Tool Used To Cut RSM Skimmer Panel?

[aramis]

Hi all - I recently received my LifeReef pre-filter box (and sump) and I need to make a semi-circle cut-out in the skimmer panel to make it fit. Curious as to what tool anyone used to make this cut. I have a Dremel, but haven't used it much. Any specific Dremel bit or cutting wheel that might work without melting the plastic? Thanks in advance!

 

[Reefmack]

Good question aramis. I'd like to know also. I have a Dremel but have always wondered what the best cutting wheel is for plastic. I've used mine on plastic but I don't think the wheels I've used were the best choices for the job, and my cuts were not very clean. You might also post the question in the equipment forum to get an answer.

 

[aramis]

Terry - if we don't get the answer here I'll re-post in the equipment forum as you suggested - glad you're interested in what to use too!

 

[Reefmack]

Yep - the instructions on the Dremel wheels and what is best to use for cutting plastic are not very helpful to me.

 

[tnwillia]

aramis..... Are you not using the left chamber removable fan port to mount your Lifereef pre-filter? I'll look at my dremel and see which wheels you need.

 

[tnwillia]

Here's a link to the plastic cut off wheel. Use your dremel at the lowest speed. Even there it will start to melt the plastic as it cuts. It also throws stuff everywhere.

I've not cut where your I think your trying to go. Everyone who got this pre-filter 130 or 250 pretty much bring it in the same way by removing the cooling fan panel and cutting out a piece at the top of that port to set it down in the chamber.

Sounds like your trying something new, please put up pictures after as this will be a new option for overflows. Good luck!

Dremel EZ476 Ez Lock Plastic Cutting Wheels - www.internationaltool.com

 

[Reefmack]

Tom - do you have a picture of your installed LifeReef? That might help aramis, as he has a 250.

On the 130 the LifeReef just sits on the current back lip, with no cutting needed on the lip, and a cutout is made in the skimmer flap to fit over the U-tube.

 

[tnwillia]

I'll get one in here shortly. Thanks Terry!

 

[redsea reefer]

you could use a hole saw bit.

 

[cabolick]

I don't really know what kind of plastic you are needing to cut, but a regular hole saw will not be a good choice. The teeth are spaced to far apart. If it were me I'd use a pair of dividers or a compass and scribe the hole as deep as possible, then maybe use an xacto blade or a coping saw to cut it out. A dremel tool will spin too fast and make a sloppy cut. One aw poop and you have a mess. Hope you are successful!

Chris B

 

[tnwillia]

aramis.... here are a few pictures of how I put mine in my 250. Hope it helps!

 

[Reefmack]

Thanks for posting the pictures Tom! They may be helpful to a lot of folks. I learn a bit more about the 250 every time I see pics like this.

 

[tnwillia]

Not a problem. I wish I had something like this when I started my tank.

 

[tnwillia]

aramis.... When you get it in your going to have to raise your overflow gate to raise the water level in the back. Your going to have to play with the back level to find the spot that gets your water flow down to your sump and back just right so you don't overflow your sump on power outages by back flow. Once I found that spot, I've not changed my gate setting since. My water level is above the monitor window on the left side. The pre-filter also sets fine above the pump in the left chamber and there is clearance on the pump hose up to the port. Setting all this up was the only time I've overflowed my sump "so far" Good luck!

 

[aramis]

Thanks for everyone's comments and suggestions. Here's a few of my own:

1) I was able to make the cut using my Dremel. At the Home Depot I found a 'Plastic Cuttting (EZ476)' attachment that worked like a charm - cut right through the hood with minimal melting - smoothed the cut out with one of the regular Dremel sanding pieces. BWT, the EZ476 attachment required a 'Mandrel (EZ402)' mount.

2) I bought the Model A LifeReef sump (sump combined with Jeff's protein skimmer). After two RSM skimmer pump failures I decided to remove it and put the overflow/pre-filter in it's place (thus requiring the cut-out on the skimmer panel). Since I have my sump output going through my chiller, I did remove the fans and have my return going into the left chamber. A couple of comments on this configuration:

a. With the stock skimmer removed, I did not see a reason to regulate the flow to the back chamber, so I have the overflow gate all the way down. I was able to regulate flow to my sump and return to the tank very easily with this configuration.

b. Since Jeff provided a standard return u-tube, I currently have my sump return going directly into the left chamber (coming through the fan openings). Tom, I know you (and others) have bypassed the left chamber and directed the flow back into the DT and I may still do this too. But with the the return being injected directly into the left chamber, and the pull of the left chamber pump, is there much of a benefit bridging the left chamber as you have done? I assume you had to make another cut in the hood to make room for the the return hose? One other (maybe minor) benefit of having the return go directly into the left chamber is that I'm now able to use the RSM filter cartidge with the polishing filter full time since I don't have to worry about it starving the left chamber with water as was previously the case.

I've only had this configuration since yesterday, so maybe I've made some hidden mistakes or bad assumptions. But so far so good. Thanks again for all of the replys and pictures. I'll take some of my own set-up and post them shortly.

 

[tnwillia]

Aramis.... I'm assuming you bought Jeffs Model A without any other modifications and it fit under the cabinet? I may have measured bad but I thought it was bigger than the usable space under there. You may be opening some doors for other with his Sumps/fuges. Yes, please post pictures when you can, You may have found a better way to do it.

I have my water high in the back mainly because that was what I had to do to get the flow up to the overflow cup set as low as it would go.

Where I bypassed was the right chamber with my chiller flow. I agree with you, I kept the left side pump standard to add/maintain the circulation of the water in the back chambers.

In my pictures you see a blue flex hose by my Lifereef. That is my return going back into my DT. Works great, It's a 12" flex 1/2" hose from Lowe's where they sell yard irrigation stuff. I didn't have to do anything to allow it to pass under the hood. Remember to drill your siphon break hole in this path just under your water line.

Glad It worked out for you... will be looking for the pictures. Thanks!

 

[aramis]

Tom - yes, I did buy Jeff's Model A, but gave him 16x16x14 dimensions to get it to fix exact. I'm waiting a few days to post pics since I did not receive a connection that I need to set-up my in-sump skimmer. I figure it will be best to have one set of pics with my complete set-up. Thanks again for all of the info and tips - your tank looks great and I admire your set-up.