I don't think I have every seen one on a Red Sea Max 250/250C in all the post/tank in the RSM club here on RS
unless I am forgetting one...
but I guess you could plumb one in just like you would a chiller or a gfo/carbon reactor
see what others advise...
Hey, thanks for the reply!
What UVs have you been looking at?
I am trying to match one up with the flow rate of the chiller inlet, etc...
Thanks for the reply!
Yes, I am way up North! lol
Wisconsin - and we keep our home at 70 in the winter, 74 in the summer.
I just ordered this one:
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/TMCUVSterilizer.html#vecton4
It's the 15 Watt model for aquariums--not the pond one. This website has lots of tips regarding flow, etc...
Go Badgers! I used to have season tickets to Badger Mens B-Ball.
Just make sure your flow rate through the UV stays under it's max high limit or it won't work. The particle contaminate suspended in the water needs to be exposed to the UV light for a specific length of time or it will not work.Hey, thanks for the reply!
What UVs have you been looking at?
I am trying to match one up with the flow rate of the chiller inlet, etc...
Just make sure your flow rate through the UV stays under it's max high limit or it won't work. The particle contaminate suspended in the water needs to be exposed to the UV light for a specific length of time or it will not work.
Thanks for the reply!
Yes, that seems to be the problem - various manufacturers use different methods and stating their UVs flow rates, etc...
Is there such a thing as "overkill" in a UV sterilizer?
And by "overkill" I don't mean 15 Watt vs. 25 Watt - I mean 15 Watt vs. 50 Watt, etc...
+1^The only problem with "overkill" is that you will start heating up your water more than is necessary with the UV sterilizer. A 50 Watt UV sterilizer is roughly equivalent to having a 50 watt heater heating your water.