red slime algae question

sambrinar

Well-Known Member
Re: Vermetid snails

Ok here are the picts of the snails and the chit. I am really getting frustrated with this tank. I love the hobby, but definately should have gotten a bigger tank!!!!

I am planning on adding a sump, hopefully that will help. any ideas on the types of snails would be great too. sorry some of them are blurry, my camera doesn't like the bowfront. main concern is on top right, between chaeto and rock.
 

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jcgardner

Member
Re: Vermetid snails

brenda will repost them tonight when she get home, she was home for lunch. it will be in about 3.5 hours from now about 5:30 pst
 

sambrinar

Well-Known Member
Re: Vermetid snails

Ok here are bigger pictures I hope

between chaeto and rock
Saltwater_tank_036.jpg


What kind of snail. I thought it was an astera (sorry it's blurry)
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Not sure what is sticking out of top of snail, but I am thinking the goop is coming from that
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And this snail?? sorry it's blurry
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sambrinar

Well-Known Member
Re: Vermetid snails

Ok lets try this again

between chaeto and rock (this is as big as it would allow)
 

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sambrinar

Well-Known Member
Re: Vermetid snails

hmmm all I know is this stuff is getting all over the place. we clean it out and 5 minutes later it's back. frustrating. any thoughts??

#2 is actually sticking out of the middle of the snail shell. it looks like the goop could be coming from that??
 

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
RS STAFF
Re: Vermetid snails

Stringy brown stuff that grows extremely fast? Possibly dinoflagelletes.
Follow HMA's advice found here: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...ting-pesky-dinoflagellates-cyanobacteria.html


The following measures should be applied at least 7, better 14 days, very strictly to succeed.

-Measures for the reduction of the nutrients in an area near 0 mg (PO4/NO3)

-Admit no new nutrients like trace elements / amino acids and vitamins (NO B12).

-No water changes, on this occasion, also nutrients are introduced.

-The Silicate concentration in the tank must be absolutely 0 mg / l, check your osmosis.

-Raise the pH factor to 8.4, better 8.5; and hold by addition of Kalkwasser. Besides, the alkalinity should raise, or on relatively high level are held (≤ 12 dkH).

-Reduction of the lighting duration (HQI, MH, T5, T8) to maximum 6h / day (lighting duration of blue light can be longer).

-Everyday suck of the layers for the reduction of the population density and reduction of the toxicity.

-The treatment should be finished in no case too early there; otherwise, a high risk rules the infection once more spreads out. Treatment after the entire removal of all visible layers at minimum 7 more days continue.

Other steps:

Phosphat-Adsorber for the whole period, better consecutively, use (Rowaphos, Contraphos, Elimi-Phos, Timo PhosStop), less feed, Temperature lower.


If the treatment is concluded successfully I recommend a change of the sea salt.

... best of luck.

Good luck and keep us posted!
 

framerguy

Well-Known Member
Re: Vermetid snails

I think Woody has it. The stuff doesn't look like a Vermitid's net to me.

The last snail picture looks like a stomatella snail but I'm not positive.
 

sambrinar

Well-Known Member
Re: Vermetid snails

thanks, I looked at the steps posted by hma, I have everything except the Kalkwasser, but my ph is always 8.4 always. I guess I will try the decreased lighting, and continue sucking the goop out. there was another link on a forum posted by boomer, and it said they like high water flow. you know I just put in an additional power head. I'll turn it off.

other problem is the tank is at my office, can't suck it out every day. where did this stuff come from?? absolutely no problem until all of a sudden 1 week ago, wham, slimey crap everywhere.

when I get the bigger tank, should I get all new sand, and rock?? or can I scrub it off?? can it be transferred by moving the corals to the new tank??

is this stuff going to kill my fish and corals??

I AM GOING TO POST THIS UNDER ALGAE NOW. THANKS FOR THE INPUT
 

fatman

Has been struck by the ban stick
Re: Dinoflagellates

Is this a spin off from another thread? There are over several thousand species of Dinoflagellata. Even Zooxanthellae that live in soft corals, hard corals and some clams are Dinoflagellae. There are Dinoflagellaes (Gymnodinium and Gonyaulax) that create the toxins that cause red tide. Are you instead speaking of diatoms, or a cyano bacteria (algae). What color is it,? Is it under layed with air bubbles, or does it look like a thread filled blanketing layer.
 

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
RS STAFF
Brenda,
I just merged THREE separate threads (Vermatid snail?, Dinoflagelletes, & Red Slime Algae question)that you created asking the same thing about nusiance slime algae to help prevent others from asking the same questions about your set up.

Please reread this entire thread as you have been given tons of great info.

I see that you use Marine Snow? That is a product that is loaded with orgainics and can cause major algae issues if over used.
 

fatman

Has been struck by the ban stick
Oops! Wrong thread, I was on a cyano algae thread, do not know how I got here.

I am cofused , why are there snail treads on this page?

Oh well.

Actinic blue lighting does not support the lighting needs of cyano bacteria or most other nuisance alages. Nearly all algae require lighting in a wave length of 550 nm or higher. However as most corals (with symbiotic algaes) and coraline can get most of their nutritional needs met through the use of low wave length lighting the corals and coraline will do well if you starve the algae with light deprivation through just using actinic lighting. Remember you will likely also be supplying many less watts of actinic lighting then full spectrum lighting so overall the coral and coraline will just be recieving survival rations so they will alsotake up some of the dissolved organiscs as the algae dies. Remember though that most ambient lighting is in a large wave length as is incandescent room lighting, so for real effectiveness the tank should have its glass surfaces covered during light deprivation. Do water changes as the algae die and reklease their nutrients into the water. A week or two with just actinic lighting should clear the algae up very well and give you plenty of time to lower the nutrient levels and devize a liter feeding routine. Oftentimes when preople develop cyano bacteria it is in areas of relatively poor circulation in relation to the rest of the tank. It often starts where organic putrefication has or is taking place. Most alage that like increased flow is only beaciuse the wtaerflow brings nutrient laed water to them and because the incresed flow of additional added circulation pumps always increased the nutrients in the water as it blows putrefying organics out of nooks and crannies where it breaks down into usable nutrients faster. Unless your tank is a constant sand storm or your peeling the living flesh off of your corals it is not to much circulation. Most fish in coral reefs have to spend a lot of toime swimming like *ell just to remain in the same place. A lack of current/circulation/turbulent flow is one of the main reasons that most people who think they are feeding very little are still over feeding their fish.
 

Woodstock

The Wand Geek was here. ;)
RS STAFF
I just merged THREE separate threads (Vermatid snail?, Dinoflagelletes, & Red Slime Algae question)that you created asking the same thing about nusiance slime algae to help prevent others from asking the same questions about your set up.

Please reread this entire thread as you have been given tons of great info.

Fatman, I just merged three of Brenda's threads into one to compile all of her algae questions and member's responses.
 

sambrinar

Well-Known Member
Brenda,
I just merged THREE separate threads (Vermatid snail?, Dinoflagelletes, & Red Slime Algae question)that you created asking the same thing about nusiance slime algae to help prevent others from asking the same questions about your set up.

Please reread this entire thread as you have been given tons of great info.

I see that you use Marine Snow? That is a product that is loaded with orgainics and can cause major algae issues if over used.

thanks woodstock. I noticed that I have some overlapping threads. your the best!!!

I stopped the marine snow several weeks ago. NEVER again ;)
 

lcstorc

Well-Known Member
In moderation it can actually be good but it is very easy to over do it. I use it very sparingly every couple of weeks and my corals seem to appreciate it. Just like any other nutrients you have to carefully control how much you use.
 
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