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[BigAl07]

I don't know that one but if it keeps the water moving it should work.. you don't want too much flow (don't want the fish to struggle to stay in one spot).

That will work unless it's TINY..

Allen

 

[BEELZEBOB]

indeed

and the lighing isn't exactally necessary because there will be no corals that demand it.


spot on blue-eyes. somtimes i need help.

 

[ScubaDrew]

Hey There!

An Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure: A Quarantine Tank for Everything by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com

everything you wanted to know about QT is on that link. An important item is that the sponge, or filter that you use in QT does need to cycle. I guess a solution to this is to leave a sponge or filter media in your sump (if you have one) on your main tank. This way the sponge/filter is cycled and ready to use.

Hope this helps, keep me posted on your progress.

Drew

here is the quote:

Most individuals that have quarantine tank problems are either unprepared or uneducated in what a proper quarantine tank's filtration must do. There must be some sort of fully functioning, cycled biological filter. Many times I have read of hobbyists who merely remove water from their main display, add a brand new or sterile filter, and think they are ready to go. They are often surprised by their subsequent ammonia trouble and its impact on their new acquisitions. There is nothing magical about aged water. Some small quantity of beneficial bacteria may be free-floating in the main aquarium's water, but it is not enough to sustain an ammonia-free environment in a newly established quarantine tank. Ammonia and/or nitrite poisoning is a real risk in quarantine tanks (really for any tank, for that matter, that does not have an adequate biological filter) if the aquarist is unprepared. I am of the opinion that most people who fail with a quarantine tank, fail because they overlook or misunderstand this key aspect.

 

[BigAl07]

Not a bad idea Drew to keep one on hand.... but I also know of others who don't have that in there QT tanks and have operated this way for years. Maybe they are just lucky....? ? ?

Allen

 

[BEELZEBOB]

ive not been able to justify a quarrentine for my system because it was never origionaly intended to have fish...

but im starting to get into a full blown 35gallon reef with fish that will cost more than 10 bucks, so i qt is manditory.

its just a way to elliminate another risk involved with the hobby.

 

[ScubaDrew]

"Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo

First line of the article... I think it comes down to how big of a pain would it be IF your tank did get infected with something. On a small tank, might not be as big a deal. On a huge setup, I'd think QT would be a much better idea as the trouble of QT is small compared to treating all the fish...

 

[75reef]

I don't know if anybody answered you yet, but the inverts will be fine in your main tank. The Ich does not effect them. Also it is best to let your main tank go fallow. Which means to let the Ich parasite complete its life cycle which to be 100% safe is 4 - 5 weeks.
I saw you wrote before about you have been treating the ich for 3 days. Sometimes it can take longer. I had a tang that the ich was still visible for about a little over a week. I thought too the treatment was not working but it eventually did. Believe me, I have personally gone through tank crash from going too fast and I am only going about 1/4 as fast as you are and have a much bigger tank.
The thing I have learned about marine aquariums that are a must is: Always quarantine everything before putting into the main display, GO SSLLLOOWW, and don't skimp on anything - going with less adequate filtration, lighting, etc just because it is cheaper.
Sooner or later anyone who doesn't follow that stuff is going to feel very negative effects from it.

 

[addicted]

My 10 gallon nano I had cost me about $25 at walmart. I got the tank, filter, hood and the light. I already had a heater for it. I just bought a better filter and a power head after I turned it into salt but the filter that came with it would have worked for a qt tank. I think they have 10 gallon set ups with heaters for like $10 more or something but I already had the heater so just got the one without the heater in it. You'll just need to add the sand and rock. I see them everywhere for like $10 for just the tank and nothing with it, just keep looking at wal-mart and different pet stores.

 

[Melanie]

My 10 gallon nano I had cost me about $25 at walmart. I got the tank, filter, hood and the light. I already had a heater for it. I just bought a better filter and a power head after I turned it into salt but the filter that came with it would have worked for a qt tank. I think they have 10 gallon set ups with heaters for like $10 more or something but I already had the heater so just got the one without the heater in it. You'll just need to add the sand and rock. I see them everywhere for like $10 for just the tank and nothing with it, just keep looking at wal-mart and different pet stores.

I use a QT and strongly suggest not adding sand or any substrate. You will need to be able to clean the bottom regularly (with a turkey baster) to keep your ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites from jumping.

I had an old 10 gal. I bought for $14 many years ago. Somewhere along the line, I bought a hang-on-back filter. I set this one up and it has been a life saver. I have since added a few things to it because they were either given to me free, I found them around the house, or bought them. A rotating powerhead set to low, a heater, a thermometer, a hydrometer that sticks to the glass (waste of money), prizm skimmer, and plastic egg crate over the top.

Your QT does not need much. I actually always use it now to hold new fish (one at a time) for a period of no less than 2 weeks. Longer if they show any signs of sickness or are not eating well.

I have LR in it to help with the biological filtration but if I were treating with meds I would not be using that. I did have a light but found that I had enough light in the room for my fish's needs and the light just raised the temp too high. The egg crate keeps any jumpers in and yet allows the water to remain cool.

I test my water in the 10 gal a MIN of once a week and usually more for these three things: ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I also keep pre-mixed saltwater ready for changes because smaller tanks' conditions can change rapidly. Because I test so much, I just purchased the test strips for use only on the QT. I haven't used them yet so I can't say whether they are good or not.

This may be more information than you wanted but perhaps some of it will be helpful. :away:

 

[hma]

I agree to Melanie, do it almost just like they, I wear only light 12 hours. Only one small 25 watts of energy savings lamp, this is completely sufficient. Also I have no sand, but LR in the QT.

 

[ASH]

OK thanks everyone