Computer Fan Cooling

[InLimbo87]

So I decided today to take on a project. The problem was that my tank was running about 77 degrees overnite and heated up to around 81 during the day (have a 70w HQI over my nanocube 12). Now, although 81 is not problematic, I am not a fan of the 4 degree temp swing. So, I decided to wire up one computer fan to run with the lighting.

All I did was wire up a 12v dc computer fan from radioshack (6.99) with a 12v ac adapter I had lying around (from an old internet router). I just stripped about 1/2 inch off the ends, twisted and electrical tied together, and used double sided tape to prop up the fan on the back of the tank.

So far so good! Set heater at about 77 and temp has stayed stable at about that (my thermometer sucks so its not very accurate).

Here's a pic

 

[Frankie]

Good work! I would consider making it more stable then relying on just tape though. It will peel away over time and would make a mess if it fell into the tank.

 

[InLimbo87]

This was like industrial strength double-sided tape. The package said on it something to the effect of "for permanent use, will cause damage when removed". LOL

But I am considering setting up a more permanent mounting system. Got any easy suggestions? I'm a diy newb....

 

[PEMfish]

Zap! Salt will do hel on the adhesive ( sticky glue on tape ). I did something like that on my FW planted. I took an ol computer fan, wired it to a power 12v power supply. The light is a stock AGA singel tube. I modified it, rewired the whole thing. Now shes got 40w high PAR output with a custom ballast on circuit 2. I rigged it on 2 circuits so if one goes down I'll still have light. Anyway, the fan. Its a sealed setup ( the fixture ), top, front, back, and sides of the fixture are one soiled piece, except the vents on the top. It fits snug on the hood, preventing any flow from the bottom. So I cut off the right side of the fixture and mounted the fan over the hole. It blows air in, across all the bulbs / ballasts and out the top vents. Works grate.

 

[InLimbo87]

So how should I mount this thing then? Would there be some sort of clamp I can get or something?

 

[PEMfish]

See the fore holes on the casing? on the corners of the fan. Take a 90degre corner brace and bend it in. So it looks like a piece of pie. Stick that in between the fan and the wall. Screw it to the wall and then mount the fan to it. The direction the fan blows is determined by how far you bend the brace.

 

[prow]

you know what. i used those kind of computer fan for awhile and i must say they are a PITA. these are cheap nice little fans. get these they are perfect for your set up and will not only add more air flow and less wires laying around but they look better. only $25 ea, get two sets. Fluorescent Terrarium Lighting and Cage Accessories: Azoo Cooling Fans at Drs. Foster and Smith

 

[InLimbo87]

The elbow idea seems cool. I'll have to go out to Home Depot sometime this week and check out what I can work out.

Prow, I was actually considering the azoo fan set, but I really don't need anything that powerful. Plus you can't beat $7 total!

 

[prow]

Prow, I was actually considering the azoo fan set, but I really don't need anything that powerful. Plus you can't beat $7 total!

total, hehe, your not done yet. they work, i used those fans for too long too

 

[InLimbo87]

I've actually decided to remove the fan completely. I was only experiencing about 4 degree swings, and my tank was doing fantastic. Nothing went worse, but the amount of evaporation was hard to deal with (even with my auto top off unit). And the temp would rise a considerable amount at night no matter what I tried.

I decided to go this route after reading the post on RC titled "Common misconceptions in the hobby" I believe it was one of there thread of the months in months past. A lot of good arguments, debates, and ideas were brought up in that thread including the importance (or lack there of) in ultimate temperature stability. I'll have to find the link...

 

[tbittner]

Can you install it in your light fixture? My outer orbit had one on one end blowing air into the unit so I installed another one sucking air out on the other end. That helped BIG time. I wired the new fan in line with the other one so both come on at the same time.

 

[BigAl07]

prow sweet link. I may have to bookmark it just in case.

 

[prow]

Dr. Foster and Smith have a great dry good site. i really like the deal they give on reef crystals, its $32 for a 160gal bucket and the shipping is $9 on it. their live site is just as good. both are in my favs

 

[Frankie]

Saltwater will deteriorate pretty much anything over time. Those L brackets are ok to use but will rust over time and pollute the tank. If you want to use brackets make sure there stainless steel.
I like the ones prow showed you.

 

[BigAl07]

Dr. Foster and Smith have a great dry good site. i really like the deal they give on reef crystals, its $32 for a 160gal bucket and the shipping is $9 on it. their live site is just as good. both are in my favs

It's funny you say that. I just got my bucket from them in this week. I had a $10 off coupon so basically shipping was FREE!!

 

[cracker]

I've actually decided to remove the fan completely. I was only experiencing about 4 degree swings, and my tank was doing fantastic. Nothing went worse, but the amount of evaporation was hard to deal with (even with my auto top off unit). And the temp would rise a considerable amount at night no matter what I tried.

I decided to go this route after reading the post on RC titled "Common misconceptions in the hobby" I believe it was one of there thread of the months in months past. A lot of good arguments, debates, and ideas were brought up in that thread including the importance (or lack there of) in ultimate temperature stability. I'll have to find the link...

I have been wading thru that thread as well, A LOT of differing views! LOL

 

[prow]

here is that link Reef Central Online Community - Common Misconceptions In the Hobby seems to me most have tunnel vision over there.

InLimbo87, does your lighting have good fans on them. the cooler you keep your light bulbs the better the light spectrum will be and the life of the bulb will be extended aswell, not to mention increasing gas exchange for your tank. i run my fans while my lights are on regardless of my tanks temp. food for thought.

It's funny you say that. I just got my bucket from them in this week. I had a $10 off coupon so basically shipping was FREE!!

its the price around on a good salt. it cheaper then my LFS buys it for. did you get reefcrystals or IO? a tip on my results with RC; if you mix a 20gal batch to a salinity of 35ppt and add 1.5tsp of seachems adv. Ca+ to it, you should get results like these almost everytime:
Mg:1300ish
Ca: 450ish
alk: 4.2ish
(my tank runs Mg1350 Ca430 Alk3.5)

 

[InLimbo87]

The Sunpod lighting fixture does have a fan (or maybe two) inside of it. So far, everything seems good with the swings. I've always found the "hands off approach" has worked best. Seems the more I tinker for the "perfect environment", the more stressed everything does.

I've seen more growth with this tank than I ever have

 

[cracker]

Prow, I'm surprised I don't see more reflective lighting hoods enclosed with glass with inline fans. Do You think the glass cuts the light intensity so much that it outweighs the advantages of enclosed air cooled hoods? Thanks,

 

[prow]

Prow, I'm surprised I don't see more reflective lighting hoods enclosed with glass with inline fans. Do You think the glass cuts the light intensity so much that it outweighs the advantages of enclosed air cooled hoods? Thanks,

kinda sorta but not really the shield, glass or acrylic, acts as a splash gaurd. there is some light intensity loss, more with glass, but no all that much as long as you keep them clean. heat wise if the fixture has good venting, especially on the top its fine. still though a open bulb and reflector will stay much cooler and the bulb will hold its spectrum longer-both in the life of the bulb and through out the day. most fixtures i have seen have inadequate cooling fans and inadequate venting. i dont like most fixtures for those reasons plus i dont like the ballast so close to bulbs either. i mount my ballast on the wall behind the tank(out of sight) heat wise and for the bulbs life its better to have no shield, however the reflector can become oxidized and not reflect so good. also you need to keep the bulb and end caps clean. its a trade off. IMO DIY lighting in a canopy with good venting and cooling with no shield is best. but a fixture with good cooling fans top venting(usually a little mod for this) would be just as good. the type lighing also has to be considered, MH you dont want anything splashing on the bulb.