happen if it leaks is an empty sump and 100 litres of water on your floor, but this will of course be followed swiftly afterwards by the removal of your man bits, including blood by your beloved 'she who casts no shadow'!!! lol
Plus the trip to the hospital to have my Big Bertha Driver surgically removed from my arse !
100 litres of saltwater all over the hardwood floor.......It doesn't bear thinking about!
Last week, the water temp went to 29.8, and we haven't reached peak summer yet. If I can keep it at 27/28 then I'll be happy with that.
100 litres of saltwater all over the hardwood floor.......It doesn't bear thinking about!
Last week, the water temp went to 29.8, and we haven't reached peak summer yet. If I can keep it at 27/28 then I'll be happy with that.
Now......Outside Air Temperature (OAT), Ambient Room Temperature (ART) and Tank Water Temperature (TWT)..........
I think there must be some physics involved here that this old dumb blonde just cannot understand.
My tank temperature is set to 27 degrees on the Chiller. Everything is fine, and once the TWT reaches 28 degrees, the Chiller kicks-in until the TWT is back down to 27 degrees.
We make a lot of attempts to keep ART down around the 24 degrees mark, and most of the time we are successful. However, there are days when I wonder just what is going on. Let's use last Sunday as an example. OAT of 30 degrees. ART of 24 degrees. TWT in the morning was 26 degrees. The ART stayed at 24 degrees all day, but the TWT was constantly rising and finished at 27.9 degrees. Why, if the ART is stable at 24 degrees, does the TWT rise? Is there some correlation with the TWT and the humidity in the room?
Any ideas? Any guesses?
I think there must be some physics involved here that this old dumb blonde just cannot understand.
My tank temperature is set to 27 degrees on the Chiller. Everything is fine, and once the TWT reaches 28 degrees, the Chiller kicks-in until the TWT is back down to 27 degrees.
We make a lot of attempts to keep ART down around the 24 degrees mark, and most of the time we are successful. However, there are days when I wonder just what is going on. Let's use last Sunday as an example. OAT of 30 degrees. ART of 24 degrees. TWT in the morning was 26 degrees. The ART stayed at 24 degrees all day, but the TWT was constantly rising and finished at 27.9 degrees. Why, if the ART is stable at 24 degrees, does the TWT rise? Is there some correlation with the TWT and the humidity in the room?
Any ideas? Any guesses?
Whitey1973
Active Member
I might be thick and not read it right but if you tank water temp is set at 27 and the chiller set to kick in at 28 then it's doing its job isn't it??
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