Ways to Remove Nitrates!!! Expert Opinions Please!

squidy

Member
Ok, I came across this article as I started my daily SW research. As you can see I am new to the hobby and was hoping to get some opinions on the different products listed.

Although not normally a major problem for most fish, excess nitrate (NO3) in a reef aquarium can be very detrimental the health of corals and many other invertebrates. Aside from using a denitrator unit, a number of methods and materials can be utilized to absorb or convert nitrate to a harmless substance. Here are some nitrate absorbing products considered to be the best to help resolve high nitrate problems in saltwater aquarium and reef tank systems.

1. De-Nitrate by SeaChem
SeaChem, De-Nitrate removes nitrates, nitrites and ammonia. This product comes in loose form and must be contained in a mesh bag or in a filter chamber and placed in the water stream.

2. Purigen
Purigen is a synthetic adsorbent, not a mixture of ion exchangers or adsorbents, but a unique macro-porous synthetic polymer that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water. Purigen removes proteins, nitrites and nitrates, ammonia, and a broad spectrum of organics. Purigen darkens progressively as it exhausts, and is easily renewed by treating with household bleach.

3. Poly-Filter Pad
With the Poly-Bio Filter Pad by Poly-Bio-Marine, Inc., water impurities like phosphate, nitrate, copper, silicate, and even ammonia are absorbed. The pads can be regenerated by simple rinsing in saltwater (saltwater use can be regenerated by the reverse, rinsing in freshwater). Simply roll or cut the pad to any shape, place it inside a canister filter or incorporate it into any type filtration system to easily remove troublesome elements in saltwater aquariums.

4. FilStar Nitra-Zorb
A blend of natural and synthetic ion-exchange resins that selectively remove ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. In new aquariums, Nitra-Zorb controls the level of toxic ammonia and nitrite during initial development of the biological filter. In established aquariums, it helps control sudden surges in ammonia and nitrite caused by the addition of new fish, or anytime ammonia or nitrite is detected.

5. Mangroves
Mangroves are an efficient method of removing nitrates, phosphates and other toxins from a saltwater (or freshwater) aquarium system. Once the plants are acclimated and installed in an aquarium system, they require little maintenance and can add another dimension to the aquarium experience.


Heres the link:
Top Nitrate Absorbing Products to Reduce High Nitrate in Aquariums
 

chipmunkofdoom2

Well-Known Member
I'm not a fan of the nitrate removing resins and chemicals. I feel it's like using duct tape to hold on your rusting muffler. It's a temporary fix that doesn't look at the source of the problem, which, in the case of nitrates, is usually poor water change schedule, overfeeding, or something of the like.

I've never used mangroves, but macro and plants are definitely the way to go. It's all about the Benjamins... these companies are trying to sell you a bag of filter media that you'll have to keep buying over and over. While these chemicals may work, why not go for a cheap, natural and renewable solution? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if you fill your fuge with macro, you'll never need to replace it. Natural filtration is the way to go.
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
Chip is right. Those are indeed "quick" fixes and where I can see someone using them to get you through to a FIX I feel all too many people use them for LONG term help. It's much better to fix the PROBLEM than to fix the symptoms.

As the Marco grows you continually "Prune" it and this physically removes the "lock-up" nutrients they are pulling from the water. It's like a filter media that grows and grows. The gift that keeps on giving :)
 

kospaintball

Active Member
De*Nitrate
Works Best if left in a stagnant area of the tank (which you don't want) where its very pourous rocks can create the bacteria that break nitrates down. It is no different then a pile of live rock rubble.

I would restrain from using any type of pad because of the fact you have to be very religious in your cleaning schedule of that pad. If you don't it could with out a doubt do more harm than help.

And of course mangroves remove the things you don't want in your tank its a macro... now whether or not its the best method?

I personally use chaeto and i think most people would agree that a lump of chaeto in your sump/fuge would be way better than any man made resin or filter.

Chaeto cost you almost nothing. grows so you never have to replace it.

the only thing you have to do with chaeto (or any macro algae really) is give it light. water to be cleaned, and harvest it when it gets too big.
 

squidy

Member
Thanks for your replies. This has shed a little light on this product for me and I hope for others new to the hobby. Because my cabinet does not have space for a sump, (I have a corner tank), I am using a wet/dry filter. I removed all Bio-Balls and placed LR on the bottom so its completely submersed in water. I plan to take a look at the filter chamber and see if I can modify to raise the water level a bit more for some chaeto.
 

squidy

Member
My tank is a 44 gal hex shape. The canister/sump filter has two sections. One side houses the skimmer and the return pump. The second side has a trickle plate and 3 baskets for media. I currently have LR at the bottom in the water, the middle basket is empty and the top contains floss filter pad and a carbon bag. Im thinking I can add a plexi divider about 6-8” from the bottom to raise the water level on that side and add cheato. I should also be able to use the plexi to rest the top basket on in which will continue to contain the carbon. Does this sound realistic? The reservoir containing the LR and chaeto would only be about 8”x8” and 6-8” deep. The one thing I don’t have figured out is a way to get light in there. It is made of clear acrylic. Would this allow enough light for the chaeto?
 

kospaintball

Active Member
How big is your tank? I've seen this application many times on nanos and I think you could easily get a used HOB filter and set it up like this.

Reef Central Online Community - How to DIY an AC 70 fuge

Now you won't need the filter media, just the grate to stop the cheato from running back into the display.

Not Identically but that is how i have my fuge...

I almost had a tank crash (my nitrates were 160+, i don't know how much exactly because that is the highest number my test shows) so i added this HOB fuge with an old HOB filter i had and a extra light... it cost me $0 to put my fuge on.

works great in 1 week it was down to 40 a few days later it was at 20.

Im keeping my regular water schedule and with this next one i should have it right at 0-5
 
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