RO/DI unit question

blackwater

Active Member
HI, how important is the "DI" in RO/DI. i have a Spectrapure 3 stage RO unit (90GPD). Will this work for reefs? or do i need a DI unit as well?
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
I think it's highly suggested you get the DI add-on. This finishes the process and really "strips" the nasty out of the water. Look at it like this... water is your single largest component of your system so it's the one thing you want to "Get Right" to the best of your ability :)
 

blackwater

Active Member
thanx. i had a feeling about that. i bought the unit before knowing anything about reefing:smack: i'll see if i can get a add on DI for it
 

blackwater

Active Member
just sent a e-mail off to the site i got it from. may hear back about it tonight or in the morning....they usually get back to me pretty quick. should have just got it all at once...live and learn lol.
 
I think it's highly suggested you get the DI add-on. This finishes the process and really "strips" the nasty out of the water. Look at it like this... water is your single largest component of your system so it's the one thing you want to "Get Right" to the best of your ability :)

I have the 5 stage brs rodi, 1tds from membrane and 0 tds from DI. I tested the water for nitrates, 0 and phosphates had a tint of green from API.

Does the RODI strip all phosphates from the water?
 

reefguy

Member
I go from 235 tds.. DC water too 0 tds in a three stage . No algae issues or problems in my tank.
 

Choff

Well-Known Member
+1 to brs.

You may want to consider adding 2 DI units. This sounded silly to me when I first started a year ago, but now it makes perfect sense. What you will find is I have the latter stages of your DI exhausting your tds will creep up. For me from 0 to 1 or 2 even though there is still some "blue" resin left(assuming you get the color changing resin). I would change out the resin because I only want 0 tds water.

Now with 2 units, I can let that first one totally exhaust because the 2nd one has me covered. Now I pull DI unit 1 and move DI unit 2 into the first slot. I refill the exhausted DI 1 unit and now place that one in the second slot

Now, the resin is not that expensive and it will take a couple of years for this to pay off financially, but for 40 bucks its an extra layer of insurance and you don't have to pay as close attention to when your DI goes. My unit is automated to fill my storage tanks and sits in the basement by the furnace so I don't think about it a lot.

I just added this 2nd DI a month ago because my RO membrane went and I didn't realize it. It chewed up my resin and was then filling my storage tanks with 25+ tds water that I did 2 WCs with. Realized it when brown algea showed up in my tank.

I also use close to 60g of ro water /wk for WC and ATO.

Just my 2 cents..

Sent using Tapatalk 2
 

reefguy

Member
I would also spend the 30$ for an inline TDS meter. That way you know what you are starting out with and what is coming out after it is filtered.

I have one and it's great!
 

burning2nd

Well-Known Member
Di is like the wax after wash...

you can do it half way... but until its waxed its not reallly done


ive added a few extra Pre filters and a few extra post Di filters to my setup... simply for longer life
 

magnum

Member
I have a typhoon III 5 stage with a in-line TDS meter going in and out I have had the unit 2 years and never changed the filters. My water is pretty good going in only 40 to 80 TDS and always 0 TDS out.
 
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