Please help! First drilled tank, overflow, and Sump. noooobbb here

reefle

Active Member
Hey all,

I just got my 100 gallon tank up but I'm still trying to figure out the overflow.

2013-11-05073153_zps309de74b.jpg


2013-11-05073203_zps1b416b8a.jpg


So from the first picture you can see where the overflow outlet is. It's only 1 inch across

The second picture you can see the compartment in the sump where its supposed to go into. This is only about 2 inches wide.

In my return section I have a pump that is rated at 900 gph.

There is about a foot between the top of the sump and the bottom of the return overflow.



I had some stupid plumbing tube that was 3 feet long and had to snake its way into the sump and when I tried using the overflow the whole thing was this bubbling/blurping monster. scared the crap out of me. So my next question is, what do you guys suppose I do?

1. Is my 900 gph return pump too powerful for my overflow pipe thats only 1 inch across?
2. How do I stop the blurping and bubbling from the overflow tube.
3. How should I set up a tube from the outlet into the sump?

helpful links, pics, posts, or paragraphs are all appreciated :)
 

kyle4201

Active Member
My overflow has lots of bubbles also, I have it about 9 inches beneath the water line in my fuge so there is no sound. Seems to work fine. I beleive there is a way to stop the bubbles with a valve or something but I never looked into it since im happy with the way it is.
 

Mike Johnson

Well-Known Member
One thing that might help is using both pipes in the overflow as drains and have the return go over the top. The more water that goes through the pipe - the more noise.
 

reefle

Active Member
My overflow has lots of bubbles also, I have it about 9 inches beneath the water line in my fuge so there is no sound. Seems to work fine. I beleive there is a way to stop the bubbles with a valve or something but I never looked into it since im happy with the way it is.

Mine was also at the bottom, but so much water was rushing through that it wasn't microbubbles making it in but actually the kind that you see when someone farts in a pool.
 

reefle

Active Member
One thing that might help is using both pipes in the overflow as drains and have the return go over the top. The more water that goes through the pipe - the more noise.

Only problem is, it was built to have one side as a return pipe and the other with a drain. Do you think reducing the return flow will help? I'd rather not get a new pump if I can help it though
 
Is the standpipe installed? Also, not sure I've ever seen a tank return pump with out a throttling valve (sure it can be done but seems conventional to me). I have a variable speed return and I still have a valve just in-case. Your flow though the sump should be slow if your using it as a fuge or similar. The water needs some "hang time" in there. :wave:
 

reefle

Active Member
Is the standpipe installed? Also, not sure I've ever seen a tank return pump with out a throttling valve (sure it can be done but seems conventional to me). I have a variable speed return and I still have a valve just in-case. Your flow though the sump should be slow if your using it as a fuge or similar. The water needs some "hang time" in there. :wave:

I do want to set up a fuge. Standpipes are all installed as well. Wish I knew what a throttling is/does/where it goes haha. Ive head your flow rate should be 10x your tank size? so wouldn't 900 gph be acceptable? Although it does seem like a lot to me...

some people have mentioned socks? what do these do
 
I do want to set up a fuge. Standpipes are all installed as well. Wish I knew what a throttling is/does/where it goes haha. Ive head your flow rate should be 10x your tank size? so wouldn't 900 gph be acceptable? Although it does seem like a lot to me...

some people have mentioned socks? what do these do

Shoot for 2x - 3X on your throughput. More is okay but the return isn't your main water flow in your DT. A ball valve should go between your pump outlet and tank. Do not valve you overflow line, that's bad ju-ju if not left 100% open.

Maybe post some pic of your standpipes. There should be little holes for example that if too big will cause gurgling pretty bad. Just stuff to dial in mainly, nothing that'll cause you an issue.
 

reefle

Active Member
Shoot for 2x - 3X on your throughput. More is okay but the return isn't your main water flow in your DT. A ball valve should go between your pump outlet and tank. Do not valve you overflow line, that's bad ju-ju if not left 100% open.

Maybe post some pic of your standpipes. There should be little holes for example that if too big will cause gurgling pretty bad. Just stuff to dial in mainly, nothing that'll cause you an issue.

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/equipment/88429-what-equipment-how-do-i-use.html

In the pictures, you can see what my return and drain look like. on my return I have some kind of plastic flexible return thing I bought from my LFS. It doesnt have a control on it, just lets water out. I'll have to figure out how this ball valve works cause I have no idea XD
 

reefle

Active Member
Shoot for 2x - 3X on your throughput. More is okay but the return isn't your main water flow in your DT. A ball valve should go between your pump outlet and tank. Do not valve you overflow line, that's bad ju-ju if not left 100% open.

Maybe post some pic of your standpipes. There should be little holes for example that if too big will cause gurgling pretty bad. Just stuff to dial in mainly, nothing that'll cause you an issue.

just read what a ball valve is. If I put a restrictor like a ball valve at the end of my return pump, will it damage or affect my pump in any way? I'm looking at cutting return by 50% from 900 to 450 gph and I don't want the pump to explode or something if I'm restricting its power of pumping 900gph
 

kyle4201

Active Member
No, it wont hurt the pump. A pump with an impeller can not handle the back pressure but our pumps use a fluted disc type thing and you can actually stop the flow and they will still spin (not recommended) .
 
just read what a ball valve is. If I put a restrictor like a ball valve at the end of my return pump, will it damage or affect my pump in any way? I'm looking at cutting return by 50% from 900 to 450 gph and I don't want the pump to explode or something if I'm restricting its power of pumping 900gph

It'll use less power... win-win.


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reefle

Active Member
No, it wont hurt the pump. A pump with an impeller can not handle the back pressure but our pumps use a fluted disc type thing and you can actually stop the flow and they will still spin (not recommended) .

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YHRJY/?tag=reefsanc-20

This is what I have. It has an impeller haha....so you were saying its not recommended but it won't hurt the pump? haha sorry im having trouble reading what you wrote
 
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YHRJY/?tag=reefsanc-20

This is what I have. It has an impeller haha....so you were saying its not recommended but it won't hurt the pump? haha sorry im having trouble reading what you wrote

Thats a funky looking impeller lol. It'll be fine. There called non-positive displacement centrifugal pumps. The impeller will "slip" in the fluid. Bigger pumps will cavitate and cause damage but these lil guys take it really well.


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Thanks! Guess it's time to find a good ball valve. any suggestions??

Take a piece of tubing with you to Lowes or Home Depot. One on the plumbing guys should be able to help ya out. prbly just need a 3/4 ball valve and 2 NPT to hose barb fittings. Get hose clamps also, stainless ones if ya can.

Some hose is non standard hence taking a piece with ya.


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How would it use less power? The motor is going the same speed, just less water coming out,, It might use more power cuz it puts more pressure on the pump actually

It's counter-intuitive granted, but were changing the pump curve and dynamics by adding "head". I'm not saying it's an efficient method by any means. Hard to explain so I'll copy-pasta some stuff if your interested:

".... Another important point is that centrifugal pumps will require their maximum horsepower, for a given impeller diameter and RPM, at maximum flowrate on their Head-Flow curve. As the Head (or Discharge Pressure) a centrifugal pump is working against is increased (i.e.-throttling valve being closed, tank filling up, strainer clogging, longer or smaller diameter piping, etc), the flowrate will decrease and horsepower will also decrease..."

http://www.driedger.ca/ce1_cp/CE1_CP.html

This one has a cool calculator too: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/horsepower-d_472.html

Hope that explains it a little better than I did lol :wave:
 
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