What You Need to Know About Bluespots

[bluespotjawfish]

I'd love everyone to post information in this thread that has been the most helpful to you in deciding whether to get a Bluespot and how to care for your Bluespot. Post away...

 

[Dentoid]

I like to see this forum become a world wide phenomenon. A place where researcher, scientists, reef hobbyists, collectors and wholesalers go for information on the Blue Spot jawfish. I'd like to see it become an on-line research tool for students, and anyone wanting information on this fascinating species.

I'd like for it to become a sounding board for hobbyists to express their experiences, good and bad, with the BSJF, so that others can learn and minds can be opened up and stimulated to research this fish and its unique husbandry.

Most of all it should be fun and educational! Populate the world with Blue Spot jawfish and the earth will be a more beautiful place!

 

[Gina]

I will be watching this thread. It will assist me in deciding if I would like to have one or not after we set our reef back up. I have plenty of time since we have to finish our basement first.

 

[bluespotjawfish]

You will love them Gina! I'm going to start this off by copying a few of our posts from our original thread.

Scotty's Post #227 provides the following info:

Here are some bullet points about the Blue Spot Jawfish (aka, Blue Dot Jawfish, Blue Spotted Jawfish, Blue "Dot" Spot Jawfish, Blue Dotted Jawfish etc). These point were taken, in many cases quoted, directly from "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Bob Fenner. Anyone feel free to add to the list!

*They come from Mexico's Sea of Cortez.

*They grow to a length of 6 inches.

*They are mostly caught using "organic" methods. A poker is driven into
the sand next to their tunnel and leveraged at an angle to force the
occupant out, then the specimen is caught in a soft net.

*Rarely are chemical methods used, but when they are these lots tend to
die readily.

*They shouldn't be kept with: Groupers, Tilefish, large Wrasses, Jacks,
Snappers, Triggers or fast moving fishes (it scares them).

*They are carnivorous and will eat frozen foods. An occasional live morsel
is appreciated.

*They typically breed from Spring until Fall.

*Males become bright white in the front half of their bodies during
spawning.

*Females are quickly courted by males who sport blackish dots on their
heads during this time.

*Males orally incubate the eggs for about a week.

*The young are free swimming for about two weeks before they settle
down and dig their first little burrows

*In the aquarium they need a minimum of 3-4 inches of sand and small
pieces of rock rubble and shells to construct their burrow.

*The aquarium must be covered because they are jumpers!

*They will delight you with their dazzling display of color and amuse you
with their burrow building antics.

*They have a face that's adorable!

 

[bluespotjawfish]

More from Scotty (Post 357)...

Rubble is important to the BSJF as basic building blocks for the jawfish's burrow. They not only use them to fortify the opening, but as a liner of the burrow to keep the sand from caving into the burrow. I put a handful hear my Dotty and she used every piece. When I shine a flashlight into her burrow I can see them lining the walls. As for some of the previous posts, most if not all of it is anecdotal. I have been doing a review of the literature on the net and have found no research to indicate that this is a hard fish to keep if its basic needs are met. Here are some articles you may want to read that have some credibility:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...hcs3/index.php

Concerning jawfish disease.
Jawfishes
JawfishDisFAQs

The only one I found remotely mentioning BSJF disease.
Nano-Reef.com - Fish Information - Bluespot Jawfish

I also checked the Monterey Aquarium site and could find nothing, although I did find something elsewhere that said several years ago they were doing research on the BSJF. Then some Mexican researchers started doing research and got the Mexican government to ban their export so that they had exclusive rights to study them. To my knowledge the ban is no longer in effect, but I can not find any research.

As for water temperature, that's an interesting theory, but considering that other fish like the Long Nose Hawkfish and other common Hawkfish come from this same region, without water temperture issues, why would the BSJF? The Sea of Cortez (The Gulf of Califorinia) is the body of water flanked by the California Baja Penninsula to the west and the Mexican mainland to the east, which is where the BSJS is reported to originate. The water temperature in the Sea of Cortez ranges anywhere from 61 in the south where the Pacific meets the Gulf to 85 further north and towards the shoreline. Still looking for what, if any, effect water temperture has on this fishes metabolism.

One thing we know for sure is that they are jumpers. My "theory" is that their mysterious bruises, abrasions, and discolorations are from jumping and striking hard surfaces (ie, canopy tops, lights, egg crate etc). Another thing we know is that they are typically found residing on flat stretches of the ocean floor in large colonies and have a 360 degree view of their surroundings. They may feel uncomfortable in our tanks having a wall of rock blocking part of their view.

 

[bluespotjawfish]

I think this one was Dotty's post (#609):

I received Scott W. Michael's book, Basslets, Dottybacks & Hawkfishes-Plus Seven More Aquarium Fish Families With Expert Captive Care Advice For The Marine Aquarist.

The following is taken directly out of the book:

Quote:
Opistognathus rosenblatti
Common Name: Bluespotted Jawfish.
Maximum Length: 10cm (3.9in.).
Distribution: Gulf fo California.
Biology: Bluespotted Jawfish are typically encountered near offshore islands, usually near the base of cliffs and rocky outcroppings. They build their burrows in mixed shell fragments and pebbles, covering the entrance to their burrow at night and rebuilding the entrances in the morning. While adult individuals are usually found at depths of 18-24 m (59-79 ft.), juveniles are sometimes found as shallow as 4.6 m (15ft.). This species lives in colonies, with individuals spaced about 1 to 3 m (3.3-9.8 ft.) apart.
These colonies can number up to several hundred individuals...(mating behavior left out).
Captive Care: At one time, this jawfish was affordable and not uncommon. But a strong market for this species in Japan drove the price up, and very few individuals entered the North American market for a period of years. Recently, this species has again become more available to U.S. aquarists. This is a magnificent aquarium fish that never fails to provoke wonder. Its husbandry is similar to that of other small members of the family, except it tends to be more aggressive toward members of its own kind. Keep more than one individual only if you have a larger tank. It is also risky to keep it with other jawfish species, although it can be done in a spacious system. Like others in the family, it is a very effective jumper that seems able to find the smallest of holes in the aquarium top to leap through.
Aquarium Size: 20 gal. Temperature: 21-28C (70-82F)
Remarks: this jawfish is not easy to overlook, as it is the most spectacular member of the family. It is beigh to yellowish brown overall with blue spots on the head and the body. Juveniles are yellow with or without spots.

 

[bluespotjawfish]

Mermaid is also helping with our research (Post 1741). This post provides information about Bluespots and jawfish in general.

JAWFISH Reprinted from The Colorado Aquarist
By Kathleen Rader, Colorado Aquarium Society
Smilers, Monkeyfish, and Goggle-eyed Cods are all names which have been given to these compulsive burrowers. In scientific nomenclature, jawfish belong to the family Opistognathidae, which contains three genera: Opistognathus, Lonchopisthus, and Stalix. Only the first two are commonly kept in saltwater aquariums. These fish are closely related to pygmy basslets and fairy basslets.
Jawfish are found in tropical to temperate waters around the world. At least eleven species live in the western Atlantic; eight of these are known to reside along the east coast of the U.S. They also inhabit the Florida Keys area, the Caribbean, Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez), Pacific, the east coast of Bali in the Indonesian Ocean, and the Great Barrier Reef of Australia. Unlike pygmy basslets, jawfish prefer living in flat, sandy or coral rubbled areas associated with coral reefs.
Anatomy
The most noticeable thing about a jawfish is its large, forwardly placed eyes. The eyes are positioned at an angle on the head to allow the jawfish to properly orient its sight as it hovers vertically over its burrow. The pupil is egg-shaped. Jawfish eyesight is very good, and they have even been known to intently watch things going on outside of the aquarium.
Jawfish have huge heads and large jaws. The blenny-like mouth can open extremely wide. The color patterns inside the mouth often make the throat appear substantially larger than it actually is. In some species, extensions of the jawbone allow them to open their mouths so wide that they can engulf fishes that are larger around than the jawfish's own head when the jaw is in the normal position. The very large mouth has three basic functions: 1) to use as a threat when defending their burrow, 2) to assist in the excavating of the burrow, and 3) to hold eggs during incubation.
Most species are smaller than 6" (15 cm), with long dorsal and anal fins and small scales. Jawfish do not have an air bladder. They maintain a constant depth, hovering motionlessly over their burrows, by using a rippling motion of their dorsal and anal fins.
Behavior
Jawfish can be very timid, non-aggressive creatures that never venture far from home. Most of their time is spent either hovering 6 to 12" (15 to 30 cm) above their homes, trying to protect them from intruders and catching food, or working at burrow maintenance, a never-ending job. They usually back slowly into their burrows. When nervous, some jawfish bounce in and out of their holes like yo yos. When severely threatened, jawfish dive into their homes, head first.
These little fish will try to protect their homes against all intruders. In low level threat situations, jawfish position their faces toward the intruder and open their mouths wide, showing off their big, deep throats. Sometimes they will spit sand at the unwanted visitor. Some species will also make biting motions, flare their opercula and raise their dorsal spines. Sometimes two antagonists will dance around for some time, showing each other their widely opened mouths. On rare occasions members of the same species have been observed to engage in mouth fighting.
In nature, jawfish live in colonies of from fifty to several hundred extremely territorial individuals. In some, the spacing between burrows is approximately 3' (1 m). The desire for pebbles of specific sizes is a constant source of aggravation between neighbors. Jawfish spend their spare time trying to steal each other's stock piles of gravel which are kept by the entrances to their burrows.
Burrows
Blue-Spotted Jawfish sticking his head out of his burrow.
A layer of 5 to 8 inches (13 to 20 cm) of gravel should be provided for these little architect/engineer/construction workers. They also need to be provided with a wide array of sizes of pebbles, pea gravel, thumbnail-sized flat gravel and broken pieces of coral with which they can build their homes. They like to build next to large rocks as added protection against groupers and other large fish which try to dig them out. Their large muscular mouths are ideally suited for excavating their homes.
Burrow building often starts by the random excavation and abandonment of pits in the sand until the ideal location is found. A depression is then dug in the sand, often adjacent to a rock or large chunk of coral. The developing tunnel is lined with pebbles and coral fragments to keep it from collapsing. When complete, the entrance portion of the burrow will be only slightly larger than the diameter of the fish. A ring of sand is built up around the entrance as the burrow is excavated. Mounds of gravel, shell and coral fragments are kept by the entrance as a stockpile of needed material. At night, jawfish cover their holes using large flat rocks or pieces of shell. During the building of their homes, all other fish are chased from the area.
After the initial burrow is completed, further tunneling may follow with actual rooms being built that head off to the side from the main tunnel. All tunnels and rooms are carefully lined with tightly fitted gravel and pebbles to keep them from caving in. Some burrows may extend for as deep as 18" (46 cm). O. auriforns, the Yellowheaded Jawfish, builds an almost bottle-shaped burrow, making a big chamber that has a reduced neck at the entrance. Some species have been known to build homes with two or more entrances. Jawfish devote a large amount of time to maintaining their tunnels, removing debris from fall-ins, replacing the supporting pebbles where needed, bringing up sand that has settled to the bottom of the burrow, and so forth.
Burrow construction has been observed using the following technique. A large pit is first excavated, followed by the placing of carefully selected, flat and elongated stones fitted tightly together on the sides of the pit. The supporting stones are arranged into a horseshoe shape abutting a protective rock, or if no rock is present, a circular shape. The fish then swims to the outer side of the slope and spits sand over the edge, entirely covering the first row of carefully laid support stones. It then pushes a new circle of stones into the sand directly above the first row, resulting in a slight reduction in the diameter of the pit. This procedure is repeated until the burrow is complete. The bottom of the hole is not covered with stones.
Spawning
Most species of jawfish appear to be mouth brooders, with the male in charge of the eggs. Sexes are usually hard to distinguish. Some may be sexually identified by markings during spawning, but others can only be distinguished by behavior. In some species, a neutral burrow is built specifically for breeding, in others, the female is permitted to enter the male's home during the brief spawning procedure but is then chased away.
In most species, spawning appears to be initiated by the male hovering over his home or the neutral burrow. He may give a flash of a color change or perform a dance, opening his mouth, raising fins, etc. to announce to the female that he is ready to spawn. He then enters the hole tail first and is soon joined by a normal-colored female who enters the hole head first. Fertilization takes place in the burrow; immediately afterward the female is driven off.
The male is the sole caretaker of the eggs until they hatch. He broods them in his mouth, putting them down in the bottom of his burrow when he comes out to eat. Masses of eggs can be seen in the half-open mouths of brooding males, where they are moved about by the current of the water passing in and out of his mouth. The ball of eggs is periodically expelled from the mouth and immediately sucked back in. As they mature, the egg mass loses its cohesiveness and is only stuck back together by the sucking back into the mouth action.
Spawning of the Yellowheaded Jawfish (O. aurifrons) starts with the male approaching a female swimming in open water. He arches his body, raises his fins and opens his mouth. Thin black spots appear on the underside of his head. The female follows him back to his burrow or a neutral one. These fish normally spawn at dusk or dawn and may do so every 15 to 18 days.
The Yellowheaded Jawfish male guards the eggs which are only 0.8 mm initially. At 4 mm, the larvae have pigmented eyes, a developed jaw, and pectoral and dorsal buds. The original light gray color of the eggs gradually becomes darker, with bright blue eyes seen at 24 hours before hatching. During the last 12 hours, the egg mass is no longer set aside; expulsion and aspiration is done every 5 minutes for the 3 to 4 hours before hatching.
The Yellowheaded Jawfish eggs hatch in 7 to 10 days when kept at 25oC (77oF). Hatching usually takes place shortly after dusk. The fry rise to the surface and swim horizontally just under the surface. They do not have a yolk sac. Those that hatch prematurely still retain their yolk sac and are unable to make it to the surface; they die trying. By the 9th day, the fins are completely formed, and the fry are recognizable as jawfish. By the 15th day, they are 0.6" (1.5 cm) long and will seek a place for their own burrows. Their mature length of 3 to 4" (8 to 10 cm) is reached by one year of age.
Food
In their native environment, jawfish live off of small animals (plankton, crustaceans and fish) that swim or float past their burrows. In captivity, they have been successfully fed live and frozen brine shrimp, white worms, blood worms, glassworms, and finely chopped mussels, fish and crab meat. Some have been persuaded to eat prepared food. One author reported that they will not accept tubifex. A reef tank with lots of live rock could provide an assortment of small crustaceans which may supplement the jawfish's need for small live food. When raising jawfish fry, the first food has to be extremely small. Euplotes has proven to be a good type of fry food for tank-raised jawfish; some have had success using freshly hatched brine shrimp nauplii.
In the Home Aquarium
New acquisitions should be initially quarantined, like all new fish, for a period of a least a few weeks. Introduction into either the quarantine or the permanent tank should be done in subdued light. The tank should be tightly covered and contain lots of hiding places and adequate building material. Initial foods should be live, but with time, your jawfish may learn to accept frozen and prepared food. Do not keep jawfish with big, fast fish. Jawfish do very well in an invertebrate tank as long as there are no stinging anemones.

 

[bluespotjawfish]

Anyone else have something to add...feel free to search through the 1787 posts in our original thread to find more important facts, or offer some opinions about the posts I have added here.

 

[bluespotjawfish]

Just dusting this thread off. Anyone run into any neat posts about Bluespots lately that should be added here?

 

[robsreef]

Just picked up my 3rd BSJF !!! Two in my main tank and one in my nano ~ I'll let you guys know how it goes!!! Hopin' for little guys!!! Tried to use all info and "The Force" to sex 'em ~ hope I did it right. If not - they are so cool either way!!!

 

[lcstorc]

I'm sure it is in the above posts but just to point it out specifically. The two most important things IMO are
1. An entirely closed top with something that has smaller holes than eggcrate. They can and will jump out of the smallest opening including through the squares of the eggcrate. Right now I am using wedding veil material attached via velcro on my tech tank.
2. Rubble, rubble and more rubble. Lots of different sizes including things you can't imagine them moving. Keep adding it periodically and they will use it. I have no idea where it goes but I put in a handful and within a day or maybe 2 it is all gone.

 

[alton]

Jawfish do very well in an invertebrate tank as long as there are no stinging anemones.

I messed up and had a BTA in my tank with my BSJF. I do not know for sure if it led to my BSJF's demise, but I moved it to another tank. So many times when we think of killer anemonies we think of carpets, but a BTA stings also. In another tank once a Purple Tang rubbed against a BTA and was blistered. I also had a GSM Clown swim straight into a BTA and was stung so bad that he laid flat on the sand for a while before swimming off. In a week the two where best of friends.

 

[steved13]

I'm thinking of adding one of these fish to my system. I only have about a 2" substrate, Does aeveryone really run 5"-8"?

 

[kyley]

I have about 2 1/2 - 3" in my tank and it's doing great. Steve, keep in mind this fish has been sick when delivered or soon after for a lot of people lately for some reason. Not the easiest fish to keep and you want to make sure your tank is very mature in my opinion. If you want one, I'd be more concerned about the age of the tank than the depth of the sand.

Take a look at my experience with this fish - and treatment for it when it was sick. I had to spend months helping it recover from dual illnesses. I was rewarded with what's now a happy and healthy fish, still thriving many months later Take care,
--Kyle

 

[kospaintball]

great info

 

[steved13]

Thanks for the info, I'll wait awhile. I like the idea of a fish that will move the substarte around for me and they're pretty cool looking also, but I think I'll wait at least 6 months.

Thanks again

 

[kyley]

Well keep it on your list - it's my favorite fish in the tank. So much personality and so fun to watch as it carries big rocks and shells around... Take care,
--Kyle

 

[joseines]

Hello guys, great forum!
I'm on my third blue spotted jaw fish, and it looks like I'm going to loose another one.
I have a 130 gallon thank with lots of fine sand, all other 10 peaceful fish.
All the blue spotted jaw fish that I had they start out fine for the first 4 weeks, but then they stop eating and their skin gets torn including the fins.
All other 10 fishes are doing ok, I do medicate the thank with copper with great results, but does the blue spotted jaw fish tolerate copper? Maybe this is what is causing their demise?
Also on their diet, I'm giving it frozen brine shrimp and mysis, blood worms too but they don't seem to like it and pellets too.

I've tried feeding it crab meat but they won't take it, maybe I need to chop it more? also I've given it live small fresh water feeder fish, does anyone had experience on this?

Thanks,

Jose.

 

[joseines]

Well my blue spotted jaw fish is doing well, but it did turned out he was being chewed up by a Moorish Idol and a Blue Tang, they were trying to eat him!
He is eating a lot of pellets and when he gets out of his burrow I need to intervene and guide him back. It seems like he doesn't have good memory of the landscape and gets confused.
He also tried to escape through the filter, he went like nemo through all the tubes up and down and eventually got stuck on the filter foams.. I don't know how many days he got to live there, but it was a pain to get him out of there alive. I have to say this one is a fighter..

 

[emmanuel]

anyone keep one with a yellow watchman goby ?
Mine was doing great for a month till I introduced a YWG next thing I know the YWG had a busted lip and the BSJ went into hiding for 2 days with a busted lip and died