Looking good! From the drawing, do you run all three pipes simultaneously and then adjust the valves for balance? Will all three pipes flow independently to destination or will they connect through a manifold?
Hi, Uslanja:
Thanks for your post! No, the design doesn't really do the things you suggest. BeanAnimal's design is best explained by the master, himself, at the post where he first described it at:
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System - Reef Central Online Community.
It works like this: (1) the Emergency Standpipe (far left pipe) stays dry and is only used if the other two pipes clog or fail, causing the water to rise to the upturned-elbow level, at which time it would fully sipon down the emergency standpipe, preventing a flooded tank; (2) the Siphon Standpipe (middle pipe) runs all the time and is set to slightly less than full drain capacity (even if that means the valve is closed almost all the way--it just depends how closed the valve needs to be, to meet the goal of draining most of the water that is being pumped into the tank, from down below in the sump)--and given that it is a siphon, it will move a LOT of water out, even in a small, 1.5" pipe; and (3) the Open-Channel Standpipe (far right pipe) carries the small remainder of water not being handled by the Siphon Standpipe, mixed with air (Durso effect accomplished by the red airline hose that allows air into the pipe, preventing a siphon under non-flooding conditions), to prevent excessive noise.
Yet, the red airline hose has a dual feature, whereby it stops allowing air to pass through its bent end that hangs over the water, when its "straw"-like, open end is suddenly displaced by rising water in the overflow box (as in a flood situation). If the water in the overflow box rises to the level of the downturned, red, airline hose on the middle standpipe, the airline hose will be "clogged" by water. Once clogged by water, the red airline hose would no longer allow air to pass through it. This would convert the open-channel standpipe from a durso (air/water) pipe to a complete siphon pipe, greatly expanding its flow rate, to evacuate excessive water in an emergency situation. It sends that extra, would-be, flooding water quickly down the standing pipe into the sump. The theory is that a water siphon (pure water, no air) flows MUCH more water than water passing down an open-air drain.
So Bean's design here aims to prevent floods, which I cannot have, given that I am going to set up my tank in my work office. Only the valve in the sipon line is really necessary, to dial back the flow just a bit. I could remove the valves in the other lines, but I may keep them for testing purposes. Plus, the tru-union quick disconnect feature is necessary because I am flood testing the set up at home, and, once it passes muster, I will break it down and set it up in my office. So portability is accomplished by the tru union ball valve disconnects.
I showed my drawing to Bean on his thread and asked him for his comment. Bean advised me to scale down the size of the bulkhead and piping from 1.5 to about 1.0 inches. His theory is that the 1.5" plumbing system is beyond overkill, becoming an eyesore for such a small tank. So I will slightly modify the schematic of what I am drilling.
These drains will not connect, but remain separate, to perform their independent, check-and-balance functions. If they were to be joined in a manifold, the open-air channel would send air through the siphon channel, thereby defeating it. Other problems could arise, if the manifold became clogged or failed in any way. The three lines need to be separate and inviolate. They will each terminate below the surface of the water in the sump below. I hope this all made sense. I just learned of the design only last week, and it took me many readings to understand it. :turntable
Thanks for a good question!