A Reef in the Sky (Red Sea Max Edition)

alphasierra

Member
Hello RSM owners and enthusiasts... Since this is the forum where my passion for this hobby really 'took off' (no pun intended) and many of you here often PM me asking how the new tank is going... I will share the tank and process I went through with you. Many of the posts will be in past tense since a lot has already happened.
Here is the link to my old RSM130 The RSM Adventure

Let the show begin....














"Moderators, members and guests...
Welcome aboard. Please Fasten your seat-belt and make sure your seat is in the upright position and tray table stowed. The flight ahead should be smooth and I look forward to making your reading enjoyable"



Is it possible to create a beautiful reef in the sky similar to this beautiful sunrise??
sunRiseOverIndia2copy.jpg


Not sure... but I will try. :dance:



My Experience


Hello all!
Just a quick intro for those who don't know me. My name is Andrew and I have been fascinated by aquatic life for many years but have never had the chance to own a reef tank up until 2 years ago. I have only been in the hobby just over 2 years so there is still a lot to learn but I am looking forward to the challenge(s). My first tank was the Red Sea Max (RSM) 34 Gallon. It was a great tank for a beginner but as predicted... I caught the bug and decided to upgrade. :thumbup:



My Goals


I came across Zeovit and the concept around 20 months ago and would like to try it. My goals are to mainly have a dominated SPS reef with some marine fish. Besides the contents inside the aquarium I am trying to design a stylish & modern setup which compliments my apartment. Can all this be done in up in the sky? Stay on board and time will tell :)


Current Tank

This was my old tank and the space that I had to work with
FutureTankPlacement-1.jpg


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Display Tank

Rimless Design
3/4" Low-Iron Glass (sides and front)
66"L x 26"W x 22"H
Clear Silicon

Since I'm limited for space and the tank can not be wider than 26" I've elected for an internal overflow and not an external overflow. I would like the tank to be viewable when I walk through the front door so having an overflow at one end isn't really an option.

A sample of the 3/4" low-iron glass. This tank will be heavy :hmm2:
SampleGlass1.jpg


What it should look like
HyperShot266.jpg


HyperShot267.jpg




Sump

Located under the display tank inside the cabinet.

3/8" Normal Glass
42"L x 20.5"W x 16"H
Clear Silicon

Sump2-2.jpg


SumpTopView2.jpg




Stand

I wanted to create a stand that was unique, user friendly and allowed me to fit everything I needed inside so I decided to design one which would allow this. I also wanted the ability to roll the sump in and out when required for cleaning and to incorporate a sliding table to ease maintenance chores.

Stand will be made of 1.5"x1.5" Steel painted white.
66"L x 26"W x 32.5"H
Stand1.jpg


An end view showing where the sump tray will slide in and out.
Stand3.jpg


Sump Tray, Sliding Table... etc
SumpTray1.jpg


Underneath the sliding tray table will be the electrical area and ATO container. This section will be separated from the sump by a piece of acrylic to minimize salt creep/rust.
SumpTray2.jpg




Cabinet & Features


After much thinking I have decided to go with a light blue colour similar to the picture.
TankDoorsClosed1.jpg



I needed to design the cabinet doors to allow the sump tray and sliding table to be utilized. To achieve this the end doors needed to be removable. Decided to use a 'French Cleat'
FrenchCleat-lt-demo1LG.jpg



How it will look
TankDoorsOpen1.jpg



The front cabinet doors will be rather large and heavy so I needed find good quality stainless steel sliders that can carry the weight of each door. Also needed some that would extend 100% to allow me to access the front adequately. After a search I decided to go with this Japanese brand. Same brand but smaller size will be used on the sliding table.
ESR-4513.png



They will be attached to wood which will be attached to the steel frame.
TankDoorsOpen2.jpg



Finally, the sump will roll out on caster wheels which are rated at 50kg Static and 25kg Dynamic each.
OverViewofCasters.jpg




Room Layout & Background


Checking the tank measurements will fit the room
RoomView5.jpg


The next challenge was to decide what background colour to have?

Black, Blue or nothing? Much thought went into this as the tank will only be 26" deep and I wanted to achieve a perception of "depth" and it must not clash with the cabinet colour. I therefore elected to go with blue, but with a 'twist'.

This is what I came up with.
BackgroundBlue5.jpg


Next was to see how it looked on the tank whether it would look acceptable with the blue cabinet.
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The end result.
TankViewBackground.jpg


The background will be custom built but I have recently been having some trouble finding someone who can make it. It will be a lot harder than I thought.



Electric Light Lifter

To make maintenance easier I have designed an electric light lifter. This will be the first item installed before the tank and stand arrive.
LightLifter3.jpg


An older drawing showing how it will hopefully look above the tank
LivingRoomLights6copy.jpg


Top view
TopView1.jpg


A video I took showing the lifter unit in operation. I was amazed how smoothly and quiet it operates. You can program the heights/distances you want it to stop as to avoid accidentally pulling the plugs out, etc...


Completed.
LightBox-1.jpg
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
+1 ^ - Thanks Andrew for sharing the updates with your sw roots here in the RSM Club ! Now my updates are in the nicest reefing forum on the net !
 

alphasierra

Member
Thanks everyone for the kind words... let the updates continue....



Water Circulation

Trying to come up with a plan/layout to create good flow for the corals, fish and to carry away waste has been a lot harder than I thought. Plus, I'm trying not to have pumps and cords going everywhere. Anyhow, below is what will be used for water movement.

x2 Tunze 6105
Tunze6105.jpg


After much consideration I decided on using one return pump instead of two. The main reasons are less noise, wattage and therefore less heat being produced. However to ensure this is the case I have gone with a RD 6.5m3.
RD652.jpg


Specs
RD655.jpg


The final part of the water movement involves having a mini closed loop system within the tank itself. I want to minimize potential dead spots and this concept should help. I will use a Eheim 1001 pump rated at 600l/h.
***Remember the internal overflow has been moved inwards and is no longer at the edge. These are old pics but you should get the idea.
HyperShot94.jpg


An idea of where the piping will go. I'm tempted the even drill some holes in the pipe at certain places to create more/random water movement. (IE: bounce off rock work and the outside of the overflow)
HyperShot95.jpg


HyperShot96.jpg



Rockscape

The hardest part of this whole tank designing/building process so far has to be this. After many hours of looking at others rock-scapes here is a layout that I've come up with so far.

Plenty of room around the edges for cleaning the glass, coral to grow and fish to swim.
Rockscape261.jpg


Between the island on the left and the main rock structure on the right I'm hoping to create a sense of depth.
Rockscape271.jpg


This is the view that will be seen from the lounge area
Rockscape272.jpg



Lighting

I plan on using this ATI Powermodule Dimmbar 8x80W for the tank.

General comparison to my current tank
ATIRSMcomparison-1.jpg


I made a tank layout to help with my planning. You can see the difference in floor area.
ActualSizes.jpg


SignageonPM.jpg


BulbOverview.jpg


BulbsonKZinstalled.jpg


These cooling fans look so awesome and are very quiet too!!. I had read that sometimes they don't work and this was the case with me. The problem is that the ATI logo is pushed against the black middle section of the fan (maybe from transport/packaging) therefore preventing them from spinning easily. I just simply raised them up a little with my finger and they worked like a treat.
CoolingFans2.jpg


Picked up some great Blue LED lighting which will be used on the setup.
Lights3.jpg


Lights1.jpg



Automation & Electrics

Besides the electric light lifter, I plan on having a few other things automated in and around the aquarium. In order to achieve this I needed a controller of some sort so I chose the GHL Profilux.

Basically, the GHL Profilux Plus II controller will be the heart of the system and everything else will run off it. The x6 Way Digital Powerbar is connected to the Profilux Plus II and this will operate the Dosing Units and various other electrical components.

I created this basic schematic to make it easier to understand what the system will comprise of (so I knew what to order) and to visually see where everything plugs in as I can be a little complicated.
GHLSetupLinesDrawnInHIC.jpg


Profilux II Plus.... Whats inside the box
Controller.jpg


Dosing Unit 4.... Whats inside the box
DosingPumpUnit.jpg


How they will look together. Fortunately the sketches and calculations I did were the same measurements.
BothUnits.jpg


Powerbar x6
Contents2.jpg


The remaining accessories
ProfiluxAccessories.jpg



I've also created a mock up of the power board which will be inside the cabinet. It's sole purpose it to hold the power bars (x3 in total) and associated electrical equipment. As I'm limited for space I've had to give it some thought so it is easy to maintain and access.

It's an odd shape to allow plugs to fit through easily, etc...
PowerBoardLayout.jpg


How it should look, but with the cords much neater. One of the ATI plugs will not be required now so it gives me a little more space. Also the profilux x6 power bar was a little larger than I anticipated.
PowerBoard3.jpg



Skimmer

Alpha 200 (220V)
Skimmer3.jpg


Skimmer6.jpg


Glad to see the skimmer fits in my 'mock up plan' of the sump and cabinet area
Skimmer5.jpg



I ~ Zeo Reactor

Custom I~Zeo reactor. I asked for white acylic so it would match the skimmer and other items in the sump area.
I-Zeo2.jpg


The optional extra John Guest fitting allows direct feeding of some Zeovit products and the food will enter directly into the chamber from the bottom
I-Zeo5.jpg


A close look at the wave~paddle rock spinner
I-Zeo6.jpg


The matching couple
SkimmerZeoReactor.jpg



Additional Test Kits

Picked up these goodies the other day to help monitor the water parameters of the new tank.
HannaKits.jpg


Phosphate Test Kit : Low Range
PO4TestKit.jpg


Electronic Refractometer: measures Specific Gravity, Temp, Salinity
SaltwaterTestKit.jpg



Zeovit Products

Zeostart2 (250ml) *not pictured
Zeobak (50ml)
SpongePower (50ml)
Carbon 1L (only require 0.5L)
Zeolites 2L (only require 1.5L)
Aragonite Sand
Potassium Test Kit

DSCN3767.jpg


DSCN3770.jpg
 

alphasierra

Member
Thanks guys, much more to come... lets continue now.

Background sample. This is printed at medium quality since high quality is very expensive. Good enough I think
BackgroundSample.jpg


BackgroundSample2.jpg


Light Box pics... Definitely worth the wait.
LB1.jpg


LB2.jpg


LB3.jpg


LB4.jpg


LB5.jpg




Plumbing

Well this was certainly the hardest part of the planning stage. Reading, reading and more reading. With no previous experience it took a number of months to understand the terminology and components required to plumb a marine aquarium... let alone deciding which overflow system to go with.

Since, the tank will be located in the family area and close to bed rooms, I wanted to have it as quiet as possible. IE: Minimize water noise and pump noise. The layout also needed to allow easy dis-connection of the plumbing parts to utilize the roll-out sump idea.

Here is what I decided on with the help of Chris from nautilusreef :thumbsup:

Components:
x2 1.5" CJ Standpipes
x2 1.5 BH's
x2 reducers (1.5" - 1")
x2 TUBV's

x1 3/4" TUCV
x2 3/4" TUBV's
Piping2.jpg


Grey Flex tubing will be used on the underside
PipingUnderneath.jpg


All put together, except for the return piping section which will be correctly measured and piping cut once fitted.
Plumbing.jpg


Plumbing2.jpg


Plumbing3.jpg


The tank builder has some of the plumbing parts to ensure all holes and dimensions are measured and drilled correctly. Having 1.5" BH's certainly pushed envelope for space and required a slight change in the stand dimensions so it could all fit.



More Electrics...

I decided to figure out how to connect the ATI PM to the profilux EVG circuit board as this will hopefully allow the dimming of lights to simulate sunset/sunrise etc. Since my 'hands on experience' with electrical circuitry is limited I thought it would be a big challenge however after some e-mails and questions I managed to work it out.

It hasn't been tested yet as the lights need to run for around 100hours before dimming should occur and this wont happen until I hang them. Anyhow, I thought I would give you guys a run down on how it is done since I couldn't find much info on the web about it.

The Dimbar box of the ATI. Note there are x2 power cords going into the box on the left-hand side and one going out the right side which leads to the PM.
Wiringcopy-1.jpg


The numbers down the left side correlate to the wires function
DimmbarInstructionscopy.jpg


The EVG-AP-2F-HIC (High Inrush Currents)
EVG-AP-2F-HIC.jpg


Showing where the wires connect
EVGFinalSetup.jpg


The end result
WiredPM.jpg


Initial confusion was caused because I thought both power plugs from the ATI had to be connected to the EVG card and there was only connectors for one plug. But in fact, only one plug was required. I wont secure the EVG card until it has been tested.



What Corals?

I asked you guys sometime last year what coral books you would recommend for identification and hunbandry. So I got these...

Aquarium Corals by Eric H. Borneman
Corals Of the World by Jen Veron

Some light reading
DSCN2633.jpg


DSCN2639.jpg


Predominately I want this to be an SPS tank but I plan on having some Acans and Scolys too plus a couple of LPS. These will come from my current tank plus I hope to acquire some more over time.

This will be an ongoing process... but below is what I have in mind at the moment. Always learning...

x3 Birds Nest Corals (x2 Seriatopora Hystrix & x1 Seriatopora Caliendrum)

x2 Club Finger Corals (Stylophora)

x20-30 Various Acropora (branching, bushy, cluster, bottlebrush, finger & tables)

x3-4 Monipora (Digitata, Tuberculosa)

x2 Porites

x2 Disk corals (Fungia)

The reefing community here in HKG is rather spoilt (IMO) from the vast selection of corals and fish available. Most are corals are small/medium collonies so I will have to be extra careful when introducing them. Out of interest, here are some pictures of some corals for sale from various shops here. [Pictures are courteous of shop owners prior to sale]

CoralsforSale2.jpg


CoralsforSale.jpg


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nEO_IMG_DSC_0101.jpg


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So I'm really excited once the tank is up and running to buy some corals...
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
Andrew lives in HKG - i.e. Hong Kong
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Andrew, you are a commercial pilot, right?

Keep updates coming !!! Loving it !!!
 

alphasierra

Member
Coral Dips


There wont be a quarantine tank set-up for the new corals so I will have to use the dip process before introduction and any on going treatment. It's actually daunting how many pests can affect SPS corals so I was thinking of going with the following as it seems to have good result amongst uses and can fight most of the bugs.

Coral RX Pro 1oz
coralrxpro4oz.gif


Taken from their website:
Coral Rx can be used in treating many types of live corals; soft, LPS and SPS. Coral Rx should be used in treating corals that have parasites or other bacterial infections. Additionally, it should be used as a prophylactic treatment before bringing live coral into your aquarium.

Coral Rx is effective in removing the following parasites:
- Acropora Eating Flatworms (AEFW)
- Montipora Eating Nudibranchs
- Bristleworms
- Zoanthid Eating Spiders
- Red Flatworms

Also aids in the treatment of:
- Filamentous Hair Algae
- Rapid Tissue Necrosis (RTN)
- Slow Tissue Necrosis (STN)
- Bacterial Infections & More



Also considering ReVive but not sure. Thinking of using this directly for the Scolys and Acans, plus any other Softies & LPS corals I may give into an buy.

ReVive 500ml
revive1.jpg




Electric Light Lifter... Installed!!!


Today it was installed. Finished at night.... so this is the only picture at the moment.

LightLifterBlue.jpg


More pictures and video when there is day light!

More pictures & a video

The light box is exactly how I wanted it to look. Very happy so far :D

During installation
InstallBoxandWinch.jpg


The wood section and how it is attached to the box.
WoodSection.jpg


Blue glow from the ATI
BlueGlow.jpg


All my calculations worked out... the wire fits through the holes
LightPosition.jpg


Side view of the light box and lights. The power cord (left side) for the lifter will be neatly installed later.
OverallView.jpg


Hope you like ;)


Anyone know how to embed Youtube videos? Can't seem to get it to work
 
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