No Tru-Union Ball Valve Before External Pump Inlet

[SkyReef]

If I use a tru-union ball valve on the return line, just before the inlet of the external pump, I gain an ability to remove the pump without draining the sump. However, in order to fit the tru-union ball valve + pump behind my tank, (i.e., the pump with the added length of the tru-union ball valve), I will need to turn my pump sideways. A sideways-turned pump means using two (2) 45-degree elbows or a curved section of spaflex PVC after the outlet of the sump and before the inlet of the pump. Bummer; it's better to have the return line to the pump short and straight, to avoid noise and friction loss.

So...

Why not just dispense with the tru-union ball valve before the external pump? It's true that I would need to drain the sump to remove the pump, but big deal! How often do I need to remove my pump? Not as often as I need the pump to be quiet (i.e., every day). Laying out the return line this way, I could simply position the external pump in-line with the sump-out line, not sideways to it. This would produce a quieter and cleaner return-line flow.

Has anyone ever done it this way, dispensing with the tru-union ball valve on the inlet side, to gain a non-elbowed inlet connection? Of course, I will have a tru-union ball valve on the outlet of the pump, just not the inlet. What do you think of my plan? Thanks!

 

[jpsika08]

I have mine exactly as you describe it, using 2 45 degree elbows, I'm having trouble with my pump and really don't know how much this thing set this way can be contributing to the problem, also, instead of the true union ball valve I'm using a single union without the ball valve, it's much more shorter and has the same function, but not blocking water to go through as it is not a ball valve, what I use to avoid water going out of the sump is an inner plug in the bulk head.

Good luck

 

[SkyReef]

I have mine exactly as you describe it, using 2 45 degree elbows, I'm having trouble with my pump and really don't know how much this thing set this way can be contributing to the problem, also, instead of the true union ball valve I'm using a single union without the ball valve, it's much more shorter and has the same function, but not blocking water to go through as it is not a ball valve, what I use to avoid water going out of the sump is an inner plug in the bulk head.

Good luck

Thanks, JPSika. So, even if I got the single-union, without the ball valve, to gain an ability to remove the pump without draining the sump, it will still be positioned sideways. I think I might try just doing it inline, without a sideways mount, to get maximum quietness. I can hear a lot of water swishing around on my current setup, with such a sideways-mounted layout. To calm that swooshing water down, I have to dial my pump WAY down. I'd like to avoid that swishing sound, with no traffic-jam of water around a bend or through elbows.

 

[DaveK]

I would not want to have a system with out true union ball valves on both the pump intake and the return. Using a length of spaflex is not a big issue as long as it's large enough to support the flow the pump needs.

I find that I need to remove a pump and clean the insides of it about every 6 months or so. It would be a lot more work if I first had to drain the sump. Also, pumps sometimes fail or need replacement parts. Being able to remove it and not have to mess with the rest of the system is a real blessing.

That being said, using a union and plugging the bulkhead fitting on the sump, as described by japsika08 would work, but it's sure a lot easier just to turn off a valve.

 

[SkyReef]

I would not want to have a system with out true union ball valves on both the pump intake and the return. Using a length of spaflex is not a big issue as long as it's large enough to support the flow the pump needs.

I find that I need to remove a pump and clean the insides of it about every 6 months or so. It would be a lot more work if I first had to drain the sump. Also, pumps sometimes fail or need replacement parts. Being able to remove it and not have to mess with the rest of the system is a real blessing.

That being said, using a union and plugging the bulkhead fitting on the sump, as described by japsika08 would work, but it's sure a lot easier just to turn off a valve.

Thanks, Dave. Good points to consider!