Fighting Pesky Dinoflagellates & cyanobacteria!

[hma]

The following measures should be applied at least 7, better 14 days, very strictly to succeed.

-Measures for the reduction of the nutrients in an area near 0 mg (PO4/NO3)

-Admit no new nutrients like trace elements / amino acids and vitamins (NO B12).

-No water changes, on this occasion, also nutrients are introduced.

-The Silicate concentration in the tank must be absolutely 0 mg / l, check your osmosis.

-Raise the pH factor to 8.4, better 8.5; and hold by addition of Kalkwasser. Besides, the alkalinity should raise, or on relatively high level are held (≤ 12 dkH).

-Reduction of the lighting duration (HQI, MH, T5, T8) to maximum 6h / day (lighting duration of blue light can be longer).

-Everyday suck of the layers for the reduction of the population density and reduction of the toxicity.

-The treatment should be finished in no case too early there; otherwise, a high risk rules the infection once more spreads out. Treatment after the entire removal of all visible layers at minimum 7 more days continue.

Other steps:

Phosphat-Adsorber for the whole period, better consecutively, use (Rowaphos, Contraphos, Elimi-Phos, Timo PhosStop), less feed, Temperature lower.


If the treatment is concluded successfully I recommend a change of the sea salt.

... best of luck.

[hma]

In this case some explicatory words why one should raise the pH factor and the carbonate hardness with Kalkwasser:


Kalkwasser is a very old, originally in the sewage technology developed method. To produce Kalkwasser Calciumhydroxid is dissolved possibly in pure osmosis water (UO). Calciumhydroxid I can shop in very pure form in whole Europe in all chemist's shops, unfortunately, I do not know whether in the USA is also possible.

If Kalkwasser reaches fast in the aquarium water, the pH value of the aquarium water is raised also fast. To prevent this, the Kalkwasser should reach only drop by drop in the aquarium or sump (about 1 drop per second and 100 litres aquarum volume). Where the Kalwasser reaches in the aquarium, is at times a very high pH factor which allow the so-called phosphate precipitation. There originate from the calcium particles of the Kalkwasser and the phosphate particles available in the aquarium water a firm indissoluble connection - the calcium phosphate. Thus the excessive phosphate from the aquarium is slowly removed.

If the Kalkwasser method is applied, the pH factor rises with sufficient carbonate hardness about from on an average 0.1 to 0.2 pH steps. This light pH value rise shifts the carbon dioxide-carbonic acid-Hydrogencarbonat-Carbonat-buffer system easily in the direction of Carbonat. Less free carbon dioxide and carbonic acid is given therefore in the other side. These both forms of the carbon cause in aquariums with too high nitrate, phosphate and iron a raised green alga growth (as well dinos). If Kalkwasser is used, the danger of green algae or dino's plague is substantially lower.

[Woodstock]

Thanks Heinz for the info above

[framerguy]

Thanks Heinz! And thanks Doni Marie for hooking me up, this is great info.

[Woodstock]

Thank YOU for the idea

[ScubaDrew]

Thanks very much Heinz!

[DML08]

nice info... thanks.

[CMG]

Is there some kind of table that shows how much kalkwasser to add to your tank in order to get a ph of 8.5 based on the gallons of the tank? I mean I have no idea how many drops to use when I do this. I have a bad red algae problem right now.

[hma]

Originally Posted by CMG

Is there some kind of table that shows how much kalkwasser to add to your tank in order to get a ph of 8.5 based on the gallons of the tank? I mean I have no idea how many drops to use when I do this. I have a bad red algae problem right now.

NO , not as I know .... use the drop method and measure all 15 - 20 minutes the PH. The addition should be in the morning, then the PH is the lowest.

[CMG]

Ok, thank you.

[CMG]

Ok, so I bought some seachem kalkwasser. Its says to mix 2 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water. So I did that. Then I started a drip line into the tank. So far about 1 cup has been added to the tank and the ph is still the same. So I am assuming it is going to take a lot of this mixture to raise the ph, my concern is that I am going to lower the salinity too much in my tank. Any thoughts?

[hma]

In which manner should kalkwasser influence the density or the salinity? No, of course the kalkwasser has NO influence on the salinity or the density in the long term. Your ATO will simply complement a little less osmosis water, any more it does not happen.

[CMG]

Ok. Thank you. I think I just get nervous about these things easily. I never really add anything to my tank except when I do a water change and thats just salt water.

[wlninja]

Hi Heinz I have a question about the light duration.

You stated that the lights should be on no more than 6 hours but blues can be on longer. I am using 56watt T-5s and right now I run my actinics from 12:00-13:00 then daylight bulbs come on at 13:00 until 21:00. At 21:00 daylights turn off and actinics stay on until 22:00. For your suggestion would it be safe to just cut the length of the daylight bulbs to 6 hours and leave the actinics alone? Or do i need to cut the actinics time down too?

Also will cutting the light down to 6 hours affect corals? I have a Ricordea Florida (2 polyps) and a small Zoa frag (about 40 polyps) will these be ok on reduced lighting?

Thanks!

[hma]

Originally Posted by wlninja

Hi Heinz I have a question about the light duration.

You stated that the lights should be on no more than 6 hours but blues can be on longer. I am using 56watt T-5s and right now I run my actinics from 12:00-13:00 then daylight bulbs come on at 13:00 until 21:00. At 21:00 daylights turn off and actinics stay on until 22:00. For your suggestion would it be safe to just cut the length of the daylight bulbs to 6 hours and leave the actinics alone? Or do i need to cut the actinics time down too?

Also will cutting the light down to 6 hours affect corals? I have a Ricordea Florida (2 polyps) and a small Zoa frag (about 40 polyps) will these be ok on reduced lighting?

Thanks!

There you have misunderstood or misread something wininja. The stated lighting duration is valid as a maximum time for Reefer which have problems with DINOFLAGELLATES . The times stated by you are perfect.

As already said, the lighting duration stated in this Thread are valid ONLY for the case of DINOS in the aquarium. OK?