Wow, that's a big crash. Something must be way out of whack.
If everything is dead, yup, it's time to start over.
Your goal appears to be to keep an anenome with ocellaris.
I have been keeping anenomes and ocellaris pairs for more than 25 years so can I share what works for me.
1. If everything is dead let's start with fresh saltwater 100%. Put the live rock back in, lighting at this point is not required.
2. Let's clean the filter and run charcoal to absorb any toxins which remain.
3. Let get the power head and pumps running again.
4. Then do a weekly change of water until all water parameters are set and zero on the ammonia and nitrate. At this point we are cycled, maybe 4-8 weeks.
5. At this point look for stability in temp, SG, and zero ammonia and nitrates.
6. Be careful on SG. Most people use one of those plastic SG Meters which is OK but they are only good for 6 months.
At this point, if your test show absolute stability, then OK to proceed with inhabitants. But go slow. An anenome and ocellaris would be a great start cause that seems to be your intention.
Now let's talk equipment:
1. The best way to keep a clean tank is 20% water change weekly. I keep 2 50 gallon garbage pails of water, 1 fresh, 1 salt kept at 1.024 or 1.025 and that water should be reverse osmosis.
3. I have no skimmer, and have a hang on back of tank filter with a sponge, a bag of charcoal, and a bag of phosphate remover change every 2 months. Skimming is a plus, but with weekly changes of water, I have never needed. In addition, I employ what is called a deep sand substrate. I use half inch plastic pipe on the bottom glass and that white plastic 1/2 inch stuff they use to defuse florescant light on top, then a layer of plastic window screen, then 2 inches of live coral sand, another screen, another 2 inches of coral sand. This creates an open space on the bottom of the tank. Then I use the power head to drag the water up from the bottom. This means the water is pulled constantly through the substrate. The best filter I have ever had. Allows for maximum surface area contact.
4. Lighting, like water is really important. I got rid of my florescant lights years ago, just too expensive. Best lighting is now LED. I use a VISPARSPECTRA 165 watt LED, which is absolutely great because once purchased good for 10 years. I run it at only 40% white, and 70% blue. You will find this on the Internet for in US dollars about 125 bucks. At 55 gallons one will work unless to are going to add corals, then 2. These hang about 12 inches above the tank, no cover, so your PH does rise.
Odds and ends:
1. Never once did any of my pairs of ocellaris refuse an anenome. Now, in 1 case it took 6 months for the pair to use, but all finally made it home. 1 pair even accepted a pink tip. I have now done this 12 times.
2. I never use hermit crabs as clean up. They will eat anything they can catch. Early one morning years ago I watched a hermit walk around my tank with "nemo" in his claws. Last time ever used.
3. Right now my "nemo" fish eat but they feed their anenome as well, Occasionally I target feed with a turkey baster.
4. When putting in new inhabitants, temperature changes from bag to tank are dangerous. I have been more successful in floating the bag in my tank for 1 hour, every 15 minutes I add some tank water. I also measure the SG in the bag to see how much different it is.
5. Never add something you can't test for!
Summary:
Correct water, adjustable lighting, regular water changes and stability are keys to success. Additives, expensive equipment, dosing are for people who do not want to do the water changes. Any saltwater mix like seachem, instant ocean, Red Sea, and the like along with Reverse Osomosis water will keep the correct levels of the multitude of those things that make up sea water which are listed on the bag.
We are sorry to hear of your crash. Something big time seems to be wrong to have wiped out everything. I am not familiar with the poisoning thinking of the anenome, so I will go with the others on this. It's impossible for me to pinpoint the root cause.
You seem to have a good working knowledge of saltwater and if your tank was running for 3 months before, it is odd that everything died so suddenly. Like I said, something killed everything so go slow on your rebuild.
Keep us posted please on your rebuild. My way is not the only way and some may disagree, that OK. Good luck.
This is a pic of one of 3 current softy tanks full of corals, running more than 3 years.View attachment 47577
Wow, that's a big crash. Something must be way out of whack.
If everything is dead, yup, it's time to start over.
Your goal appears to be to keep an anenome with ocellaris.
I have been keeping anenomes and ocellaris pairs for more than 25 years so can I share what works for me.
1. If everything is dead let's start with fresh saltwater 100%. Put the live rock back in, lighting at this point is not required.
2. Let's clean the filter and run charcoal to absorb any toxins which remain.
3. Let get the power head and pumps running again.
4. Then do a weekly change of water until all water parameters are set and zero on the ammonia and nitrate. At this point we are cycled, maybe 4-8 weeks.
5. At this point look for stability in temp, SG, and zero ammonia and nitrates.
6. Be careful on SG. Most people use one of those plastic SG Meters which is OK but they are only good for 6 months.
At this point, if your test show absolute stability, then OK to proceed with inhabitants. But go slow. An anenome and ocellaris would be a great start cause that seems to be your intention.
Now let's talk equipment:
1. The best way to keep a clean tank is 20% water change weekly. I keep 2 50 gallon garbage pails of water, 1 fresh, 1 salt kept at 1.024 or 1.025 and that water should be reverse osmosis.
3. I have no skimmer, and have a hang on back of tank filter with a sponge, a bag of charcoal, and a bag of phosphate remover change every 2 months. Skimming is a plus, but with weekly changes of water, I have never needed. In addition, I employ what is called a deep sand substrate. I use half inch plastic pipe on the bottom glass and that white plastic 1/2 inch stuff they use to defuse florescant light on top, then a layer of plastic window screen, then 2 inches of live coral sand, another screen, another 2 inches of coral sand. This creates an open space on the bottom of the tank. Then I use the power head to drag the water up from the bottom. This means the water is pulled constantly through the substrate. The best filter I have ever had. Allows for maximum surface area contact.
4. Lighting, like water is really important. I got rid of my florescant lights years ago, just too expensive. Best lighting is now LED. I use a VISPARSPECTRA 165 watt LED, which is absolutely great because once purchased good for 10 years. I run it at only 40% white, and 70% blue. You will find this on the Internet for in US dollars about 125 bucks. At 55 gallons one will work unless to are going to add corals, then 2. These hang about 12 inches above the tank, no cover, so your PH does rise.
Odds and ends:
1. Never once did any of my pairs of ocellaris refuse an anenome. Now, in 1 case it took 6 months for the pair to use, but all finally made it home. 1 pair even accepted a pink tip. I have now done this 12 times.
2. I never use hermit crabs as clean up. They will eat anything they can catch. Early one morning years ago I watched a hermit walk around my tank with "nemo" in his claws. Last time ever used.
3. Right now my "nemo" fish eat but they feed their anenome as well, Occasionally I target feed with a turkey baster.
4. When putting in new inhabitants, temperature changes from bag to tank are dangerous. I have been more successful in floating the bag in my tank for 1 hour, every 15 minutes I add some tank water. I also measure the SG in the bag to see how much different it is.
5. Never add something you can't test for!
Summary:
Correct water, adjustable lighting, regular water changes and stability are keys to success. Additives, expensive equipment, dosing are for people who do not want to do the water changes. Any saltwater mix like seachem, instant ocean, Red Sea, and the like along with Reverse Osomosis water will keep the correct levels of the multitude of those things that make up sea water which are listed on the bag.
We are sorry to hear of your crash. Something big time seems to be wrong to have wiped out everything. I am not familiar with the poisoning thinking of the anenome, so I will go with the others on this. It's impossible for me to pinpoint the root cause.
You seem to have a good working knowledge of saltwater and if your tank was running for 3 months before, it is odd that everything died so suddenly. Like I said, something killed everything so go slow on your rebuild.
Keep us posted please on your rebuild. My way is not the only way and some may disagree, that OK. Good luck.
This is a pic of one of 3 current softy tanks full of corals, running more than 3 years.View attachment 47577
... i decided not to get another anemone for awhile, as i want to wait another couple months until i'm more experienced. ...
he did get some new lightsi got new LED lighting
Not a couple of months, or you'll be repeating your original mistake.
Wait for a year before you attempt another anemone. I know this seems forever, but it's what you want to do so you'll have success with it.
Meanwhile consider if you need any lighting or filtration upgrades is your getting an anemone.