Gha
- Thread starter Goober35
- Start date
you'll want to address it Long-term on all levels you mentioned! It takes a while but i can be defeated!! Don't give up and you may want to increase water changes. Also do a water change right after you try manual removal etc to export as much as you can.
Good luck and Happy Reefing
Good luck and Happy Reefing
Unwanted algae is a common topic, so again, but popular demand, I present my thoughts on algae control...
DaveK's Standard Lecture #2 - Algae Control
Algae control comes down to controlling nitrates and phosphates. If you have a problem with algae it is because these two nutrients are out of control. Do not think that just because your test kits read zero or low values that you do not have a problem. In many cases the algae is removing the nutrients and growing. This is why there is a problem.
Here are possible sources of nitrates and phosphates -
Feeding, especially flake food and not rinsing frozen foods before feeding.
Using tap water to mix salt. Always use RO/DI water for this.
"Dirt traps" and "nitrate factories" in the system.
Low quality carbon can leach nutrients.
Low quality salt can sometimes add nutrients. This is unusual today.
Here are possible ways to remove nitrates and phosphates -
Water changes. Change 1/2 the water and you reduce the nutrients by 1/2.
Skimming. Remove the waste products before the biological filtration need to break then down.
Nitrate and phosphate removal products.
Deep sand beds.
Refugiums.
Algae Scrubbers.
Each of these has advantages and disadvantages. Most people that control algae well use many of the above methods.
There are also other items that can effect algae growth rates.
Good clean up crew.
Other livestock that eats algae.
Low general water quality, especially when the readings are off.
Lighting, sometimes you can reduce it, especially in FO or FOWLR systems.
Old light bulbs. Colors change as they age and this can be a factor.
Water flow. More flow will often help keep algae down.
Manual removal. Very important, especially when there is a big problem.
As for your system specifically, I see you have a canister filter on it. How often do you clean it? What media do you run in it?
The other key factor, what livestock do you have in the tank?
DaveK's Standard Lecture #2 - Algae Control
Algae control comes down to controlling nitrates and phosphates. If you have a problem with algae it is because these two nutrients are out of control. Do not think that just because your test kits read zero or low values that you do not have a problem. In many cases the algae is removing the nutrients and growing. This is why there is a problem.
Here are possible sources of nitrates and phosphates -
Feeding, especially flake food and not rinsing frozen foods before feeding.
Using tap water to mix salt. Always use RO/DI water for this.
"Dirt traps" and "nitrate factories" in the system.
Low quality carbon can leach nutrients.
Low quality salt can sometimes add nutrients. This is unusual today.
Here are possible ways to remove nitrates and phosphates -
Water changes. Change 1/2 the water and you reduce the nutrients by 1/2.
Skimming. Remove the waste products before the biological filtration need to break then down.
Nitrate and phosphate removal products.
Deep sand beds.
Refugiums.
Algae Scrubbers.
Each of these has advantages and disadvantages. Most people that control algae well use many of the above methods.
There are also other items that can effect algae growth rates.
Good clean up crew.
Other livestock that eats algae.
Low general water quality, especially when the readings are off.
Lighting, sometimes you can reduce it, especially in FO or FOWLR systems.
Old light bulbs. Colors change as they age and this can be a factor.
Water flow. More flow will often help keep algae down.
Manual removal. Very important, especially when there is a big problem.
As for your system specifically, I see you have a canister filter on it. How often do you clean it? What media do you run in it?
The other key factor, what livestock do you have in the tank?
Where does it say i have a canister filter and who in gods name would use them on a long term SW tank.
Small yellow tang and a bicolor blenny are my algae eating fish. CUC 25-30 turbo snails, 20 blue leg.
Im hoping it is because i just used the end of my salt. I am switching to red sea coral life pro.
Small yellow tang and a bicolor blenny are my algae eating fish. CUC 25-30 turbo snails, 20 blue leg.
Im hoping it is because i just used the end of my salt. I am switching to red sea coral life pro.
ChrisOaty
Member
lawnmower blenies are hit or miss...many lfs have sea hares that you can purchase for cheap (10-20) bucks. Not the pretties looking things, but I've used them on two occasions. They will strip the GHA off the rocks and release the nutrients back into the water column, allowing you to rid nitrates more effectively through other means (skimming, ATS, water changes).
Sorry, my mistake, I saw Eheim in your signature, and though canister filter.
You'd be surprised how many people use canister filters on reef tanks. Granted it's not the ideal filter system, but it does offer advantages over the hang on tank filters currently on the market. Their big downside is that they are oxygen consumers, and need to be cleaned at least every week to prevent them from becoming nitrate factories.
