Certified Master Electrician here to help!

Newjack

Member
out of all my readings and such, heater and lights took the most power with pump being the least. Like DaveK says, Theres not a lot you can do with that. If money is an issue... as much as it sucks you can always downgrade. Just w/e you change do it slowly so theres no acclimation problems.
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
also have a clamp meter , though I not proficient with it, but the very basics - it will tell me if I really turn off the wiring I am working on ;)

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but anyone can use a kill-a-watt supper simple to use
 

Newjack

Member
ahh good post ^ However if your looking for something not as expensive and just to tell you if the wire is live or not.. Get a hot stick. All it is a pen shaped device that beeps or flashes when it comes close or in contact with electricity. You don't have to directly touch it but just close.
 

Newjack

Member
also please note the amp clamp on a multimeter does not tell you if the line is hot or not. It can and will read all 0s when its not being used but still energized. The amp clamp only detects current witch is the flow of power. There for if nothing is using power from the wire but its still on it will read 0
 

Choff

Well-Known Member
Thoughts on grounding probes? I've read they are a nono if you are using GFIC. Thanks:

...stupid auto correct
 

Mrsalt

Active Member
PREMIUM
I think its a tricky one to be honest, as on one hand they potentially have the ability to save your bacon should the tank become live. But on the other they create a continuous path for low induced voltage from motor blocks and submerged cables to complete a circuit to ground which will / must do something to stress fish as they sense electrical currents.

Recently I cocked up and drained the sump for a clean and forgot the heater was plugged in. Result was heater cracked and caused a instant fault to earth. However I did not have a ground probe and it still tripped the house out. So in effect if the fault in the electrical component occurs the rcd trips, and I am safe. So do I personally need one ? I guess not.
 

Mr.Reeefer

Member
Hi RS electricians, I would like to say, thank you for offering your services to us here, we could all ask an electrician where we are from, but what makes you guys special is, you are reefers!!

I have read what you posted regarding big al, but I understood none of it, no fault of your own, just me being stupid with electricity, that's probably why I got the shock of my life a couple of months ago.

I too am in the process of building a home, and will be going a large in wall tank, with other tanks also. So there will be lots of pumps, heaters etc etc. After my last scary electric shocks, I want to make it safe plus efficient.

I was wondering when you have time or if you could be bothered, could a diagram be drawn of how it should be run, from electricity source to tank, so that way I can pass it onto my electrician and say "here do this".
I live in australia, we run 240V, I don't know if that makes a difference or not, just thought I'd tell you....lol

Thanks in advance
 

Mrsalt

Active Member
PREMIUM
Ill try mate as we are 230 240v here as well. Just would need a list of intended item and we can work how much load etc is involved. As for specific in house wiring I'm not familiar with ozzy's regulations but I'm sure we could explain anything your sparky says and your confused with. HTH
 
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