Recommendations for UV sterilizer for Max C 250?

ziggy

Active Member
IMO after researching various opinions a few years ago on UV sterilizers they are not worth the added cost and Maintenance for the service the perform. the heat, dirty tube, power consumption, radiation reduction with time etc are more negatives which outweigh the positive (only weakens - does not kill all lifeforms only when exposed to direct tube light).

Just my never to be humble opinion...
 

Salty150

Active Member
Hey, thanks for the reply!

Yeah... I know all of the pros and cons of using a UV - there has been debate both ways for years.

I have used one on all of my systems with great success.

Just wondering where to put it inline in this system...

And if anyone else has one on their Max C 250.
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
I don't think I have every seen one on a Red Sea Max 250/250C in all the post/tank in the RSM club here on RS

unless I am forgetting one... :trike:

but I guess you could plumb one in just like you would a chiller or a gfo/carbon reactor

see what others advise...
 

Salty150

Active Member
I don't think I have every seen one on a Red Sea Max 250/250C in all the post/tank in the RSM club here on RS

unless I am forgetting one... :trike:

but I guess you could plumb one in just like you would a chiller or a gfo/carbon reactor

see what others advise...

Thanks for the reply!

Yeah, that is what I was thinking... using the chiller connection to put the UV inline...

Are chillers "needed" on the Max C 250...?
 

nanoreefing4fun

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
Here what I have experienced ... if you run the rear cooling fans 24 x 7 and keep your ambient room temp under 74F you should be fine - I live in the deep south (summer temps to 115F) , do the above & all my corals & fish thrive
 

Salty150

Active Member
Thanks for the reply!

Yes, I am way up North! lol

Wisconsin - and we keep our home at 70 in the winter, 74 in the summer.
 

Lexinverts

Member
I am currently adding a UV sterilizer to my Max 250. I am plumbing it in-line so that it processes the water before it goes into the chiller.

I have been fighting dinoflagellates for 3 months and I need to try UV now or risk losing many of my corals.
 

Salty150

Active Member
Hey, thanks for the reply!

What UVs have you been looking at?

I am trying to match one up with the flow rate of the chiller inlet, etc...
 

Salty150

Active Member

ziggy

Active Member
Hey, thanks for the reply!

What UVs have you been looking at?

I am trying to match one up with the flow rate of the chiller inlet, etc...
Just make sure your flow rate through the UV stays under it's max high limit or it won't work. The particle contaminate suspended in the water needs to be exposed to the UV light for a specific length of time or it will not work.
 

Salty150

Active Member
Just make sure your flow rate through the UV stays under it's max high limit or it won't work. The particle contaminate suspended in the water needs to be exposed to the UV light for a specific length of time or it will not work.

Thanks for the reply!

Yes, that seems to be the problem - various manufacturers use different methods and stating their UVs flow rates, etc...

Is there such a thing as "overkill" in a UV sterilizer?

And by "overkill" I don't mean 15 Watt vs. 25 Watt - I mean 15 Watt vs. 50 Watt, etc...
 

Lexinverts

Member
Thanks for the reply!

Yes, that seems to be the problem - various manufacturers use different methods and stating their UVs flow rates, etc...

Is there such a thing as "overkill" in a UV sterilizer?

And by "overkill" I don't mean 15 Watt vs. 25 Watt - I mean 15 Watt vs. 50 Watt, etc...

The only problem with "overkill" is that you will start heating up your water more than is necessary with the UV sterilizer. A 50 Watt UV sterilizer is roughly equivalent to having a 50 watt heater heating your water.
 
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