Phosphate Levels

DianaKay

Princess Diana
RS STAFF
I normally don't chase testing numbers but since I have installed my sump refugium...I've been testing my phosphate & trying to get it lowered. It has gotten up to 0.25 but lowered to 0.17 after my sump addition.
Just this last 5 days I've added a mesh bag w/PhosGuard...Here's my drop:
imagejpg1_zpsa7a78d03.jpg

But I think I will run a new round of it for a few days.
Please give me an idea (those of you who test for phosphate):
What does your Phosphate level run?
 

PSU4ME

JoePa lives on!!!
Staff member
PREMIUM
Take the average of 3 tests, that should help negate the error ratio. I run mine at 0.0 on the meter but anything between 0-.06 should be fine considering the error margin.

Keep in mind I run an sps tank which has different needs than lps/softy/mixed tanks
 

DianaKay

Princess Diana
RS STAFF
Thanks Brian! I am adding some SPS to my tank. Got 1st "sticks" Thursday. :)
My phosphates have always been high since the beginning.
(Probably has lots to do with my initial filling the tank with de-chlorinated tap water.)
I think if I can get it down, it will stay down :fingerx: that's my plan anyway.
I've never have more than a trace of nitrates....just Phosphate stays high.
 

Akshay

Member
Check the phosphates of your tap water aswell.
Sometimes its not just the source water but can also be the food which might add to the phosphates.
 

DianaKay

Princess Diana
RS STAFF
I am going to test the SW that I have made up for my water changed.
I use 0 TDS RO-Di water and Reef Crystals for WCs.
I do feed a couple of different flake foods.
Nitrates have never been an issue. My tank seems to be doing good but would like for the newly added SPS to thrive as well.
 

DianaKay

Princess Diana
RS STAFF
I am going to test the SW that I have made up for my water changed.
I use 0 TDS RO-Di water and Reef Crystals for WCs.
I do feed a couple of different flake foods.
Nitrates have never been an issue. My tank seems to be doing good but would like for the newly added SPS to thrive as well.

So I tested the NEWLY MIXED WC Water today for phosphate level:
34c4e550956feaa594b4bda97580490b_zpsdecb2fbd.jpg

I'm thinking that my tank is doing the best it can do with what I give it. I think I will need to run some form of phosphate reducer as long term plans. Are there any adverse affects to keeping the PhosGuard bag tumbling in my sump water flow? Any other recommendations?
My tank really looks good but now with adding SPS, do I need to strive harder?
I'm thinking that 0.03 will not be possible :dunno:
 

mikecc

Member
Are you still on your original batch of reagent that came with the machine? When I went thru mine and then got into a new box of reagent, mine dropped considerably. Keeping you phosphate media online is common practice, as phosphate is constantly being added to your tank.
 

DianaKay

Princess Diana
RS STAFF
I'd be proud to have a 43 year old tank that only had 0.25 test score for phosphate. :)
As long as my LPS stays looking healthy, I will probably give up testing & just wait & see how the SPS grows for me.
But I'm going to order a large container of Seachem PhosGuard & use 3/4ths cup fresh per week.
Unless someone can advise me of a better plan.
 

Paul B

Well-Known Member
But I'm going to order a large container of Seachem PhosGuard & use 3/4ths cup fresh per week.
Unless someone can advise me of a better plan.

Yes, I have a better plan. Forget the PhosGuard, take that money and go out and have a nice dinner with some decent wine. The next time you look in your tank it will still look the same PhosGuard or not.
I have never used PhosGuard, am I bad? :lookaroun
 

DianaKay

Princess Diana
RS STAFF
Paul B, I think you are right. I seem to be trying to fix something that obviously doesn't really seem to be in need of fixing. My tank is showing no signs of stress. I have no out of control algae issues. Only thing growing too fast in my tank is GSP & a few palyathoa that I don't like the color of. My tank isn't killing fish or corals & if it doesn't prove to grow SPS...them I'll just be happy with how good my LPS grows & looks.
Until it starts looking like I have a problem....I probably shouldn't try to fix it.
 

Paul B

Well-Known Member
Diana, now your getting it. Forget about buying stuff you don't need. The only thing growing to fast with me is my Grand Children and all it takes is some Animal Crackers.
We went out last night for some Sushi. They opened up a nice sized Sushi restaurant a few blocks from my house and we eat mostly seafood. Right now my copperband is hiding because I am getting hungry. :yummy:
 

Oxylebius

Well-Known Member
Di, those sps came from a tank with phosphate readings, they are used to phosphate levels higher then the ones you are striving for. And they are hardy sps, monties. If you are to worry about anything I'd worry about the mixed tank effect of sps, lps, and softies chemical warfare and other coral's stinging tentacles. Do you run carbon regularly?
 

bullet

Member
I read somewhere and I believe that it was on this forum that, dilution is the solution for pollution. That and another simple task is to watch what you are feeding and how much. I have noticed that when I feed with with frozen cyclopeze or frozen brine our numbers go up a little bit. also if we give them to much pellet food then we notice a little algae that we do not normally get with the Mysis shrimp.
 

bullet

Member
also the time of day that you do your testing can make a pretty big difference I know during the week I test around 4:30-5:00 no problems but if I test on Sat or Sun morning my numbers are off
 

Oxylebius

Well-Known Member
Why is that? I can understand higher test results after feeding (additional phates from food that the system hasn't been able to deal w/yet), but differences from morning to evening? pH differences sure, but phosphate differences?
 

DianaKay

Princess Diana
RS STAFF
Di, those sps came from a tank with phosphate readings, they are used to phosphate levels higher then the ones you are striving for. And they are hardy sps, monties. If you are to worry about anything I'd worry about the mixed tank effect of sps, lps, and softies chemical warfare and other coral's stinging tentacles. Do you run carbon regularly?

Sue, I have been running 2 bags of CPE (Chemi-pure Elite) ever since my tank completed it's cycle.
I've wondered if I should be keeping carbon on hand in case of an emergency. :fishy:
What carbon do you use or keep on hand? I will get some & use if needed.
I have space for whatever I need to use in my sump. But I don't want to be using stuff that pulls too many of the needed nutrients from my water. I have kept near zero nitrates the whole time since my tank cycled also. Some say zero isn't a good thing. This is all mind boggling to me :stars: Maybe I just need to not change anything until there seems to be a problem.
All is WELL right now. :thumber:
 

Snid

Active Member
I've read many threads and posts from all over as I have been working on getting my reef tank up and running. Patience, of course is the number one rule. The number two rule that I've found however, is to not make any drastic changes (or even make any at all). I just watched a documentary on sea creatures all around the ocean, and in it they mentioned how all the chemical balances were different from location to location. This combined with people trying to change things when nothing was wrong and then having problems leads me to believe that you should leave well enough alone, just as you suggested yourself. Or if you do start to make changes, then gradually change it over time. You have established a balanced ecosystem. It is thriving based on what it had available, changing it changes its needs.
 

Oxylebius

Well-Known Member
It is always good to have carbon on hand. Some people don't run it, others do. I'm in the camp that run it on a regular basis. There are advantages and disadvantages to consider w/running carbon or carbon reactors. Benefits include removal of dissolved organic compounds and organic toxins produced by critters in the tank. Cons include the potential of carbon producing head and lateral line disease of fish like tangs (long standing arguments on this topic).

I always have a bag of carbon in my tank, I change it out ~2-3months (no carbon reactor here). I run a very simple tank, protein skimmer and bag o'carbon. Why carbon? Because corals produce toxins (biochemicals) or they have bacteria/protists that produce toxins for defense AKA chemical warfare or allelopathy. Corals are always battling over space and defense of predators. It is not noticeable when they release their toxins, we can't test for it. Sometimes we notice other corals dyeing and we can't figure out why (no signs of disease or predators) and sometimes this is due to the toxins from another coral in the tank. These toxins can build up in a closed system until a whole tank is wiped out (leathers have been known to wipe out entire tanks). Carbon absorbs these toxins. This explanation is in the simplest of terms, it is more complex w/different corals producing different toxicity levels and different toxins. So, I always run carbon. BTW - algae and sponges also produce toxins as well. Everything is competing with each other for space.
 
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