Sky Reef's Nano Cube Mod Diary (JBJ Nano Cube 28-Gallon HQI)

jpsika08

Well-Known Member
Great mod, cool, you're installing the same overflow I have in my tank (From BeanAnimal), just use 1 gate valve for the capped durso (Middle one) and leave the others open, also, place 45 degree angles for the three pipes when going into the sump, for better flow, and at the end of the three pipes they should be 1" below sump water surface for noiseless operation.

Great project. Good luck.
 

SkyReef

Member
Great mod, cool, you're installing the same overflow I have in my tank (From BeanAnimal), just use 1 gate valve for the capped durso (Middle one) and leave the others open, also, place 45 degree angles for the three pipes when going into the sump, for better flow, and at the end of the three pipes they should be 1" below sump water surface for noiseless operation.

Great project. Good luck.

Thanks JPsika! Quick question. Of late, Bean has encouraged me to use less than 1.5" bulkhead and plumbing. What sizing did you use, and what kind of pump are you using for your sump? Also what GPH are you flowing out of your Nano 28 with this design?

Thanks, again!
 

seafansar

Well-Known Member
So...ummm...why exactly did you get an all in one if you were just going to remove everything? You know they make small cubes without all the back stuff. lol. Do you just like the look of the JBJ? Also, how are you going to attach the lights since you took out the piece they attach to?
 

SkyReef

Member
So...ummm...why exactly did you get an all in one if you were just going to remove everything? You know they make small cubes without all the back stuff. lol. Do you just like the look of the JBJ? Also, how are you going to attach the lights since you took out the piece they attach to?

Hi, Seafansar: Good questions! I got the all-in-one NanoCube from JBJ because I liked the cube design and thought it might be sufficient. At the time, having an external refugium hadn't occurred to me. Plus, I underestimated one's ability to modify tanks. My vision outgrew my tank. So I was stuck with the choice of: (1) having an external refugium that I really wanted, while wasting the all-in-one design of the Nano Cube; or (2) sticking with the all-in-one design of the stock Nano Cube, but not having the refugium I wanted.

As for the Bio Cube, I got it on clearance, knowing that I was not going to use the all-in-one. I liked the size (14-gal) and the BioCube's shape, thinking it would be a nice compliment as a side-by-side tank to the NanoCube, as a dedicated refugium. I didn't know I could just order the cubes. Now that you say that, if I had to do it over again, I would definitely buy the cubes stripped down, without all the partitions and sumps, and for much cheaper, I suspect.

As for the hood, I have not gotten rid of the clip pieces they attach to. They're sill on the frame of the tank. Nevertheless, I probably won't use them, since I intend to raise the hood off the tank at some point in the future, with large, clip-ons supports. Did I answer your questions?
 

Eric

Google Warrior
PREMIUM
Hey, Eric:

Thanks for the question. I would say yes, I lost structural support by removing the partition wall and sump chambers. How much structual loss was actually caused here, I can't rightly say. However, please keep in mind that, after installing the new Calfo/Coast-to-Coast skimmer-flow-box (a two-piece structure of glass that forms the shape of an L"), new structural support will be added back to tank, given that the flow box will connect the the right and left sides of the tank. So this will ADD new structural properties that were not there before. Ultimately, the add/loss calculation escapes me. I am hunching that I'll be fine.

Also, please note that the Nano Cube is basically two pieces of glass (not 4)--the front and sides, being one, single, "bent" piece of glass, and the back side of the tank being the second, sealed pane. Hence, I am guessing that this bent-glass design imparts greater structural strength, as compared to four pieces held together by sealant. However, I have no science handy to back that up, just pure supposition on my part. I could be wrong on that point.

But I'll be the guinea pig, and let you know! Did you have any impression one way or another as to whether I will be able to do without the structural support offered by the stock partition-wall-sump-chamber assembly? Please let me know. Thanks!

I still don't trust a nano cube when they first came out everyone we sold at the LFS came back cracked in the front for no apparent reason, I'm talking like 20 of these things so even though they seemed to have fixed that problem any major mod like that would make me really nervous, Just something to keep in mind.
 

jpsika08

Well-Known Member
Thanks JPsika! Quick question. Of late, Bean has encouraged me to use less than 1.5" bulkhead and plumbing. What sizing did you use, and what kind of pump are you using for your sump? Also what GPH are you flowing out of your Nano 28 with this design?

Thanks, again!

SkyReef, for your size of tank I think 1" is more than enough, I think you get 900GPH with that size of tubing per durso. I don't have a 28 Nano, but the return I'm targeting at is somewhere from 2,000 to 3,000 GPH. I have a Reeflo Gold Dart on the return, I preferred an external pump as it doesn't transfer heat to the water.

Regardless on the size of the aquarium or GPH, this system should work as a charm giving you peace of mind as it has been proven effective.

Any advice from Bean, take it as he is the mastermind behind this and who basically improved an already similar system (Herbie's system which consists only on two pipes and no emergency durso).

Anyway I can help you, I'll be glad to do so, :)
 

SkyReef

Member
I still don't trust a nano cube when they first came out everyone we sold at the LFS came back cracked in the front for no apparent reason, I'm talking like 20 of these things so even though they seemed to have fixed that problem any major mod like that would make me really nervous, Just something to keep in mind.

Hi, Eric.

Thanks for your insights. I'll be careful to watch for cracking.
 

SkyReef

Member
SkyReef, for your size of tank I think 1" is more than enough, I think you get 900GPH with that size of tubing per durso. I don't have a 28 Nano, but the return I'm targeting at is somewhere from 2,000 to 3,000 GPH. I have a Reeflo Gold Dart on the return, I preferred an external pump as it doesn't transfer heat to the water.

Regardless on the size of the aquarium or GPH, this system should work as a charm giving you peace of mind as it has been proven effective.

Any advice from Bean, take it as he is the mastermind behind this and who basically improved an already similar system (Herbie's system which consists only on two pipes and no emergency durso).

Anyway I can help you, I'll be glad to do so, :)

Hi, JPSika:

Thanks for your supply and confidence in Bean's system. It seems that I'll go with 3/4 inch bulkheads feeding the 3 standpipes. Then I will use a bushing on the open-channel to increase that standpipe's size to 1 inch. As for the Emergency and Siphon standpipes, 3/4" PVC should suffice. That was Bean's final suggestion, and I'm going to go with it, barring any last-minute advice from him on this plumbing plan. Glad to hear the system has worked like a charm for you. Thanks again.
 

SkyReef

Member
Hi SkyReef! Looking forward to seeing the drilling and coast to coast overflow!!

Hi, Uslanja:

I was bogged down last week in painting the back glass-panel of the tank (black), and pictures will be posted very soon. Then, this week I got bogged down in a plumbing-size guagmire. Original advice suggested going with 3/4" bulkheads, but then the naysayers won me over. I now plan on drilling 1" bulkheads, but I already ordered the 3/4" plumbing, which will have to be sent back and re-ordered. If that weren't enough, my office life is really heating up with insane workloads and deadlines. So it will be catch as catch can. But thanks for asking!
 

SkyReef

Member
Howdy Again!

Sorry for the delay in posting progress. I was busy at work and could not put this mod-diary together before today.

Here is the photo-documentation on Phase II of my Nano-Cube Mod: Painting the Back of the Tank before Drilling Bulkhead Holes. All comments welcome!

Thanks!
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Uslanja

Active Member
The mod and paint is looking real nice! Well done!! Incredible documentation!! You could be a technical writer!!
 

phishphan

New Member
Hi SkyReef,
I am new to this site when I was surfing for information on modifying my 28 gal JBJ. I want to remove the plastic dividers in the rear of the tank but my tank is up and running.
Do you think I could remove these partitions without creating a nightmare?
Thanks,
Karen
 

SkyReef

Member
Hi SkyReef,
I am new to this site when I was surfing for information on modifying my 28 gal JBJ. I want to remove the plastic dividers in the rear of the tank but my tank is up and running.
Do you think I could remove these partitions without creating a nightmare?
Thanks,
Karen

Hi, Phishphan:

If you go back to the first page of this thread, you will see the answer to your question: Yes. That's how my NanoCube diary starts out: by removing the rear sump. I have detail-by-detail instructions with pictures on how I did it. Keep posted on this thread because I will be posting a LOT more pictures of my progress since my last post. Right now, I am so far ahead of my last post, that I have already drilled holes in the back glass, installed a coast-to-coast/Calfo overflow box, frosted the side square of the overflow box with white-frost paint, built a sump from scratch, with only panels of glass that I ordered from a glass shop (the sump will go in the JBJ stand beneath the NanoCube). Finally, I am putting the PVC together to allow the water to go to my sump. Again, I will post all these pictures, when I can catch my breath. It's very fun.

So, yes, I have removed the partitions, with an eye toward an overflow box and a sump. You have to have the desire to do it, and spend a little money to modify your tank. If that sounds like you, then yes.

Post script: I had absolutely NO experience modifying tanks, before I got started on the Nano Cube modification. So if I can do it, so can you. Consider: I never drilled a glass hole before; I never scraped and cleaned off silicone from a tank before; I didn't even KNOW what a coast-to-coast/Calfo overflow box (nor did I know how it worked), let alone build one; I never built a sump out of bare glass before; I never painted a tank before; and I never worked with PVC before.

So experience is not necessary to do these things. Now that I have educated myself and gained experience on how to do these things, I am looking for my next project: a rehab of my old Eclipse 37-gallon, all-in-one tank, which will be modified out next, replete with holes drilled in the tank, a coast-to-coast/Calfo box, a sump, and very cool stuff.

Good Luck! Let me know what you decide!
 

phishphan

New Member
Thanks for the response, I have watched with amazement your detailed process and appreciate the vote of confidence. My one major hurdle is that my tank is up and running not empty like your project is, and I will not be removing the separation panel as you did, just the chamber pieces. So, am I biting off more that I can chew to work in a water filled sump to cut the epoxy (?) holding the panels in place?
 

SkyReef

Member
Thanks for the response, I have watched with amazement your detailed process and appreciate the vote of confidence. My one major hurdle is that my tank is up and running not empty like your project is, and I will not be removing the separation panel as you did, just the chamber pieces. So, am I biting off more that I can chew to work in a water filled sump to cut the epoxy (?) holding the panels in place?

Hi, Phish:

I see now what you were saying. You want to remove the chambers, but not the partition. Wow. That will be a tight fit, Harry Houdini! Those chambers are so small, that you'll have your stubborn work cut out for you, in getting all the chambers removed--all the way down to the bottom of the sump.

During my tank modification, that wasn't even in the question because, as far as I was concerned the partition and the chambers were all one, jammed-up contraption. I'm not even sure I actually removed the all sections of the chambers, themselves, at the very bottom (where remnants remained after I broke off pieces of the chambers), before I removed the sump wall. To completely remove the chambers, you will need good leverage--to get way down in the sump to remove the chambers, and I didn't have that leverage (but I didn't need it because I was removing everything).

It might be easier to break whatever portions of the chambers that you can, to get the requisite looseness to yank out the sump-partion wall. Once the sump-partition wall is on your kitchen table, you can finish breaking off the chambers from the wall. Then you might be able to put the partion wall back in your tank, if it is not too banged up in the removal process.

But that will be a most challenging task, while your livestock is still in the tank. My hunch is that you may want to move your livestock to another tank while you remodel your Nano. You need maneuverability back there, pulling here, yanking there, and occasionally bumping into things. Moving around like that in an empty tank is a breeze; trying to do that without disturbing any other rock or fish or sand or coral will be next to impossible. And what of the water that is filled in the sump? That will complicate things too.

An analogy comes to mind: to do this task (hard enough on its own with an empty tank!) with a completely full tank without disturbing any livestock or seascape features would be like a dentist trying to pull an impacted tooth with his or her thumb and index finger only (no tools), while trying not to touch the adjacent teeth.

I am not sure it can be done, in the manner you suggest. I think you will need the freedom of an empty tank, and even then, you will probably have to have great patience with a pair of long-handled pliers, to get way down low in the sump to remove the chamber pieces at the very bottom of the sump. Then you would probably have to water test the partition wall again, to make sure you didn't loosen the sealant's adhesion somewhere--and that would require draining the tank (or at the very least the sump). In the end, I think you'll prefer to drain the tank, for ease of work and to have 100% confidence that the job was done right without harm to the sealant or to livestock.

I wish you luck in your adventure. Let me know how it goes!

P.S. - Why do you want to remove the chambers of your sump? What are your plans?
 

phishphan

New Member
Hi, Phish:

I see now what you were saying. You want to remove the chambers, but not the partition. Wow. That will be a tight fit, Harry Houdini! Those chambers are so small, that you'll have your stubborn work cut out for you, in getting all the chambers removed--all the way down to the bottom of the sump.

During my tank modification, that wasn't even in the question because, as far as I was concerned the partition and the chambers were all one, jammed-up contraption. I'm not even sure I actually removed the all sections of the chambers, themselves, at the very bottom (where remnants remained after I broke off pieces of the chambers), before I removed the sump wall. To completely remove the chambers, you will need good leverage--to get way down in the sump to remove the chambers, and I didn't have that leverage (but I didn't need it because I was removing everything).

It might be easier to break whatever portions of the chambers that you can, to get the requisite looseness to yank out the sump-partion wall. Once the sump-partition wall is on your kitchen table, you can finish breaking off the chambers from the wall. Then you might be able to put the partion wall back in your tank, if it is not too banged up in the removal process.

But that will be a most challenging task, while your livestock is still in the tank. My hunch is that you may want to move your livestock to another tank while you remodel your Nano. Just a thought. Let me know how it goes!

So you don't have to use your crystal ball, I left out my reason to modify. It is to
install a AquaC Remora skimmer (don't have one yet) but looking at the specs and reading reviews it sounds like the most efficient for the JBJ 28. It may be more work and stress on my fish to attempt this modification. I don't like the reviews of the skimmer that JBJ makes for my tank.
 

SkyReef

Member
So you don't have to use your crystal ball, I left out my reason to modify. It is to
install a AquaC Remora skimmer (don't have one yet) but looking at the specs and reading reviews it sounds like the most efficient for the JBJ 28. It may be more work and stress on my fish to attempt this modification. I don't like the reviews of the skimmer that JBJ makes for my tank.

Hi, Phishphan:

Well, here's the thing I omitted this morning. Take a look at the picture in my diary where the sump-partition-wall has been removed. You will see that I was successful in removing the inner two baffles with twisting, bending, and breaking. However, if you look at the part of the "chambers" that remained after the wall was ripped out, you will see something very interesting: the outer, vertical baffles were mostly removed (broken away), but the horizontal, plastic baffle-floor that connected the two, outer baffles remained. What does this tell us? Well, it shows that the inner baffles are a breeze to remove, in comparison. How are you going to get down there and remove a baffle that is not even vertical, but a horizontal floor connecting to vertical baffles? You can't really get your hand that far down. You'll have to get very creative. I'm not sure a dremmel could be positioned correctly to snap off that horizontal floor-baffle part. If it matters that much, sure, you could do it. But you'd have to study the picture to which I refer, of the removed sump-wall, to formulate a strategy to remove that horizontal portion between the outer, vertical baffles.

But this leads to a bigger question: why not just dispense with the chambers AND wall, altogether, and put a more powerful skimmer in a new sump below the aquarium? Effortwise, all you would need do is temporarily move your fish to another tank, rip out the partition wall and chambers, drill 3 holes (very easy to do, just check out how I did it in this YouTube video: YouTube - Drilling Glass Aquarium: Nano Cube Modification). Then you could pick how you wanted to run your drainline. You could go high end, as I did, if you wanted to do that. In the end, you would have a primo tank. Just a thought.

Either way, good luck! You can do it your way, by just removing the baffles, but please, study the picture in my diary of the removed sump wall, and boldly plan how you will attack that horizontal baffle-floor! I have faith in you. Persistence and a pair pliers may be all you need!

By the way, here is the picture I am talking about:
NanoCubeModDiary09.jpg
 

phishphan

New Member
Wow Sky, that picture is worth a thousand words. Thank you. Armed with the information you so willingly shared, I am going to jump in with both feet and
go for it. I will let you know what happens as I progress or if I have a nervous
breakdown.
phishphan
 
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