Newbee with sick fish need help.

Jodi

New Member
My boyfriend and I have a salt water tank and have had it for 2 years now/ You would think I could have made some good decisions on behalf pf my fish. Nope not this girl. I introduced a new fish to my display tank without proper QT.I also bought a Lionfish that eats feeder fish (I.m not sure if that is going to be a problem in regards to parasites) So now I have killed one of the sweetest clown fish and have left his partner lonely and struggling to live and doing a poor job of it. Once I realized what they had I moved all of my fish to our QT and started a hypo-salinity environment. It ded not seem to help nor stress the fish but my poor widow was not looking any better so I went to Exotic Aquarium and spoke with the owner/ He said Hypo-salinity does not work and that we needed to do formalin and a FW dip. So off we ran to change our game plan. I am pretty sure we made things only worse for all of them. Any advise for a couple of idiots like ourselves. For the fishes sake any way. This has been a hard lesson to learn but at what cost.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
Without knowing what disease your dealing with, it is not possible to be of too much help. Posting a good picture of the fish with the disease can help a lot. However, there are several specific parasitic diseases you should look for. I have posted this before, but it's worth repeating here.

DaveK's Standard Lecture #3 – Common parasitic diseases

Look for these three major parasitic diseases that clownfish, and for that matter most other fish tend to get a lot.

1. Ick, officially known as Cryptocaryon irritans - look for small white dots that seem to fall off in a day or two, sometimes leaving behind small circular wounds. Treatment is by hyposalinity or copper.

2. Velvet, or gold dust disease, officially known as Amyloodinium occellatun. Looks like the fish is covered in a coating of gold dust, and the fish is often going around scratching. Treatment is by copper.

3. Clownfish disease, officially known as Brooklynella hostilis. Looks like gray irregular patches. Treatment is Formalin.

All treatments must be done in a quarantine tank.

As a corollary, or possibly "corallary" (grin), I will add the following -

Never, ever medicate a reef system to treat a fish disease.

No matter what the LFS says, no matter what it says on the bottle or package, no matter what someone else may tell you, in my opinion there are no "reef safe" treatments that are effective against fish diseases.

Always treat in a quarantine tank. Although, if you are treating a different disease, you might use a different medication.

Just so everyone is clear on this, I shall repeat this advice -

Never, ever medicate a reef system to treat a fish disease.

---End of the Lecture ---

Some additional thoughts -

If your fish have SW ich, then hyposalinity is the recommended treatment, but if it's something else, then it must be treated differently.

Unless you want to devote the tank to a single fish or get a massive tank, I recommend you return the lionfish to your LFS. They grow fast and get big. 12 inches isn't unusual, and it depends somewhat upon the species you have. The problem is that they can consume fish almost as big as they are. So if you want to keep something with it, you need to have any tank mates about 1 1/2 times the size of the lionfish. This means you need a massive tank if you want to have more than just a lionfish.

The feeder fish you feed to a lionfish should be SW fish of some sort. Using guppies, rosy reds, goldfish or other FW fish do not provide a complete diet. The good news is that with care, and some work, you can train the fish to accept frozen foods such as silversides.

The one other downside to lionfish is that they are venomous, which means keeping a constant eye on them when ever your working on the tank. You always need to know where the fish is,
 

Jodi

New Member
Without knowing what disease your dealing with, it is not possible to be of too much help. Posting a good picture of the fish with the disease can help a lot. However, there are several specific parasitic diseases you should look for. I have posted this before, but it's worth repeating here.

DaveK's Standard Lecture #3 – Common parasitic diseases

Look for these three major parasitic diseases that clownfish, and for that matter most other fish tend to get a lot.

1. Ick, officially known as Cryptocaryon irritans - look for small white dots that seem to fall off in a day or two, sometimes leaving behind small circular wounds. Treatment is by hyposalinity or copper.

2. Velvet, or gold dust disease, officially known as Amyloodinium occellatun. Looks like the fish is covered in a coating of gold dust, and the fish is often going around scratching. Treatment is by copper.

3. Clownfish disease, officially known as Brooklynella hostilis. Looks like gray irregular patches. Treatment is Formalin.

All treatments must be done in a quarantine tank.

As a corollary, or possibly "corallary" (grin), I will add the following -

Never, ever medicate a reef system to treat a fish disease.

No matter what the LFS says, no matter what it says on the bottle or package, no matter what someone else may tell you, in my opinion there are no "reef safe" treatments that are effective against fish diseases.

Always treat in a quarantine tank. Although, if you are treating a different disease, you might use a different medication.

Just so everyone is clear on this, I shall repeat this advice -

Never, ever medicate a reef system to treat a fish disease.

---End of the Lecture ---

Some additional thoughts -

If your fish have SW ich, then hyposalinity is the recommended treatment, but if it's something else, then it must be treated differently.

Unless you want to devote the tank to a single fish or get a massive tank, I recommend you return the lionfish to your LFS. They grow fast and get big. 12 inches isn't unusual, and it depends somewhat upon the species you have. The problem is that they can consume fish almost as big as they are. So if you want to keep something with it, you need to have any tank mates about 1 1/2 times the size of the lionfish. This means you need a massive tank if you want to have more than just a lionfish.

The feeder fish you feed to a lionfish should be SW fish of some sort. Using guppies, rosy reds, goldfish or other FW fish do not provide a complete diet. The good news is that with care, and some work, you can train the fish to accept frozen foods such as silversides.

The one other downside to lionfish is that they are venomous, which means keeping a constant eye on them when ever your working on the tank. You always need to know where the fish is,
 

Jodi

New Member
I am convinced that it is Ick but I am more worried about the stress of changing our attack plan per the advice of LFS because the fish look really bad now. We should have waited on the hypo-salinity treatment tp work or given it a chance at least before switching gears to FW dip and Formalin. Then to top it off we read that these parasites drop off into the sand when impregnated and reattach once multiplied. So we took the sand out with the poor fish already freaking out and did a 50% water change. Wow we are such ass holes. One would expect your contact at LFS to be giving you correct info but who is to say who you can trust/ Thank you for your input and if you can think or anything else that could help us or them let us know.
 

Jodi

New Member
I am convinced that it is Ick but I am more worried about the stress of changing our attack plan per the advice of LFS because the fish look really bad now. We should have waited on the hypo-salinity treatment tp work or given it a chance at least before switching gears to FW dip and Formalin. Then to top it off we read that these parasites drop off into the sand when impregnated and reattach once multiplied. So we took the sand out with the poor fish already freaking out and did a 50% water change. Wow we are such ass holes. One would expect your contact at LFS to be giving you correct info but who is to say who you can trust/ Thank you for your input and if you can think or anything else that could help us or them let us know.
Oh and the lioinfish has doubled his size iin a month so yes we need to make a decision on what we should do.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
,,. One would expect your contact at LFS to be giving you correct info but who is to say who you can trust/ ...

If you take nothing else away from this forum, at least learn that most people you'll run into at your LFS are completely clueless when it comes to any kind of advanced aquarium system. Sometime a store will have only a single person that knows anything about reef systems. Often the knowledge they have is obsolete or just wrong. Another factor is that they want to sell you products.

It's OK to consider their advice, but make sure you verify it.

Case in point, to use hyopsalinity, all you need is water to lower your SG, and later some reef salt to raise the SG back up.
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
some good advise ^ and a great read...

Lee Birch's (Chemist and Microbiologist) Advice on Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans)

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to ReefSanctuary, a real Sanctuary of reef forums, with lots of very nice members

Start a tank thread & share your tank with us so we can follow along, we love pics :nessie:
 
Sorry to hear about your fish. I am a bit confused though. You said you pulled the fish out and put them in a QT tank but then later mentioned taking the sand out. A QT tank should be empty with no rock or sand. Just a bare tank with a simple sponge filter. Then you treat the fish with copper to kill the ich.
You can try hyposalinity as a treatment but the salinity needs to be brought pretty far down and stay there for some time. I forget the details but they are in the thread linked above. It is very detailed and you should definitely read it even if it is too late for your fish. I hope it is not but having been through it I know the possibilities.
Not to give you false hope by any means but you can try adding garlic to their food. Many people say that it helps boost their immune system. Not a cure by any means but I always add it to my fish's food. I don't know if it has helped any but it doesn't seem to hurt.
 
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