Mojoreef's Water Treatment Methods

mojoreef

Just a reefer
Nikki lots of folks do it that way, but I dont. The fish poop is probibly one of the best sources for food, and yes it is also a source of some of the worst stuff for your reef. What I am trying to set up with my system is the ability to control it. I leave it in the water column so that the critters that can use it have access to it. In my system when coupled with the food and detritus it very slowly builds up, (usually takes about a week or two) at that point I strip it with the use of the socks and the chemical filter. the water goes crystal clear. Now its just time to staart the whole process over again.
Nikki Alot of folks are always talking about fish poop and detritus being a food source and it is for sure, but if it is allowed to just sink to a plenum or dsb or to the LR it is only a food source for that and not for the things (like corals and such) that you want to feed.

Mike
 

Maxx

Well-Known Member
Mike,
Just out of curiousity, Do you feel that two Aqua C Remora skimmers on a 58 gallon tank will be appropriate for the heavy skimming you employ? I noticed that Jerel has mentioned the same concept in response to another person posting that they'll be using a denitrifying coil for their upcoming Starboard reef...
You'll find that if you use efficient wet skimming to remove detritus and not let it sit and break down, you're not going to need that.
The only reason I ask about 2 Aqua C skimmers is that I happen to coincidentally have two of them and thus would not have to purchase a new skimmer.
Also, do you have a substrate in your tank at all? I thought I remembered you stating that you had a very shallow CC bed that was vaccumed semi-regularly, but if you're not doing water changes, I'm not sure how you're going about that. Just curious.
I hate to say it, but I could really get into the KISS reefing principal....But then what would I spend all my hard earned money on if I didnt purchase the Aqua-equalizer or its latest trendy competitor of the week????
:D
Thanks for taking the time out to answer all these questions and give the intimate details of your system.
Nick
 

mojoreef

Just a reefer
Hey Nick happy New Year. I dont know to much about the skimmers you are refering to so I cant say for sure. But you could easily figure it out by just watching it and seeing if it produces enough foam and on a consistant level.
On the dentirfing coil, these are alot tougher then most folks think, they quit awhile to get going. and to be honest its going backwards again. My concept is to remove it before it begins to decompose, why let it rot to begin with???. If some happens to get stuck in their and rots, well I got a bunch of rock for that.
Yes I did run a 1/2 inch or so of cc on the exposed portions of my tank. Just annother stupid mistake I did in wanting to cover the BB. My advise on this DONT BOTHER, lol I removed about 3 or 4 months ago. Now the bottom of the tank is covered in thick layers of corraline, looks pretty cool actually. I do plan a dropping down some zoo's and a few more clams to cover some of the bottom.
Ok you got to tell me what the KISS means, lol. On the money spend it on the things you want to keep.
Just to go back for a moment. The concept is to deal with things prior to biological breakdown. Doing this allows for less micro systems to be stacked up ontop of each other (ie; I have Lr on top of a dsb and I use a macro algae ref/trees/algal turf scrubber and so on) Not to say that all these things dont work to a point, but its alot of time, effort, money and so on to just take care of what you could prior to allowing it to rot. The biggest thing that scares me about those system is the chances the take, If one of the spokes in the wheel fails its a domino effect.


Mike
 

tankgirl

Active Member
Hi Mike, Neat trick, about putting more holes at the far end of the spray bar! First time I ever heard that idea. :)

Wow! That's a great pic aside from showing the micron bag. Bet it clogs up pretty fast because it's 5 microns? But, I'll bet, too, that the water is crystal clear!! Do you rinse & reuse them? If so, how many times?

Also, I want to make sure I understand everything - you don't do any vacuuming or siphoning anymore? Just use the water motion to keep everything in suspension and into the overflow - is this right?
 
Last edited:

mojoreef

Just a reefer
actually TG I havent done a vac since the gravel removal. the bags when in the sump dont ever get close to fill for the 2 days or so they are in thier. Once I forgot about the bag and left it in thier for over a week and it still wasnt full. but I would not recomend leaving it in thier it would create a bacterial trap.


Mike
 

tankgirl

Active Member
Thanks Mike!!! Good info! I use 50 micron sacks and they tend to get clogged fairly fast, so I wondered about the smaller particle-size 5 micron filters. What about algae on the glass and stuff that sticks to the rocks - how do you deal with that?
 

RogueCorps

Member
Originally posted by mojoreef
Nikki Alot of folks are always talking about fish poop and detritus being a food source and it is for sure, but if it is allowed to just sink to a plenum or dsb or to the LR it is only a food source for that and not for the things (like corals and such) that you want to feed.

Mike

Hey Mike, The things that are fed in a substraight system, as I understand it, range from bacterial, to amoebas, rotifers, nematodes, etc. and fill the range of critter sizes up to larger pods. I do believe in the "food web" idea, that you want to feed the little things, so that they can be food for larger things. I really think it's a good way to provide a variety of food sizes for many animals that we keep like very particle size specific feeding SPS. Do you feed with a plan accounting for different food sizes?

-Rogue :)
 

Maxx

Well-Known Member
RC,
I love it when you post on threads like this, because you always ask questions froma viewpoint that I havent even considered. Not that others don't as well, but you ALWAYS make me think in different directions than I'm accustom to. I appreciate it, please keep it up.
Nick
 

tankgirl

Active Member
Hey Maxx, I forgot to mention - I love the AquaC's, they're incredible skimmers, tho' the breakin period is sometimes incredible too.
 

Maxx

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I like em too, but I have two HOB skimmers (Remoras) due to manufacturer screw up....so I was definately planning to run both of them on the 58. According to the literature, they are rated for up to a 75 gallon tank...so two should do fine. But it never hurts to dbl check.
Nick
 

mojoreef

Just a reefer
TG
What about algae on the glass and stuff that sticks to the rocks - how do you deal with that?
No algae on the rocks or glass TG beyond corraline, and for that I use a magnet once a week.

RC
Hey Mike, The things that are fed in a substraight system, as I understand it, range from bacterial, to amoebas, rotifers, nematodes, etc. and fill the range of critter sizes up to larger pods. I do believe in the "food web" idea, that you want to feed the little things, so that they can be food for larger things. I really think it's a good way to provide a variety of food sizes for many animals that we keep like very particle size specific feeding SPS. Do you feed with a plan accounting for different food sizes?
RC I think you will find the populations of the critters you listed to be not that much, but regardless lets go with the fact, say that the DSB is thriving with them for arguement sake. Most of the critters you have listed are part of a food cycle one feeding upon the other, and this is real nice but thier is a reason that they are in the sand, it protects them from preditation. The top line preditor in the sand would be the worms and the pods (not including stars or gobies and such). So this food web is a great benefit to those topline critters but not really to your corals, now I am sure thier is a possibility that a zooplankton (which I dont believe a dsb produces) and some pods may make it up passed all the fish , and crabs and duster and worms and such and be available to a coral or anenome but I believe that to be slim to none
Regardless of all of that RC Natural food sourses such as pods, zooplankton, phytoplankton, nematodes and so on really kind of suck from a nutritional point of view. The nutritional valvue of all of these critters lies in thier meat, problem is that only about 40% to 60% of thier bodies contain the meat. Personally I perfer to replace that meat source with actual meat from a blend of shrimp, scallop, and fish meat. I blend it so that it comes out is a multitude of sizes from microscopic to fish size bits. This way when the coral and or critter uses the energy to capture the prey they are getting 100% meat and not all the shell, antenii, legs and so on.
One more point RC on the natural food source. Yu have very little control over it, it will rise in population and die off with out you having any say in it. This translates to more water quality issues. A dsb is in a constant state of flux with populations being born and dieing off, with each die off comes nutrients, great for the cycling of the bed and bad for the critter we keep that do not like nutrient ladened water. When I feed my tank and do not rely on these natural fluxes, I control the quality of the food, and how much goes in and comes out. Its like serving dinner and then cleaning up after the meal. Dont worry about the SPS they farm thier own bacteria when they need nutrients to suppliment thier carbon production.

Mike
 

tankgirl

Active Member
I've got a really good picture so far. So after the micron bag, does the tank water go to the charcoal filter for polishing a couple days a week, or to the sump?

Also, what brand of charcoal filter do you use, and how often do you change the media, please?

Finally, dumb question; what kind of algae scraper do you use? I scrub like a maniacal cartoon and still can't get coralline off without a hard plastic scraper. Is your tank glass or acrylic? Thanks!
 

mojoreef

Just a reefer
TG the bags are right at the first chamber of the sump. the chemical filter are plumbed completely seperate, thier is a small mag 5 also in the first chamber it pumps up to a 3/4 inch line that houses all the inline probes for my octopus controller, at the end of the line thier is a couple of gate valves. one way off the gate valve is to return that water to the sump direct, close a valve and opening another changes the flow so instead of going directly to the sump it goes throught the filter and then to the sump.
For carbon I use proline. and i change it about once every 3 months based on using it for 2 days every couple of weeks.
Mostly i use a large magnet, tigershark I think, I also use a peice of acrylic for the spots that dont come off with the mag.


Mike
 

tankgirl

Active Member
Great! Thanks, Mike!!
Guys always get that incredible training so they can build rocket ships out of odd stuff in their pockets. Forgive my ignorance, but you're doing a fantastic job of explaining stuff. I've managed to piece everything together, so far, except the octopus controller? What does that do?
 

mojoreef

Just a reefer
TG a octopus is basically a computorized controler that runs all the functions of the tank (aquacontroller is another brand also). Its would take a bunch to explain it so let me just give you a couple of links

Aquacontroller
octopus

Mike
 
Top