Minicrazy's FW 55g Build

[minicrazy592]

So basically I have a 55g tank laying around. It was my Oscar tank till about last Christmas when I moved to Katy. I gave away my baby Oscar and my 14in Sailfin Pleco and tore down the tank. My tank has since moved to Houston with my parents, with me down in here in Corpus Christi going to school. I still have my 10 FW tank at home busting at the seams with guppies, I had a guppy farm before I went off to college. So my Dad wanted to set it up again and put them in it. I'm creating this thread basically to chronicle it.

Me and my Dad's plan for it is to build a stand next week when I come home for Thanksgiving, set up the tank, throw a few guppies in it to start the cycling, and put the rest in it in a few weeks.

I would like it to be a planted tank eventually, but for now, it is going to be the guppie tank because he hasn't set a budget for me yet nor is he all that interested in tanks. That being said, I'm going to set up the tank with a sandy base mixed with generic potting soil for the possibility of it. I'm still debating if I should splurge for some dedicated soil or not though. Lighting will most likely start out as either nothing or generic florescence's till I can convince him to get T-5s. Heck we may even use Home Depot clip on fixtures with 5k bulbs. :laughroll



Specs:
1 48x12x21 55g Tank*
2 AquaClear 301 Powerheads placed on the corners, opposite of each other
1 Tetra 60g? Filter* placed in the middle
1 TetraTec DW96 Air Pump
2 100w Stealth Heaters

* already have

Now for the stand.....
It is going to be built out of 2x4s and I'm not worried about looks. It's 3'4" tall, with a grand height of 5'1" with the tank on top. It will have an open shelf below the aquarium with space below it for future cabinets/hiding spot/quarantine tank. I included pics of the plans for everyone to get an idea about it because I feel as though I have over engineered it just a tad. :square:

Pics of the stand:

Cross Section

Front

Side

Questions:
If the possibility of this being a planted aquarium, what is the best, cheapest base to have?

What is the best method to keep this as low of maintenance as possible for my Dad? I don't like coming home to a nasty tank every month or so.

Would you recommend different filtration?


Finally, this whole build rest on the terms of some kind of a budget/time so if this some how goes completely different than planned, my apologies in advance.

 

[minicrazy592]

So I talked to my Dad and explained what I had planned out. He's completely fine with it down to upgrading the filters to a canister and going full T-5s for the lighting. I'm so glad I showed him this picture.

 

[minicrazy592]

Can I get some recommendations on a canister filter?

 

[PEMfish]

We need to change some of these plans.

Do NOT add any fish at all until the cycle is over, then start adding them slowly, maybe a half dozen every other week. To get the cycle going without fish through a small pinch of food in there.

Do NOT put potting soil in the tank. It will wreck the water. Nitrates and phosphates through the roof and at best; you will be able to see an inch or two into the water.
Use a fine gravel or sand meant for aquariums. Red flint will work too, you can buy it for about $15 for a 50lb bag. The draw back is it takes about a whole day to rinse it. Fluorite is a great substrate for FW planted. It costs about $20 for a 15lb bag. You can mix it with other inert substrates if the color isnt to far off. I did a 50/50 mix of the flint and Fluorite in my 65g. For planted expect to need about 90lbs of substrate in a 55.

Your gonna need to redesign the stand. That wont cut it. You only have the tank supported at the corners. The legs should stop before the tank. Those cross members between the legs wont take any weight. Uneven weight distribution will try to warp the glass. If you ever try to bend a piece of glass you will wind up picking shards of it out of your eyes.
You should have a rectangle at the top that the tank sits on and one on the bottom. The legs should run between them.
Also, putting a sheet of ply under the tank isnt a bad idea, infact, its a great one.
Those triangular corner braces are cute but arent really needed.
When you design the stand make it so the it can stand on its own without a drop of glue or single screw. That way when you build it all the weight will be on the wood, not the fasteners.


If you go T5 DO be sure you get a quality fixture. The Coralife Aqualight dose NOT qualify as one. You want to look for;
Individual reflectors for each bulb. A good reflector will have many bends, not just 4 or 5.
Cooling fans
Electronic ballasts
And also look at how you will mount it to the tank. Dose it come with a set a flimsy legs that hold it above the tank? Or can you mount it to the inside of a hood?
Is it T5 HO ( high out put ) or just T5. For a 48" bulb it should be 54w. ( HO ). If its anything less dont bother, its not HO.

If you go with a canister filter I strongly recomend the Fluval. The 405 would be the size for you.

 

[PEMfish]

You might be able to getaway without a center set of legs but I wouldn't recomend trying on a 4 foot. Also, on a stand that high ( 40" ) and narrow ( 13" ) your gonna need to bolt it to a stud in the wall.
My 65g is 18" wide and the stand is 36" tall, it was border line for needing to be bolted.
This would be a better design;

 

[minicrazy592]

We need to change some of these plans.

Do NOT add any fish at all until the cycle is over, then start adding them slowly, maybe a half dozen every other week. To get the cycle going without fish through a small pinch of food in there.

Alrighty I can hold off. I was just going to throw 2 or 3 in there from my 10g to get the cycling started, I have plenty to spare. This isn't like my 20g situation where it was a matter of life or death for my fish in terms of throwing them in the tank, so I can wait.

Do NOT put potting soil in the tank. It will wreck the water. Nitrates and phosphates through the roof and at best; you will be able to see an inch or two into the water.
Use a fine gravel or sand meant for aquariums. Red flint will work too, you can buy it for about $15 for a 50lb bag. The draw back is it takes about a whole day to rinse it. Fluorite is a great substrate for FW planted. It costs about $20 for a 15lb bag. You can mix it with other inert substrates if the color isnt to far off. I did a 50/50 mix of the flint and Fluorite in my 65g. For planted expect to need about 90lbs of substrate in a 55.

I read about the soil mix on another forum and I wasn't too sure about it from the get go. How is the flourite once it hits the water? Is it hard, gummy, sandy, etc? My plan was to have the actual plant substrate under my rock/sand substrate. Is it ok if I do this? It isn't a big deal if I have to mix it, I would just prefer it like that. Also, to test if the rocks are inert, I drop a small amount in vinegar right?

Your gonna need to redesign the stand. That wont cut it. You only have the tank supported at the corners. The legs should stop before the tank. Those cross members between the legs wont take any weight. Uneven weight distribution will try to warp the glass. If you ever try to bend a piece of glass you will wind up picking shards of it out of your eyes.
You should have a rectangle at the top that the tank sits on and one on the bottom. The legs should run between them.
Also, putting a sheet of ply under the tank isnt a bad idea, infact, its a great one.
Those triangular corner braces are cute but arent really needed.
When you design the stand make it so the it can stand on its own without a drop of glue or single screw. That way when you build it all the weight will be on the wood, not the fasteners.

Sent you a PM

If you go T5 DO be sure you get a quality fixture. The Coralife Aqualight dose NOT qualify as one. You want to look for;
Individual reflectors for each bulb. A good reflector will have many bends, not just 4 or 5.
Cooling fans
Electronic ballasts
And also look at how you will mount it to the tank. Dose it come with a set a flimsy legs that hold it above the tank? Or can you mount it to the inside of a hood?
Is it T5 HO ( high out put ) or just T5. For a 48" bulb it should be 54w. ( HO ). If its anything less dont bother, its not HO.

What fixture would you recommend? I have had good luck with the coralifes I have had (CF and T5), so I just planned on going with something I knew.

If you go with a canister filter I strongly recomend the Fluval. The 405 would be the size for you.

That's the one I've been looking at, but I thought it was a little bit of overkill. Can you send me a link of how exactly you set up a canister filter? I've never used one before, I still even have HOB filters on my SW. :dunce:

 

[minicrazy592]

I just had a random thought, would I have to secure the stand if I made it wider?

 

[DaveK]

I just had a random thought, would I have to secure the stand if I made it wider?

Actually, making it wider would be an excellent idea. If possible, I'd make it 24 inches wide so it will accommodate a much larger tank.

As for canister filters, I'd recommend an Eheim. Something like their professional 2 model would be good. Yes, they do cost a lot more, but they will outlast anything else. Also, replacement parts are available, just in case you break something. Various Eheim media will also allow you to fine tune to filtration system for your tank.

Personally, I consider dense planted tanks the easiest to maintain but others may feel differently.

 

[PEMfish]

Vinegar isnt a strong enough acid to tell anything. They easiest way to tell is see if the bag it comes in says aqarium on it. Stay away from crushed coral though.

Nova Extreme T5HOx2 | Current What's Next
You would need your own fan. Thats no big deal though, easy to install.

I'll try to answer the canister question, if i miss let me know.
The canister witch is the filter sits in the stand. Hoses are run from the tank to the filter and back.

 

[PEMfish]

Actually, making it wider would be an excellent idea. If possible, I'd make it 24 inches wide so it will accommodate a much larger tank.

He already has the 55g.

As for canister filters, I'd recommend an Eheim. Something like their professional 2 model would be good. Yes, they do cost a lot more, but they will outlast anything else. Also, replacement parts are available, just in case you break something. Various Eheim media will also allow you to fine tune to filtration system for your tank.

Look up the cost of those before you fall in love. You can put any kind of media in the Fluvial too. The Eheims are nice but Hagen makes a sturdy filter too.

Personally, I consider dense planted tanks the easiest to maintain but others may feel differently.

 

[minicrazy592]

Vinegar isnt a strong enough acid to tell anything. They easiest way to tell is see if the bag it comes in says aqarium on it. Stay away from crushed coral though.

Nova Extreme T5HOx2 | Current What's Next
You would need your own fan. Thats no big deal though, easy to install.

I'll try to answer the canister question, if i miss let me know.
The canister witch is the filter sits in the stand. Hoses are run from the tank to the filter and back.

Are there any power heads, etc on the bits that are in the tank or is it just the end of a hose?

Also on the lighting, is there possibly a cheaper alternative? I don't want to scare my dad too badly with prices.

 

[minicrazy592]

Making it wider would help with the stability problem which is why I thought of it. The Eheim 2227 doesn't have the same filtration rating as the Fluval 405, but it is $40 cheaper. I have to keep cost in mind, minus the stand, with this build.

 

[PEMfish]

Are there any power heads, etc on the bits that are in the tank or is it just the end of a hose?

Also on the lighting, is there possibly a cheaper alternative? I don't want to scare my dad too badly with prices.

The Nova extrema 2x T5 HO is very cost efficient. Under $130 I think. You were looking at 4 and 8 bulb ones. The 2 is more reasonable.

 

[burntricer]

note; i built a stand as high as the one you have designed.

you will regret it, its hard to reach the bottom of the tank (mines a 55 gal)
you definatley willl want to re-consider

 

[PEMfish]

The stand I have for my 65 is 36". The tank is 24". The top rim is 5' off the ground, I need a chair to stand on if I want to work in the tank but to me the height is worth it.

 

[minicrazy592]

The Nova extrema 2x T5 HO is very cost efficient. Under $130 I think. You were looking at 4 and 8 bulb ones. The 2 is more reasonable.

Yeah I was looking at the wrong ones, those are much more reasonable. I am assuming you were recommending the 48in?

 

[minicrazy592]

note; i built a stand as high as the one you have designed.

you will regret it, its hard to reach the bottom of the tank (mines a 55 gal)
you definatley willl want to re-consider

The stand I have for my 65 is 36". The tank is 24". The top rim is 5' off the ground, I need a chair to stand on if I want to work in the tank but to me the height is worth it.

I too like the height. Me and my dad are 6'2" so cleaning shouldn't be too much trouble.

 

[minicrazy592]

Okay so I redesigned the stand. If anyone wants the SU model, PM me your email and I will send it your way.

 

[DaveK]

Making it wider would help with the stability problem which is why I thought of it. The Eheim 2227 doesn't have the same filtration rating as the Fluval 405, but it is $40 cheaper. I have to keep cost in mind, minus the stand, with this build.

Yes, the Fluval is less expensive. However, it's not nearly as good a product. I know this from experience. You'll replace a Fluval several times before you replace a Eheim.

When it come to equipment, and this is all equipment, not just filter systems, always get top quality. Yes, it will cost more up front, but long term it's the least expensive. Or as the accountants say "has the lowest cost of ownership".

 

[PEMfish]

That stand is way oversized. You need to cut the size of it down. You only want about a half inch extra on each side.

The tank is sitting on the ply with no support under it, the 2x4 is 6" over... Not good. The only support under the tank is the middle cross member. That will cause the glass to try to bend, we all know whats gonna happen then.

When you fix that keep in mind the tank isnt exactly 48x 12x 18". Probably more like 48.5x 12.5x 19". Measure it or call home and have it measured.