Question on setting up my first RSM

[Lewik]

Hey all. I've been lurking this, and other forums, trying to get some good info on the hobby before I delve into things and now I've got my first tank ready to be set up (rsm d130).

Anyways, my question: i've read a few posts from RSM owners saying to not use the biological & carbon filters as the end up being detrimental to the system, and to use live rock in their place. Is this a common practice suggested by most or just a few random opinions?

 

[redseareef]

Lewik,
IF THEY ARE KEPT CLEAN.........not a problem. I am learing my system still and it will take months to learn it and become totally familiar with it. Many who claim that it's detrimental or not good for the tank in my opinion MAY BE WRONG.
There are many factors to consider BEFORE pre-judging the system. Flow rates,tank size,flow through the back boxes, husbandry techniqes and the list goes on for things that will effect the final outcome of the water quality.
The carbon is a must in my opinion. I am finding out that the pre-filter sponge may indeed be VERY beneficial in keeping the rest of the compartments clean. The bottom line is the sponge itself needs to be cleaned on a regular basis as to not become biologically active in breaking down food particles at a VERY fast rate. This is turn will lead to high nitrate levels.
The bio material may indeed beef up the systems bio capabilities as well as allowing a sanctuary for fauna to reproduce and feed the tank!
Intervention and cleaning techniques can and many times will make all the difference!
All in all the RedSea Max is a well thought out, excellent system that dollar for dollar will be very hard to beat!
I hope this helps....

 

[Reefmack]

Lewik - :welcomera to Reef Sanctuary and the Red sea Max Club forums. RSM 130D owners are now starting to show up - that's great! I started out with the bio-media, carbon, etc. and didn't remove the bio-media till the tank was up about 3 months or so. Just my opinion, but I'd advise starting up the tank per the Red Sea instructions - you can remove the bio-media later on. Or, start up without it and rely on your live rock in the tank to handle the nitrogen cycle. Carbon is good to use, but needs to be replaced every few weeks as it loses it's efficiency.

If you haven't lurked your way through all of the threads in this RSM section, have a look around. There are other new RSM and RSM 130D owners just starting up their tanks, and steveh of Red Sea has a thread called "RSM by the book" that should be helpful too.

Good luck with the new tank - time to stop lurking now LOL!

 

[steveh]

Personally I would keep both the biomedia and the carbon. We delibertely went for a very high grade carbon and it is good for at least 8 weeks. Changing it regularly makes a real difference, and its probably false economy to go for a lower rgade as it will be far less efficient. Before I joined Red Sea I did some comparative tests with various carbons and the Red Sea carbon was far and away the most efficient and removing both discolouration and harmful chemicals.

 

[redseareef]

steveh,
I will second what Steveh said! It keeps the water crystal clear and I would surely rate it right up there with the better carbons!

 

[MatthewJ]

my 2 cents...unless the new model makes it easier to remove the media, don't even start using it. It's a major PITA to remove because you have to remove the power heads. You can't remove the powerheads without removing the hood. I think you might have an advantage there if the new model allows you to remove the powerheads without removing the hood.

 

[redseareef]

Also, the bio media aids in the stabilization of the system. Fluctuations happen MUCH FASTER in a smaller volume of water. HAving that media there is a sure fire way to tackle spiky ammonia issues quickly and bring them down to normal levels. IF the sponge is kept in place before the bags and other chambers, it should keep everything quite clean.
My tank has been set up for about 14 days now I think. No debris at all in the other chambers. I have rinsed the sponge out several times. It catches darn near everything and all the larger particles with any weight to them that could sink to the bottom of other chambers.
The bio media also affords you the luxury to put LESS rock in the display tank and gives you more room for fish and corals. Which in turn allows for unobstructed currents in the tank and a cleaner tank altogether.
I will keep testing phosphate and nirate levels on a regular basis. My nitrates are still dropping. From 10ppm down to 5ppm now. Even with the bioballs in the chamber.............

 

[redseareef]

yea, the pumps are a piece of cake to remove! Hood stands straight up!!!! Pumps can be taken out in 2 minutes max!!!

 

[Reefmack]

myusernamerocks - This may help with holding the hood up while removing the pumps. Some used a block of wood, but I found it more convenient to use a piece of folded corrugated box as a support on the right side:

It relieved my wife of having to hold the hood up, or the chore of removing the hood altogether.

But, I agree - media under the pumps with any model is a PITA to change. That was one reason I kept a bag of Chemi-Pure Elite under the pumps and some carbon over the skimmer pump - lasts a few months and does a great job, and requires less maintenance in the "dreaded pump chamber",

 

[redseareef]

The Bermuda Rectangle???

 

[Reefmack]

Good one redseareef!

Lewik - stop lurking and let us know how your new 130D is doing, and if you have any questions.

 

[MatthewJ]

I'll do anything to prevent me from having to remove those darn plastic pegs holding the hood on. I did it numerous times the first couple weeks I had the tank.

RE: carbon. Are you running carbon all the time Terry, or just every so often? I was thinking of just throwing a smallish filter in there anytime I want to run carbon and/or more fine filtering than the course sponge. I was thinking it would only be needed like one day a week.

 

[Reefmack]

myusernamerocks - I have carbon in all the time. I change it out after about a month. Actually I run Seagel - a mix of carbon and Phosguard. Sometimes I just make my own Seagel by mixing carbon & Phosguard. I run a bag of Purigen too, and that I can recharge a few times. I keep my media and a pad in a media basket under the gate, where the skimmer once was. But, I may pull that basket out when I get the sump/fuge in tomorrow, and run some in the sump instead.

 

[yungreefer2410]

Lewik,
All in all the RedSea Max is a well thought out, excellent system that dollar for dollar will be very hard to beat!
I hope this helps....

until i invent my own!! (evil laugh)

 

[mweber21]

can someone let me know if my test results are fine for my rsm 1.025 salinity, 8.4 ph, 3.0 alkilinity, 450 calcium, 1280 magnisium, 0 ammonia, 5.0 nitrate, .05 nitrite

 

[Reefmack]

mweber21 - things look OK to me. 0 nitrite would be better, and 5.0 nitrate is not unusual, especially in a newer tank. Here's a link to a good water parameters page:

Water Parameters

Things are looking good!

 

[mweber21]

i am having problems reading the ammonia test, it looks like a yellowish green, so i don't know if its .25 or 0, it looks closer to yellow than green but not sure, i just added 3 small corals a couple days ago and i was wondering if that will cause the color to change a little and the ammonia to go up, it used to be always yellow.

 

[Reefmack]

mweber21 - I don't think the corals themselves would add to ammonia unless they were on some pieces of rock that had some die-off on the rock. Fish generate ammonia, as well as things decomposing in the tank (excess food, dead fish, shrimp & other organisms, decaying algae, etc.). Possibly you had a small cycle for some reason, or your cycle wasn't completely finished yet. Some of those tests can indeed be difficult to jusge the color changes. That's why I have a couple brands of test kit for most things - to get a "second opinion" when I'm concerned about the result of an important test.

 

[mweber21]

reefmack,
Thanks for your help, one of them had a piece of rock that it was connected to it, it's about 6" by 6"

 

[mweber21]

reefmack,
Also the other day my aquaskape fell down when I was cleaning the glass and it sturrd up slot and had to reacape