jusbechillin
Member
Canopy is stained and trimwork is done.....
Anyways heres a pic of the canopy.
Anyways heres a pic of the canopy.
Jusbechillin's 210 gallon Build
- Thread starter jusbechillin
- Start date
jusbechillin
Member
I tested the water and all is well so I threw a couple fish in. Until now there was just 250+lbs cured live rock, 100+lbs sand, and a couple crab/snails.
I moved a Clown, Angel, and a Yellow Tang(he is gonna play shy for a day or two) from the QT. All are eating in the new tank and appear to have taken the transfer well thus far.
As you can see in the picture I added crown molding to cover the bottom trim on the tank.
Also my bro was over and was commenting on how unsightly the three visible pvc pipes in the sand were. So we found some tonga rock (I think thats what its called) and hid them the best we could. Once the pipe gets some growth on it I dont think they will be visible at all.
I moved a Clown, Angel, and a Yellow Tang(he is gonna play shy for a day or two) from the QT. All are eating in the new tank and appear to have taken the transfer well thus far.
As you can see in the picture I added crown molding to cover the bottom trim on the tank.
Also my bro was over and was commenting on how unsightly the three visible pvc pipes in the sand were. So we found some tonga rock (I think thats what its called) and hid them the best we could. Once the pipe gets some growth on it I dont think they will be visible at all.
jusbechillin
Member
Why yes it is!
jusbechillin
Member
He hasnt picked at any corals in the current 220 gallon Im tearing down. I will keep an eye on him. I got him from a guy who had him in a 200+ gallon reef.
rmlevasseur
Active Member
Regarding your overflow system: does only one of the three drains actually drain and the other two are emergency drains?
My only thought is if that airline tubing clogs, then you are at risk of drains #1 and #2 failing, and depending on your flow the final third drain couldn't handle the overflow anyway. Perhaps with your closed loop your flow thru the sump is pretty low anyway?
My only thought is if that airline tubing clogs, then you are at risk of drains #1 and #2 failing, and depending on your flow the final third drain couldn't handle the overflow anyway. Perhaps with your closed loop your flow thru the sump is pretty low anyway?
jusbechillin
Member
Read up here
BeanAnimal's Bar and Grill - Silent and Fail-Safe Overflow System
It is completely silent and very failsafe.
I run approx 1500 gph through my sump.
BeanAnimal's Bar and Grill - Silent and Fail-Safe Overflow System
It is completely silent and very failsafe.
I run approx 1500 gph through my sump.
jusbechillin
Member
And if the airline tubing clogs then it would force the water through that drain quicker not stop it all together... Hard to explain but if you read up on it OR try it yourself you'll see. I dont think Ill ever run a tank again without it. My current 220 is so loud I could shoot myself! The new 210 you can not here run. The hum of my Dart is the only thing I can hear.
jusbechillin
Member
So I rec'vd my new fans in the mail today as well as a r/o shutoff valve.
Heres what I plan on doing for an ATO. R/O D/I unit ran to a float valve. When the float is up pressure builds and then turns off the r/o unit. In the case that the valve sticks (which happened to me once already) here is the second failsafe. I bought this r/o leak detector. It comes with a piece which you would put below an R/O unit. Once water touches it the valve rotates and alarms you. I plan on replacing the sensor they give with a float switch which I ordered today. I will mount the float switch above normal water level in the sump. Make sense?
Ill have to read this again later and try to explain better if I am not making any sense....
Heres what I plan on doing for an ATO. R/O D/I unit ran to a float valve. When the float is up pressure builds and then turns off the r/o unit. In the case that the valve sticks (which happened to me once already) here is the second failsafe. I bought this r/o leak detector. It comes with a piece which you would put below an R/O unit. Once water touches it the valve rotates and alarms you. I plan on replacing the sensor they give with a float switch which I ordered today. I will mount the float switch above normal water level in the sump. Make sense?
Ill have to read this again later and try to explain better if I am not making any sense....
rmlevasseur
Active Member
I have read bean's thread. My concern isn't what would happen if it clogged while it was running, it is what would happen if it clogged and you restarted the system. The only reason I mention it is becausde my dursos have failed on a few occasions, and when they have the only thing I could come up with is that the air holes were just a little plugged up.
Don't get me wrong, I ain't knocking it, I just think three regular dursos are safer.
BTW, that canopy is beautiful!
jusbechillin
Member
No offense taken.
I feel very comfortable with the overflow system but I see where you are coming from.
Thanks for the comment on the canopy!
I feel very comfortable with the overflow system but I see where you are coming from.
Thanks for the comment on the canopy!
jusbechillin
Member
Well just an update. I rec'vd my Lumenbrights today! These suckers are HUGE! I took a couple of minutes to get them hung and wired because my corals are begging for light. I realize some wire maintenance will be in order but I have an early morning tomorrow. Anyways here's a pic or two.
Also you can see the way I mounted my fans. I have four total in the canopy and my neptune Jr. will control when they come on and off.
Also you can see the way I mounted my fans. I have four total in the canopy and my neptune Jr. will control when they come on and off.
jusbechillin
Member
Oh yeah...
I also got some Cheato from a friend and built a spray bar for the refugium....
Heres a picture of the live rock rubble I placed in the sump.
I also got some Cheato from a friend and built a spray bar for the refugium....
Heres a picture of the live rock rubble I placed in the sump.
evallarta1
Member
Looks awesome man, very impressed. I have two questions for you. First where does your return from the sump flow into the tank? Is it the PVC on the far left at the top? And where is your intake for your closed loop?
jusbechillin
Member
The water returns to the tank on the top right.
Intake for closed loop are on the back of the tank on the right.
Intake for closed loop are on the back of the tank on the right.
jusbechillin
Member
Well I need to setup the ATO soon because adding water daily to the tank is a PITA. Anyways heres the plan...
r/o connected to a float valve. Once the float valve closes water pressure builds up in the line and once it reaches 25psi the check valve/automatic shutoff valve turns the r/o off so waste water doesnt just keep running... CHECK VALVES & ASO VALVES
Now in case the valve leaks/sticks/explodes/implodes/etc..... I bought a "leak controller" Custom Aquatic - Store - Reverse Osmosis - Float Switches | Leak Detectors - [ Leak Controller For Ro Units W/1/4-In. Connections ]
. Here is a picture of the sensor they plan on having you mount in the cabinet below your r/o system.
Basically if the unit leaks it gets wet and connects the circuit telling the unit to shut off.... In this case if my water level in my tank/sump gets high enough to leak on the ground Im in deep doodoo.... SO I bought a float sensor online and wired it in.
Liquid Level Sensors from Chicago Sensor, Inc.
Now I will mount the float sensor an inch or so above the desired water level. If something happens the sensor will trigger the leak detector to shut off the r/o to the tank...
Next I have to mount the system in my sump...
r/o connected to a float valve. Once the float valve closes water pressure builds up in the line and once it reaches 25psi the check valve/automatic shutoff valve turns the r/o off so waste water doesnt just keep running... CHECK VALVES & ASO VALVES
Now in case the valve leaks/sticks/explodes/implodes/etc..... I bought a "leak controller" Custom Aquatic - Store - Reverse Osmosis - Float Switches | Leak Detectors - [ Leak Controller For Ro Units W/1/4-In. Connections ]
. Here is a picture of the sensor they plan on having you mount in the cabinet below your r/o system.
Basically if the unit leaks it gets wet and connects the circuit telling the unit to shut off.... In this case if my water level in my tank/sump gets high enough to leak on the ground Im in deep doodoo.... SO I bought a float sensor online and wired it in.
Liquid Level Sensors from Chicago Sensor, Inc.
Now I will mount the float sensor an inch or so above the desired water level. If something happens the sensor will trigger the leak detector to shut off the r/o to the tank...
Next I have to mount the system in my sump...
jusbechillin
Member
I figure I spent under $100 for the whole thing. I also avoind the need for a tank to store fresh water, a lifter pump to bring water in, etc... AND It is pretty fail safe. The leak detector even runs on batteries so if for some reason power happens to be out it still does its job...I think I will be VERY pleased with the results!
alphasierra
Member
What are the actual dimensions of the tank? I could only find the dimensions for the sump. Can you also provide a picture of inside the cabinet. Cheers