Full instructions on ensuring you are running your Max 250 correctly to optimise the temperature are available from www.redseamax.com, or you can siimply copy and paste the following link:
Red Sea MAX | Downloads
Red Sea MAX | Downloads
Max 250 temperature control
- Thread starter steveh
- Start date
For optimum conditions a reef aquarium should be maintained at a stable water temperature in the range of 24-28°C /
76-82°F (the stability of the temperature being more important than the exact value). Slightly higher temperatures can be
tolerated for short periods of time as long as the change in temperature is steady and not sudden.
Most reef-keepers consider the installation of a chiller to be a basic necessity as a safeguard against sudden increases in
temperature. Given the cost of livestock, Red Sea recommends installing a chiller as a safeguard against sudden increases
in temperature.
The MAX is a closed top aquarium which significantly reduces the natural evaporation of water; however it also reduces the
cooling effect that is a natural part of the evaporation process.
The water cooling fans located at the back of the aquarium can be used to induce evaporation cooling of the aquarium
water however to be effective the water level in the filter compartment must be maintained between the minimum and
optimum levels i.e. 6-7 notches down from the top of the viewing window.
optimum
water level
With the correct water level and the water cooling fans operating 24/7, the MAX water temperature will rise approx 4°C
above room temperature
In a well ventilated room with a stable ambient temperature of approximately 22°C it should be possible to maintain the
water temperature within the required range by using the water cooling fans however above this temperature a chiller
may be necessary. In ambient temperatures of 23°C and above a chiller of at least 1/6HP should be used.
Keep it in the range!
24-28°C (76-82°F)
MAX 250 | Temperature Control
Directions:
1. Ensure the aquarium heater/thermostat has been set to 26°C and is working properly (refer to the manual for details).
2. Ensure the dual water-cooling fans at the rear of the aquarium are operating properly. Please note that these will wear over time and are a consumable replacement. They are available from Max stockists and require no tools to replace.
3. Check that the filter foams are not pushed down on to the pumps, as this can restrict the flow of water, leading to overheating of the pumps.
4. Use the fine-filter cartridge ONLY for short periods in order to ‘polish’ the water. The cartridge contains a fine-weave pad which will block quickly if left in constant use, resulting in a restriction in water flow to the filter.
5. Using the water level viewing window on the left hand side of the aquarium, set the aquarium so the water level in the filter compartment is between 6-7 notches from the top of the window. This is easily achieved as follows:
(a) Ensure the aquarium is filled to the recommended level
(b) Raise the filter shutter to its highest position
(c) Wait 2-3 minutes while the water level in the filter compartment stabilises and note the level in water level viewing window.
If the water level in the filter is higher than 6-7 notches from the top, you should remove some water from the main aquarium in small amounts until the desired level is achieved.
If the water level in the filter is lower than 6-7 notches from the top, you should add water to the main aquarium in small amounts until the desired level is achieved.
In neither case should you use the shutter position in order to adjust the water level in the filter.
The aquarium water level should be monitored daily in order to evaluate, and if necessary top up the Max due to evaporation. This will both maximise the effectiveness of the filter, and help to maintain a stable temperature.
If you are away from the aquarium for more than 24hrs you may need to lower the shutter slightly to allow for evaporation. Please note however that this will reduce the water-cooling effect slightly and may increase overall water temperature by approx 1°C.
If, as is recommended you add a chiller then a unit of approx 1/6Hp is ideal.
Refer to the manual for instructions on installation.
If a chiller is installed then the water level in the filter compartment should be raised to 3 – 4 notches below the top as this will reduce the water loss due to evaporation.
76-82°F (the stability of the temperature being more important than the exact value). Slightly higher temperatures can be
tolerated for short periods of time as long as the change in temperature is steady and not sudden.
Most reef-keepers consider the installation of a chiller to be a basic necessity as a safeguard against sudden increases in
temperature. Given the cost of livestock, Red Sea recommends installing a chiller as a safeguard against sudden increases
in temperature.
The MAX is a closed top aquarium which significantly reduces the natural evaporation of water; however it also reduces the
cooling effect that is a natural part of the evaporation process.
The water cooling fans located at the back of the aquarium can be used to induce evaporation cooling of the aquarium
water however to be effective the water level in the filter compartment must be maintained between the minimum and
optimum levels i.e. 6-7 notches down from the top of the viewing window.
optimum
water level
With the correct water level and the water cooling fans operating 24/7, the MAX water temperature will rise approx 4°C
above room temperature
In a well ventilated room with a stable ambient temperature of approximately 22°C it should be possible to maintain the
water temperature within the required range by using the water cooling fans however above this temperature a chiller
may be necessary. In ambient temperatures of 23°C and above a chiller of at least 1/6HP should be used.
Keep it in the range!
24-28°C (76-82°F)
MAX 250 | Temperature Control
Directions:
1. Ensure the aquarium heater/thermostat has been set to 26°C and is working properly (refer to the manual for details).
2. Ensure the dual water-cooling fans at the rear of the aquarium are operating properly. Please note that these will wear over time and are a consumable replacement. They are available from Max stockists and require no tools to replace.
3. Check that the filter foams are not pushed down on to the pumps, as this can restrict the flow of water, leading to overheating of the pumps.
4. Use the fine-filter cartridge ONLY for short periods in order to ‘polish’ the water. The cartridge contains a fine-weave pad which will block quickly if left in constant use, resulting in a restriction in water flow to the filter.
5. Using the water level viewing window on the left hand side of the aquarium, set the aquarium so the water level in the filter compartment is between 6-7 notches from the top of the window. This is easily achieved as follows:
(a) Ensure the aquarium is filled to the recommended level
(b) Raise the filter shutter to its highest position
(c) Wait 2-3 minutes while the water level in the filter compartment stabilises and note the level in water level viewing window.
If the water level in the filter is higher than 6-7 notches from the top, you should remove some water from the main aquarium in small amounts until the desired level is achieved.
If the water level in the filter is lower than 6-7 notches from the top, you should add water to the main aquarium in small amounts until the desired level is achieved.
In neither case should you use the shutter position in order to adjust the water level in the filter.
The aquarium water level should be monitored daily in order to evaluate, and if necessary top up the Max due to evaporation. This will both maximise the effectiveness of the filter, and help to maintain a stable temperature.
If you are away from the aquarium for more than 24hrs you may need to lower the shutter slightly to allow for evaporation. Please note however that this will reduce the water-cooling effect slightly and may increase overall water temperature by approx 1°C.
If, as is recommended you add a chiller then a unit of approx 1/6Hp is ideal.
Refer to the manual for instructions on installation.
If a chiller is installed then the water level in the filter compartment should be raised to 3 – 4 notches below the top as this will reduce the water loss due to evaporation.
Nowellsy SNR
Active Member
Nice Glenn
I have just realized that soon as i stoped using the water cooling fans over 10 days ago i've not topped the tank up with water yet....
I have just realized that soon as i stoped using the water cooling fans over 10 days ago i've not topped the tank up with water yet....
On my 130D I don't have to use my water cooling fan, I am sure it does cause quite a bit of evaporation.
I am glad to read this post... because I can see the "best" water level for a 250, is far from the 130D, as I run my 130D water level between the top two lines.
Seems like without a chiller... in the 250's they are saying water level is the key & is correlated to how the fans blows down on the water to cool at this level between the 6-7 notches...
Being I am still running my RSM stock with great success, I would encourage everyone to follow the above suggestions from RSM & SteveH exactly & report back !
Of course if you get a chiller... you solve the problem & can turn off the fans to save on evaporation too.
I am glad to read this post... because I can see the "best" water level for a 250, is far from the 130D, as I run my 130D water level between the top two lines.
Seems like without a chiller... in the 250's they are saying water level is the key & is correlated to how the fans blows down on the water to cool at this level between the 6-7 notches...
Being I am still running my RSM stock with great success, I would encourage everyone to follow the above suggestions from RSM & SteveH exactly & report back !
Of course if you get a chiller... you solve the problem & can turn off the fans to save on evaporation too.
Nowellsy SNR
Active Member
lol me being a numty went out abd bought 50 litres of RO Water 10 days ago still not used a drop and i need to containers for my Salt water this weekend...
I've never had to use the heater - it's always switched off.
Glen, I like to run my 250 between the two lines, too. Changing it 6-7 notches down will mean the skimmer would have to be adjusted.
Shame chillers are not cheaper and we could all have one. RedSea should rebrand one and sell it (cheap) as an add-on to the max.
Glen, I like to run my 250 between the two lines, too. Changing it 6-7 notches down will mean the skimmer would have to be adjusted.
Shame chillers are not cheaper and we could all have one. RedSea should rebrand one and sell it (cheap) as an add-on to the max.
That is a great full instructions on ensuring you are running your Max 250 correctly to optimize the temperature...
________________
Refrigerator water filters
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Refrigerator water filters
Why does the RSM 250 user manual say optimal water level of 3 nothches down from the top on page 29
maybe steveh - will be able to help -
he started this thread & for anyone new that does not know... Steve is on staff with RSM as a senior company Rep. (I think that is is title, someone correct me if it's not)...
he started this thread & for anyone new that does not know... Steve is on staff with RSM as a senior company Rep. (I think that is is title, someone correct me if it's not)...
manojkoushik
Member
I have a RSM 250 and I maintain the water just a tad under the 3rd notch from the top. I do have a 1/10 hp chiller and my temp is always between 76.4 and 77.4 F. The fans are always on as well and my ATO consumes about 5 gallons in 7 days. Which is great because at this point I know exactly how much Kalk & vinegar I need to use to match my current consumption rate. (use about 40ml of vinegar and 2 tsps of kalk per gallon of water).
What do you guys notice?
What do you guys notice?
manojkoushik
Member
kalkwasser
good read. Basically the vinegar takes the kalk through the reactions for Ca++ and also helps control Nitrates. Basically like VSV dosing, except only using vinegar and no vodka and sugar. Seems to be working great. My nitrates rarely go beyond 0.5 ppm. And no bacterial bloom either with the ratios I am using
good read. Basically the vinegar takes the kalk through the reactions for Ca++ and also helps control Nitrates. Basically like VSV dosing, except only using vinegar and no vodka and sugar. Seems to be working great. My nitrates rarely go beyond 0.5 ppm. And no bacterial bloom either with the ratios I am using
manojkoushik
Member
I should mention my pH stays between 8.15 and 8.25 and my Ca stays at 455 with the current level of dosing and tank consumption rate.
might help some... related to water levels...
Bump... of a post... some new RSM 250 owners may have never seen
SteveH - works for Red Sea
SteveH - works for Red Sea
Bathtub
Member
If possible- and know it isn't easy with an RSM! I would say you should run 2x smaller heaters (especially if you have no chiller!)- in the event of one sticking on you have a longer beffer period, or the event of 1 failing you have some heat input.
I would also say that stepping out below this temperature is also ok- and +1 that stability is the key to reducing stress.
Lower temperatures are generally considered healthier due to such things as higher o2 levels in cooler water etc- so I have my tank set to 24c (when it hits 25 it gets chilled back).
I have never seen the heater come on yet (in fact thinking about it I have asked wife to turn it off after reading the heater failure thread- so no surprise)...
I would also say that stepping out below this temperature is also ok- and +1 that stability is the key to reducing stress.
Lower temperatures are generally considered healthier due to such things as higher o2 levels in cooler water etc- so I have my tank set to 24c (when it hits 25 it gets chilled back).
I have never seen the heater come on yet (in fact thinking about it I have asked wife to turn it off after reading the heater failure thread- so no surprise)...