HELP! Steve's LEDs acting strange


Well-Known Member
Hi all

As documented in my reef thread, I've undergone a rebuild on the C130 having moved and sadly needed to replace both the stock pump and the wet side of my MP10 - and I thought they were the only casualties but my LEDs seem to be acting weird.

I've got the Typhoon Controller programmed as before, so on 9am with a 1.5 hr fade, off at 6pm with same fade times. Extension wire is plugged into the unit as per the instructions, so black wire at top and towards the front.

Having had the tank filled now with NSW, I'm running the lights in and have noticed that they don't appear to be fading, or going off (unless via the manual timer I've got hooked up to the lights PSU).

The digits on the controller are going up/down accordingly but nothing is changing on the LEDS.

That said, I set all LEDs to 0 and did notice it get bluer.

Could it be a problem with the controller or the LEDs?

Jeff (@StevesLEDs) - are you able to offer any advice at all please?



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Sounds like you have it plugged in towards the front,
Extension wire is plugged into the unit as per the instructions, so black wire at top and towards the front.

It should be plugged in towards the back. That should get you up and running!



Well-Known Member
Thanks Jeff.

Sadly it didn’t work, but I think I’ve worked it out - the connectors appear loose. I had the controller in my hand after switching the lead round and when I moved, the lights changed to a more blue shade, and then back when moving position back again.

The controller is counting down on fade so only thing I can think of is the connection as the leds are on - just no signal getting to them from the controller. Need to find a way to sort connections and I should be back up and running as I feared the worse last night lol.


Well-Known Member
Had a look at the connections, and they seem tight so really unsure Jeff as to what could be wrong?


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So the saga with these LEDS rumbles on.

I did post something in my tank thread and another post but they seem to have disappeared when the site had issues a few weeks back. Basically, the driver board packed up and only one array of LEDS worked. After much deliberation and cursing, I ordered a replacement driver from Steve’s and waited for it to be put together and shipped - nearly 6 weeks, and running on all blues!!!

Long story short, went to replace yesterday and opening the hood, noticed square security screw heads holding driver to heat sink. Ordered some bits as no where local had any and attempting to finally fix today - I notice it’s had thermal paste applied which I just didn’t think about ffs.

Tank is dark 36 hours now and when trying to refit old ones, they are totally dead now! Aargh.

Question - would Arctic Mx-4 paste work? It’s not needing to conduct any electricity.

Getting worried about corals and more annoyed as the days pass by now and that it wasn’t mentioned when reaching out to Steve’s.


JoePa lives on!!!
Staff member
So Steve’s doesn’t have advice on how to do it? I wouldn’t think the paste has a short term impact


Well-Known Member
I’ve reached out again but their turnaround time for responses can be 3-5 days, which I guess is normal. I didn’t realise it was needed or I’d have ordered some from them at the same time - thinking about it now though, through conversations with them over a solution to my problem, I would have hoped they would have suggested it knowing what I was needing to do. Hey ho, you live and learn I guess. Just annoyed at the time it’s taking.


Well-Known Member
Hallelujah! We’re back up and running. The thermal paste turned up about an hour ago and it’s all been swapped over and the lights are finally bright once again lol. But, and don’t you just hate them...I still can’t get the Typhon controller to work as it once did. All seems ok on the actual unit, as it ramps up/down etc, but no signal getting to unit driver.
The instructions show wires going to different slots than the way it was wired but all worked before. Going to try and replace the dupont connectors and see if that works. Failing that, may need to source some 22 gauge wire locally and replace, as that’s the only thing left that could be wrong - should have just ordered from Steve’s when getting the driver board..oh, and the damn thermal paste lol