Macro Algae Photo Period

prow

Well-Known Member
For a tank with an overflow and a skimmer and surface agitation would you consider the reverse lighting helpful? Or is it something that should be tested for using a night time PH measurement?

Just trying to see if I've absorbed enough. lol
no it will not be very helpful. IMO, its only helpful if you are having ph issues related to excess CO2.
it may increase exporting some, but taken as a whole it would be an insignificant increase and would not have any noticeable effect, that is if there would even be a increase.


MMM anyone see frankie:tumble:
 

Basile

Well-Known Member
Does anybody know if i should add nutrients to an all agae biotope too promote growth from my algae, there not doing anything.
 

BigAl07

Administrator
RS STAFF
Basil did you read my suggestion on your thread
For an algae tank I'd do away with the actinics and anything except just 6500K bulbs.

Macroalgae (and any other photosynthetic animal/plant) can experience "Photo-inhabition" where it's got so MUCH light it actually slows it's growth.
 

Luukosian

Well-Known Member
Basile,

Three main macro nutrients for plants, (I imagine macro algae is the same) are NPK, Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. In my freshwater planted tanks I have to add phosphorous and potassium(and trace element mixture) to get the quickest growth, most nitrogen is supplied by fish waste in my systems, I rarely dose it.

If you have just an algae biotope, and have sufficient density of plants these nutrients will get used up pretty quick...I've always wondered how you could get away with a packed full tank of fast growing marine algae without dosing co2, you would think this would be a limiting factor.

Depending on if you have fish in this system I would do a little experimenting with dosing, but like I said my experience on this note is with freshwater.

I use K2SO4 for potassium, KNO3 for nitrates, and KH2PO4 for potassium, and CSM+b for traces if that helps, not sure how these would react in saltwater.
 

Basile

Well-Known Member
Basil did you read my suggestion on your thread


Macroalgae (and any other photosynthetic animal/plant) can experience "Photo-inhabition" where it's got so MUCH light it actually slows it's growth.

Yes i did thank Allen , i'm removing the mud today, i've change my one tube flurescent for a two tube one.If i get Photo-inhibition i can always remove one , but at least its there if i need to. I'll transfer the lot in a 20 G , so i can put a bigger power head to add more current to help controle the cyano.However i'm a bit scared that all that moving around may start a small cycle , what do you think? Anyway i guess i have no choice, to correct the mud problem.My thinking behind the mud was for root of magrove shoots and the elements for algae growth, i mean my macro algae . I guess the experiment whent the other way, bummer.I guess now that the mud be removed i'll have dose some nutrients. Ok thanks for your help, its being done today, whis me luck.
 

Rhodes19

Active Member
Hi All,

What kind of macro aglae do I want to use for my 180? I think the answer will be cheato but I want to make sure. Is there a certain type I should look for? If I understand correctly, I put it in my fuge and place a light over it and have it run 12 on, 12 off and if I want more export, run the lights on a reverse cycle. Am I on track? Is there anything else I need to do for macro algae (short of re learning the kreb's cycle :D)? Thanks. :)
 
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