I'm newish still and have a couple of corals now. What all do I need to test for , besides amnomia, ph, nitrites, nitrates, calcium....and specific supplements that I need to add to make sure they continue to do well. Also some advice on what people are feeding and having good success with.
what to test for
- Thread starter johnmiami
- Start date
cbrownfish
Well-Known Member
Once you tank is stable, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate will be less important to test for. In a reef tank you will want to regularly monitor Calcium, Alkalinity (or dKH), and Magnesium. pH is best kept in the 8.0-8.3 range, however, the most important thing is pH swing. As long as the pH swing is not more than .2 daily, you won't have major issues (end of lighting cycle is highest, right before lights come on is lowest.....that is your swing).
BigJay
Well-Known Member
I never realized until recently how important this test is. Without it , its hard to determine how to adminastor calcium. I test it more often then anything else.
PH, temperature , salinity are tested second most often (i've just added the aqua control jr so as soon as I get the temp probe fixed and the PH probe calibrated it will be constantly monitored and logged)
Nitrate and calcium usually right after a water change. So once a week.
anything else I test rarely. Only when I feel I have reason to.
So Ca and Mg are then the most important things to test for once the 4 regular ones are stable, right?
Then how about any supplements to add? I have heard of strontium and iodine must be added...Is this true. If so are these things that need to be tested first or added on some frequency.
Then how about any supplements to add? I have heard of strontium and iodine must be added...Is this true. If so are these things that need to be tested first or added on some frequency.
BigJay
Well-Known Member
everything but calcium will be pretty much provided by a good salt mix thats meant for a reef tank. Like instant ocean is great for a fish only but reef crystals (made by instant ocean) will supply all your trace elements (magnesium and iodine included) and almost all your calcium. Just use a good quality salt mix ... then test for alkalinity and calcium. If your alkalinity is low you can use any buffered calcium mix to raise calcium (there are 1 part and 2 part calcium solutions for this) if your alkalinity is high you can use something like calcium chloride to raise your calcium while lowering your alkalnity.
Once you've gotten into a good water change routine take a sample of your water to your local LFS and have them run all the tests on it. I am sure you'll find out you most likley will not need to add anything but a little calcium. When you add calcium you need to measure the dose you add then test your calcium level. Write that number down (you want to be in 380-440ppm(parts per million) range for most reef tanks). Test it in a week before your next water change and see what the change was. Do that for about a month and you'll get a good indicator how much calcium your tank uses in a certain time span to determine how much calcium you generally need to add.
EDIT- I should mention some people prefer to dose their water change water instead of the tank letting it mix for 2 days to a couple weeks. I too prefer this method when possible.
Once you've gotten into a good water change routine take a sample of your water to your local LFS and have them run all the tests on it. I am sure you'll find out you most likley will not need to add anything but a little calcium. When you add calcium you need to measure the dose you add then test your calcium level. Write that number down (you want to be in 380-440ppm(parts per million) range for most reef tanks). Test it in a week before your next water change and see what the change was. Do that for about a month and you'll get a good indicator how much calcium your tank uses in a certain time span to determine how much calcium you generally need to add.
EDIT- I should mention some people prefer to dose their water change water instead of the tank letting it mix for 2 days to a couple weeks. I too prefer this method when possible.
If Mg is low it is hard to get and keep Ca up, you should not have to add Iodine or Stronium with a good salt mix and water changes. Adding Iodine can be detramental to shrimp and lobsters, causeing them to molt prematurally. Now that I know my tank, I rarely test for trates and trites and I do not bother to test for amonia, only Alk, Ca, and Mg, I do a 20%/30gal water change every 2-3 weeks and run phospan and Matrix carbon.
Ditto the magnesium and alkalinity testing.
BigJay:
I am confused. Your testing your nitrate and calcium after your water change rather than before? The level of nitrate before your water change is usually considered an indicator of the amount of water that should be changed. The level of calcium before the water change is generally considered as an indicator for how much calcium you should add in addition to that already being supplied by your water change. If doing frequent water changes it can generally be added to your water change water. Unless you have heavy calcium demands, as then the small amount of water being changed might not allow that much calcium addition if it is already near saturation levels.Calcium and alkalinity are closely tied, their drop is generally proportional and in a predictable manner. Most two part supplements for alkalinity and calcium are diluted to the degree that they are given in equal amounts. However, if you are using Kalkwasser as a water top off then the proportions will be different.
Magnesium is typically used at about one-sixth the rate (as normally diluted in preparation) as calcium and alkalinity supplenment preparations.
Very often with only a small amount of stoney coral in a reef tank that gets frequent partial water changes supplementation is not needed unless you have exceptionally good circulation and lighting. Most reef tanks have fair to good lighting but too poor circulation for fast, heavy stoney coral growth.
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Witfull
Well-Known Member
this is not correct. Ca in a low demand tank will remain high, but the overall bioload of the tank will consume ALK. this results in low alk, and stable Ca. with reefs you cannot talk in generalities due to the various types of tanks that can be set up. also, if someone is in the above scenario and keeps adding Ca and alk in equal porportions their water will become more and more out of balance. as Ca is rising, ALK and Mg will decrease.
Witful you are now very obviously talking in generalities. I did not suggest that anyone should add calcium and alkalinity supplements in equal amounts. I did quite obviously and plainly suggest that one test the water for calcium and alkalinity before doing a water change so that it could be determined if either needed supplementation.
If what your saying is true just regular frequent partial water changes alone would cause a build up of calcium in relation to alkalinity and magnesium. A calcium "low demand tank" that consumes or uses up the alkalinity is a biologically overloaded tank. I would suggest anyone with a tank that has an alkalinity depletion problem such as that preferably lower there bio load. If not then I would recommend that they: increase the size and frequency of their water changes, add remote deep sand beds, add some form of nutrient exportation, or add another protein skimmer, not just mask the problem by adding large amounts of alkalinity supplements.
If the alkalinity and calcium is not being used in proportion then the acids created by a too heavy bio load is using up the alkalinity to maintain the pH, that is a result of an overload situation and in general a load like that should not be in a tank.
I refer to my mentioning testing calcium and alkalinity before water changes. I stated in general not as an absolute that alkalinity and calcium is typically used in proportional amounts. In general in a tank that is stocked at healthy levels the bio load should have very little impact on the alkalinity.
The thread originator is talking about a tank with corals in it. I addressed the fact that supplementation for just a few stoney corals probably is not required. Corals, and other invertebrates as well as Coraline algae use alkalinity and calcium in proportions that commonly repeat and that can be stoichiometrically balanced. Many manufacturers and even Randy Holmes-Farley typically and in general recommend the addition of two part supplements in equal portions.
Yes they also recommend testing before any additions as did I. I merely stated that calcium, and alkalinity and magnesium supplementation in tanks that have a high enough load to need them generally use it is specific proportions and that the mixes are made up proportionally in a manner to make those additions easy. This being that A & B are added generally in equal volumes and C is added in amounts about one-sixth that of either A or B. A = Calcium complex, B= Alkalinity complex, and C = Magnesium complex.
Here I quote Randys introductory paragraph.
"This two-part additive system is similar to the many commercial two-part additive systems. It allows aquarists to supplement calcium and alkalinity without greatly skewing the water's ionic balance (something that is claimed by many of the commercial products, but that is not independently verified). Equal addition of the two parts to a reef aquarium will provide calcium and alkalinity in approximately the same ratio used in calcification by corals and coralline algae."
OK lets not let this thread run a muck also. The guy asked a simple question. Let give him a simple answer. All this over loading of info for beginners is starting to get me upset. He is not going to comprehend all this and needs more simplified answers.
John, Check out this link. The “How To” Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners Part 1: The Salt Water Itself by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
John, Check out this link. The “How To” Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners Part 1: The Salt Water Itself by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
If what I am saying is wrong then a man who has a Doctorates degree in Chemistry and is a noted major contributer to the reef aquarium hobby forums is also generalizing and only you are right. I do not think that the case. I am generalizing a known fact, you are talking about a problem with a problem tank and trying to question the credibility of many people by dragging in the problems of a problem tank, not a scenario. I would hope people who advance to the level of needing supplements do not have to address the problems of your problem tank you are dragging into this discussion for some questionable reason. Your comments would have some weight if the discussion was in a thread where a person said he was having a problem maintaining his Ph or his alkalinity, however that is not the case here.
Would you like the links to Randy Holmes-Farley's postings on two part supplementation or the post with his two part mixes, or perhaps the links to a couple dozen manafacturers, mixers and retailers of two part supplements that base their mixes on this "generalization?" Do you need a link to the site of Randy's Supplements calculator. I am trying to offer help and assistance and share knowledge, that is all. Perhaps you might wish to PM Boomer or Heinz. Even the Balling method in general uses as I say. If you havent noticed I corrected my error about the magnesium. I noticed that you did not use this corrected/editted version. Anyway, it is in general dosed at amounts of about 1/6 th that of the calcium or alkalinity supplement.
Link to Randy's two part supplement mix and the supplement calculator.
An Improved Do-it-Yourself Two-Part Calcium and Alkalinity Supplement System by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
"This two-part additive system is similar to the many commercial two-part additive systems. It allows aquarists to supplement calcium and alkalinity without greatly skewing the water's ionic balance (something that is claimed by many of the commercial products, but that is not independently verified). Equal addition of the two parts to a reef aquarium will provide calcium and alkalinity in approximately the same ratio used in calcification by corals and coralline algae." Randy Holmes-Farley
BigJay
Well-Known Member
your right on my testing fatman. Generally I change the water on Saturday morning and then test my calcium and nitrates that evening. The reasonining is I dose my change water with calcium since i already have a baseline on what my tank uses. My nitrates are 0 so I test then in the evening on Saturday if for some reason I am showing nitrates I would do an additional change on Sunday. My standard water change is 10% a week. And if my calcium is for some reason lower then expected i would schedule an additional dose in the correct proportion on Sunday evening.If my calcium was way out of line I'd continue to schedule dosing and testing to get it back in line. Make sense? Sorry I wasn't clearer on why I do it the way I do.
If my tank was having problems I test almost everyday and base my actions on that and continue testing until my tank is stable.
If my tank was having problems I test almost everyday and base my actions on that and continue testing until my tank is stable.
Cool. Oh that expression is sure a reflection of my age. I am now sitting in a little village on an Interior Alaskan river running my lap top computer with electricity being produced by a generator that uses diesel fuel that costs over $14.00 per gallon delivered. Is that ethical. At least I am not getting paid by the hour while on the computer. Salary and per diem. Plus the stae and Feds pay for my room and board. Definitely no restaurants or hotels/motels here though. Yes, school starts next Thursday, yeah, a break.
Boomer
Reef Sanctuary's Mr. Wizard
Ok so I'm here and feel free to feed back if I missed something or any interpretation.
FM
Calcium and alkalinity are closely tied, their drop is generally proportional and in a predictable manner.
No, they are really not/say. This balance issue is often misunderstood and some take what Randy says and some how run with it. They are closely tied but their "balance " issue only deals with biotic or abiotic precip. If 20 ppm Ca++ leaves solution it must take with it 1 meq / l. That does not mean that if 1 meq / l leaves solution it takes 20 ppmCa++ and it doe not mean it is overloaded.
All tanks have a Alk demand greater than that usually. Meaning if 20 ppm Ca++ leaves solution the drop in Alk may be and usually is greater than 1 meq/l/. Reason, is that many reactions that have nothing to do with Ca++ uptake use Alk. If the Alk demand is higher that the Ca++ demand it does not mean the tank is overloaded. However, some reactions also generate Alk but this depends on the tank in question. A FOT is going to have about zero Ca++ demand but a high Alk demand. If we put a 2 " fish in a 30 gal tank and that is it and do not overfeed it, then yes there will be little impact on pH and Alk.
Very often with only a small amount of stoney coral in a reef tank that gets frequent partial water changes supplementation is not needed unless you have exceptionally good circulation and lighting. Most reef tanks have fair to good lighting but too poor circulation for fast, heavy stoney coral growth.
That is true
Witt
this is not correct. Ca++ in a low demand tank will remain high, but the overall bioload of the tank will consume ALK. this results in low alk, and stable Ca. with reefs you cannot talk in generalities due to the various types of tanks that can be set up. also, if someone is in the above scenario and keeps adding Ca and alk in equal porportions their water will become more and more out of balance. as Ca is rising, ALK and Mg will decrease.
Yes, that can happen but nothing says the Mg++ will decrease. Mg++ does just not leave solution by itself unless you have mangroves in your tank or something that uses it. When Mg++ leaves solution it almost always takes Ca++ with it and produces what we call Hi-Mg-Calcite as abiotic precip or is taken into the skeletons of corals as the same precip. One could get precip's of Mg(OH)2 or MgCO3 but these are something you just are not going to see. You will see Mg(OH)2 at times when you add buffers, especially Kalk or soda as as the local pH is raised so you you get a cloud of Mg(OH)2, which then just dissipates and goes right back into solution., Mg ++ depletion is seawater is low. However, a tank where the Alk is crashing (consuming allot of Alk) all the time is overloaded. Back to the above "
If we put a 2 " fish in a 30 gal tank and that is it and do not overfeed it, then yes there will be little impact on pH and Alk."
FM
I did not suggest that anyone should add calcium and alkalinity supplements in equal amounts. I did quite obviously and plainly suggest that one test the water for calcium and alkalinity before doing a water change so that it could be determined if either needed supplementation.
They are suppose to be added in equal amount unless the conditions show/suggest otherwise. I agree 100 % on the last comment.
A calcium "low demand tank" that consumes or uses up the alkalinity is a biologically overloaded tank. I would suggest anyone with a tank that has an alkalinity depletion problem such as that preferably lower there bio load. If not then I would recommend that they: increase the size and frequency of their water changes, add remote deep sand beds, add some form of nutrient exportation, or add another protein skimmer, not just mask the problem by adding large amounts of alkalinity supplements.
]If the alkalinity and calcium is not being used in proportion then the acids created by a too heavy bio load is using up the alkalinity to maintain the pH, that is a result of an overload situation and in general a load like that should not be in a tank.
Only if the Alk demand is excessive, which I think or hope you mean
In general in a tank that is stocked at healthy levels the bio load should have very little impact on the alkalinity.
This is not worded right at all And is to easy to take out of the context in the way I think you mean. Exp. "I have light loaded SPS tank and I loose 1 dKH /day. Are you saying it is overloaded ? The coral is using the Alk to make aragonite to grow"
Again is only true if the Alk demand is excessive. Alk, Ca++ and Mg++ do not always balance even in a well run system.
From Randy as posted and lets not forget this part ***
"This two-part additive system is similar to the many commercial two-part additive systems. It allows aquarists to supplement calcium and alkalinity without greatly skewing the water's ionic balance (something that is claimed by many of the commercial products, but that is not independently verified). Equal addition of the two parts to a reef aquarium will provide ***calcium and alkalinity in approximately the same ratio used in calcification by corals and coralline algae.***"
again " calcium and alkalinity in approximately the same ratio used in calcification by corals and coralline algae"
This only deals with precip and would also include abotic precip. And says nothing about other Alk demands.
Also there is often confusion o the term Ionic Imbalance, as opposed to Alk/ Ca++ balance. Ionic Imbalance is a disproportionalization of all ions and usually things like to much Sulfate, Sodium or Chloride from sup additions and may include Alk and Ca++ relationships.
I think all need to read these
A Simplified Guide to the Relationship Between Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium and pH by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
When Do Calcium and Alkalinity Demand Not Exactly Balance? by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
FM
Calcium and alkalinity are closely tied, their drop is generally proportional and in a predictable manner.
No, they are really not/say. This balance issue is often misunderstood and some take what Randy says and some how run with it. They are closely tied but their "balance " issue only deals with biotic or abiotic precip. If 20 ppm Ca++ leaves solution it must take with it 1 meq / l. That does not mean that if 1 meq / l leaves solution it takes 20 ppmCa++ and it doe not mean it is overloaded.
All tanks have a Alk demand greater than that usually. Meaning if 20 ppm Ca++ leaves solution the drop in Alk may be and usually is greater than 1 meq/l/. Reason, is that many reactions that have nothing to do with Ca++ uptake use Alk. If the Alk demand is higher that the Ca++ demand it does not mean the tank is overloaded. However, some reactions also generate Alk but this depends on the tank in question. A FOT is going to have about zero Ca++ demand but a high Alk demand. If we put a 2 " fish in a 30 gal tank and that is it and do not overfeed it, then yes there will be little impact on pH and Alk.
Very often with only a small amount of stoney coral in a reef tank that gets frequent partial water changes supplementation is not needed unless you have exceptionally good circulation and lighting. Most reef tanks have fair to good lighting but too poor circulation for fast, heavy stoney coral growth.
That is true
Witt
this is not correct. Ca++ in a low demand tank will remain high, but the overall bioload of the tank will consume ALK. this results in low alk, and stable Ca. with reefs you cannot talk in generalities due to the various types of tanks that can be set up. also, if someone is in the above scenario and keeps adding Ca and alk in equal porportions their water will become more and more out of balance. as Ca is rising, ALK and Mg will decrease.
Yes, that can happen but nothing says the Mg++ will decrease. Mg++ does just not leave solution by itself unless you have mangroves in your tank or something that uses it. When Mg++ leaves solution it almost always takes Ca++ with it and produces what we call Hi-Mg-Calcite as abiotic precip or is taken into the skeletons of corals as the same precip. One could get precip's of Mg(OH)2 or MgCO3 but these are something you just are not going to see. You will see Mg(OH)2 at times when you add buffers, especially Kalk or soda as as the local pH is raised so you you get a cloud of Mg(OH)2, which then just dissipates and goes right back into solution., Mg ++ depletion is seawater is low. However, a tank where the Alk is crashing (consuming allot of Alk) all the time is overloaded. Back to the above "
If we put a 2 " fish in a 30 gal tank and that is it and do not overfeed it, then yes there will be little impact on pH and Alk."
FM
I did not suggest that anyone should add calcium and alkalinity supplements in equal amounts. I did quite obviously and plainly suggest that one test the water for calcium and alkalinity before doing a water change so that it could be determined if either needed supplementation.
They are suppose to be added in equal amount unless the conditions show/suggest otherwise. I agree 100 % on the last comment.
A calcium "low demand tank" that consumes or uses up the alkalinity is a biologically overloaded tank. I would suggest anyone with a tank that has an alkalinity depletion problem such as that preferably lower there bio load. If not then I would recommend that they: increase the size and frequency of their water changes, add remote deep sand beds, add some form of nutrient exportation, or add another protein skimmer, not just mask the problem by adding large amounts of alkalinity supplements.
]If the alkalinity and calcium is not being used in proportion then the acids created by a too heavy bio load is using up the alkalinity to maintain the pH, that is a result of an overload situation and in general a load like that should not be in a tank.
Only if the Alk demand is excessive, which I think or hope you mean
In general in a tank that is stocked at healthy levels the bio load should have very little impact on the alkalinity.
This is not worded right at all
And is to easy to take out of the context in the way I think you mean. Exp. "I have light loaded SPS tank and I loose 1 dKH /day. Are you saying it is overloaded ? The coral is using the Alk to make aragonite to grow"Again is only true if the Alk demand is excessive. Alk, Ca++ and Mg++ do not always balance even in a well run system.
From Randy as posted and lets not forget this part ***
"This two-part additive system is similar to the many commercial two-part additive systems. It allows aquarists to supplement calcium and alkalinity without greatly skewing the water's ionic balance (something that is claimed by many of the commercial products, but that is not independently verified). Equal addition of the two parts to a reef aquarium will provide ***calcium and alkalinity in approximately the same ratio used in calcification by corals and coralline algae.***"
again " calcium and alkalinity in approximately the same ratio used in calcification by corals and coralline algae"
This only deals with precip and would also include abotic precip. And says nothing about other Alk demands.
Also there is often confusion o the term Ionic Imbalance, as opposed to Alk/ Ca++ balance. Ionic Imbalance is a disproportionalization of all ions and usually things like to much Sulfate, Sodium or Chloride from sup additions and may include Alk and Ca++ relationships.
I think all need to read these
A Simplified Guide to the Relationship Between Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium and pH by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
When Do Calcium and Alkalinity Demand Not Exactly Balance? by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
Boomer, I did not go in to detail about ppm concentrations or meq/l usages but just left it at most two part mixes such as Randy's solutions are mixed in concentrations that typically call for mix A to be used in equal amounts with mix B. A being the calcium preparation and B being the alkalinity preparation. I made no mention of mole for mole. If I remember right the Equal volume of A to B means that alkalinity is used up at twice the rate as calcium. As the stoichiometric equation seemed to indicate so. His magnesium blend is set up to be used at about one sixth the volume of the alkalinity or calcium as mixed. My argument agrees with yours that unless these show other wise the Calcium and alkalinity supplements should be given in equal amounts. Yes that means more alkalinity is used I do not argue that and have not.
When I talk about a bio load it has nothing to do with a corals up take of calcium alkalinity or magnesium so I do not know what that was all about. I am referring to the biological load on the nitrifying and denitrifying system. Not every biological process carried out by every organism the tank. I believe that is what most people are referring to when they talk about a tank having a heavy, moderate or light bio load. What I am saying is the bio load cause by organics, such as food and organism wastes is likely to be causing the high alkalinity demand that is all.
As far as heavy bio loads you probably know, as should most other regulars to this forum, I keep SPS tank and I do not keep fish in my SPS tank. If I keep fish I keep them in fish tanks. I do not do mixed reef tanks. I do not recommend people keep mixed reef tanks or keep fish with coral. If every body had huge tanks I would have a different opinion. Even with a 1000 gallon tank that was dominated by SPS corals I would only keep a few accent fish. No I do not keep soft corals with stoney corals either. Nor do I recommend it.
Like you making mocking reference to, if you keep one 2" fish in a 30 gallon tank and do not over feed it there will not be an impact on pH or alkalinity. That sis how it should be, we should not stock at levels that cause pH and alkalinity problems. We really need say no more. Most tanks are grossly overstocked with pooping fish that are usually overfed, and therefore have problems with pH and alkalinity.
The alkalinity and calcium supplements should be used at equal amounts by volume as mixed as they are mixed proportionally. But that does not mean calcium and alkalinity should be added equally. I stated that a tank without a heavy bio load should use the supplements in even amounts. But I did not recommend that it be done blindly but that tests should be the final determination. The logic behind that is the fact that most peoples tanks do not use alkalinity at the levels they would if the bio loads were not high due to overstocking for the amount of maintenance provided. I still stand behind the fact that a reef tank that has a problem maintaining its pH and alkalinity is over stocked with organisms that are producing more wastes than the system can handle, without causing that depletion, even with the efforts provided by the reef keeper.
If a persons water change , filtration and nutrient export system for a 30 gallon is only good enough to handle one 2" fish, without effecting pH and alkalinity my arguments stand ground quite well.
This only deals with precip and would also include abotic precip. And says nothing about other Alk demands.
With a healthy reef tank that is not heavily stocked that is about all we should be dealing with. What you have principally done Boomer is to make it obvious that the typical reef tank uses additional alkalinity because it is overstocked with fish and overfed.
When I talk about a bio load it has nothing to do with a corals up take of calcium alkalinity or magnesium so I do not know what that was all about. I am referring to the biological load on the nitrifying and denitrifying system. Not every biological process carried out by every organism the tank. I believe that is what most people are referring to when they talk about a tank having a heavy, moderate or light bio load. What I am saying is the bio load cause by organics, such as food and organism wastes is likely to be causing the high alkalinity demand that is all.
As far as heavy bio loads you probably know, as should most other regulars to this forum, I keep SPS tank and I do not keep fish in my SPS tank. If I keep fish I keep them in fish tanks. I do not do mixed reef tanks. I do not recommend people keep mixed reef tanks or keep fish with coral. If every body had huge tanks I would have a different opinion. Even with a 1000 gallon tank that was dominated by SPS corals I would only keep a few accent fish. No I do not keep soft corals with stoney corals either. Nor do I recommend it.
Like you making mocking reference to, if you keep one 2" fish in a 30 gallon tank and do not over feed it there will not be an impact on pH or alkalinity. That sis how it should be, we should not stock at levels that cause pH and alkalinity problems. We really need say no more. Most tanks are grossly overstocked with pooping fish that are usually overfed, and therefore have problems with pH and alkalinity.
The alkalinity and calcium supplements should be used at equal amounts by volume as mixed as they are mixed proportionally. But that does not mean calcium and alkalinity should be added equally. I stated that a tank without a heavy bio load should use the supplements in even amounts. But I did not recommend that it be done blindly but that tests should be the final determination. The logic behind that is the fact that most peoples tanks do not use alkalinity at the levels they would if the bio loads were not high due to overstocking for the amount of maintenance provided. I still stand behind the fact that a reef tank that has a problem maintaining its pH and alkalinity is over stocked with organisms that are producing more wastes than the system can handle, without causing that depletion, even with the efforts provided by the reef keeper.
If a persons water change , filtration and nutrient export system for a 30 gallon is only good enough to handle one 2" fish, without effecting pH and alkalinity my arguments stand ground quite well.
This only deals with precip and would also include abotic precip. And says nothing about other Alk demands.
With a healthy reef tank that is not heavily stocked that is about all we should be dealing with. What you have principally done Boomer is to make it obvious that the typical reef tank uses additional alkalinity because it is overstocked with fish and overfed.
Boomer
Reef Sanctuary's Mr. Wizard
I will let this whole post go, almost.
As far as heavy bio loads you probably know, as should most other regulars to this forum, I keep SPS tank and I do not keep fish in my SPS tank. If I keep fish I keep them in fish tanks. I do not do mixed reef tanks. I do not recommend people keep mixed reef tanks or keep fish with coral. If every body had huge tanks I would have a different opinion. Even with a 1000 gallon tank that was dominated by SPS corals I would only keep a few accent fish. No I do not keep soft corals with stoney corals either. Nor do I recommend it.
And about nobody buys into your methods either or recommendations...Sorry Reefs have fish and many reefs are mixed, that is just the way it is. You may want to tell guys like Sanjay, Randy, Tony Vargas and many others they do not know what they are doing and only you do and they are unsuccessful. There are many methods to run reef tanks not just yours. Let me see some pics of this tank/tanks and don't give me any excuse that for some reason you can't. Me ? I don't claim to have any and have not for years and its in my profile.
I guess this guy does not know what he is doing either and it just one of many examples of a well run healthy tank with a high bioload.
ah, one of those pics with a timer packet on it, so it is gone. Link should work
David Saxby | January 2007 Tank of the Month | UltimateReef.Com
YouTube - Aquariums - David Saxby's Reef Aquarium (extended version)
As far as heavy bio loads you probably know, as should most other regulars to this forum, I keep SPS tank and I do not keep fish in my SPS tank. If I keep fish I keep them in fish tanks. I do not do mixed reef tanks. I do not recommend people keep mixed reef tanks or keep fish with coral. If every body had huge tanks I would have a different opinion. Even with a 1000 gallon tank that was dominated by SPS corals I would only keep a few accent fish. No I do not keep soft corals with stoney corals either. Nor do I recommend it.
And about nobody buys into your methods either or recommendations...Sorry Reefs have fish and many reefs are mixed, that is just the way it is. You may want to tell guys like Sanjay, Randy, Tony Vargas and many others they do not know what they are doing and only you do and they are unsuccessful. There are many methods to run reef tanks not just yours. Let me see some pics of this tank/tanks and don't give me any excuse that for some reason you can't. Me ? I don't claim to have any and have not for years and its in my profile.
I guess this guy does not know what he is doing either and it just one of many examples of a well run healthy tank with a high bioload.
ah, one of those pics with a timer packet on it, so it is gone. Link should work
David Saxby | January 2007 Tank of the Month | UltimateReef.Com
YouTube - Aquariums - David Saxby's Reef Aquarium (extended version)
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