Looking to set up 40 gallon saltwater tank. Need some advice.

[Kolgirm151]

Hey, I'm new on here. Was doing some research and stumbled upon this website, seems like it would be a good place to inquire about setup of a 40 gallon breeder reef tank. I'm looking to start with a pretty basic setup. I've done a lot of looking around at several setup videos and equipment lists etc. Have a good feel of how to go about setting up and cycling a saltwater tank. But just trying to get some definitive answers so that I don't make bad choices in equipment etc.
The 40 gallon breeder is currently set up as a freshwater tank but the fish are being moved to my two other smaller tanks. I plan on cleaning out all of the equipment and tank entirely spotless and restarting as saltwater. The current equipment I have is: 40 gallon breeder tank, a 2 part folding glass lid, 150 watt heater, Whisper EX45 Power Filter, and the light is "Coralife F/W T-5 Aqualight Double Strip Light-36"
w/(1) Colormax F21-T5 BP & (1) 6700K F21-T5 BP bulbs 21 watts each. I took a picture of the tank just now just in case it's needed for some reason.

Here's the link to the picture: ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

Any advice to help me get what I need to get it running would be greatly appreciated. If anything else is needed to be known just let me know and I can provide more details.

 

[tnwillia]

Welcome to Reef Sanctuary!

 

[ChrisY]

Just off the cuff, but thanks for joining and asking. Reefing is a great hobby!

a 40B tank is a great place to start with reefing I think. Some things that are going to be different from freshwater as I am sure you are aware are water chemistry is important in reefs, more sensitive than in FW, I think. Filtration systems are different. In salt water we typically rely on 3 filtration mechanisms. biological (live rock and sand bed, not the gravel used in FW aquaria) and or bioballs etc, but those are going out of favor), mechanical with filters, sponges etc to take particulate matter out of the water column and chemical. Here you can go a number of different paths. At first I used bio balls and carbon, I have since removed the activated carbon and bioballs and not just use ChemiPure Elite and Purigen in their place. I am not endorsing either one, but it just happens to be what I use and like the results.

Also Water changes are KEY. I do about a 15% water change a week, religiously, for a couple reasons one to get rid of toxins that might build up. There is a phrase that I like the solution to pollution is DILUTION. The second is that with water changes you are freshening the water and adding back trace elements and calcium etc that the inverts need to grow. As to lighting, well it really depends on what you plan on growing. I am not familiar with your particular lights but I am sure someone on the forum is. Basically you will need to tailor your lights to what you want to stock in the tank. SPS have different needs than LPS or mushrooms etc. So just make sure your livestock are able to get what they need to be healthy and happy.


With a 40G I would look at eventually getting a protein skimmer, if you have many fish producing bioload and as we all do at some times over feed a skimmer is a great way to eliminate excess food and waste in the tank before it can turn into ammonia which can be a killer as well as other nitrogen carrying compounds that are toxic.

Just my $.02 and welcome to RS!!

 

[nanoreefing4fun]

to ReefSanctuary, a real Sanctuary of reef forums, with lots of very nice members

 

[StirCrayzy]

Welcome!
First thing is plan exactly what type of tank you want. Types of corals, Fish, Rockwork, SandBed
Make a plan, take your time, ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS!
There is a wealth of knowledge her on RS, So many intelligent members and fascinating experiences.
Browse through the forums, read the Sticky's.
and start a Chronicle so we can follow along.

 

[Built347]

Knowing a general path of the tank beforehand will allow you to tailor it towards what you specifically will need....

How far are you wanting to go with it?.. your t5 setup with a couple new bulbs will get you started with soft corals... if you are interested in lps sps you will either need more t5s or replace the unit all together with a hotter system....

Are you planning a sump or are you wanting to use hang on the back filters?

Are you wanting to reef ready your 40b or are you planning hob overflow?

Basically... what's you plan?.. in depth.

 

[ChrisOaty]

You've got a good starting point if you're going to clean it up and start from scratch. I would highly suggest drilling the back or bottom of the tank for overflows and use a sump. Sumps provide more water capacity (help stabilize your tank) and a place to house all your unsightly equipment for filtration. My favorite style of overflow would be a bean animal type. I've used this on two tanks and love the results and the peace of mind afforded by its design. My most recent tank was a 40 gallon breeder, drilled bottom, custom overflow into a 29 gallon custom sump on a stand I built myself. For lighting I decided to go with LEDs because I did not feel like spending the money on a chiller during the summer months and they introduce very little heat compared to other forms of lighting. In my sump, I split the overflow into a filter sock and an algae turf scrubber, I have a chamber for a small moving bed filter (but never got the k1 media for it), purigen, deep sand bed (about 4-5 inches) and a refugium.

These are just the things that I did which have worked for me. The best thing you can do is build a list of what you'd like and budget for it. Don't skimp or think you can do it later...in almost all cases it's better to save up and buy the better product than to compromise. Also remember that nothing good ever happens fast in a reef tank. I kept a fresh water tank long before I dabbled in salt water and, while I enjoy my salty adventure, there are things you cannot get away with in salt water that are given leeway in fresh. Welcome to RS!

 

[sk8rdn]

Welcome to RS!

....Color by Technicolor....

 

[DaveK]

As you can see the op got a lot of replies, and advice. However the advice is very incomplete. You just cant cover everything someone needs to know in a typical online post. So to help out I shal repost the following -

Standard Lecture #1 – Advice for people new to the hobby

The very first thing you want to do, before you spend any money on equipment or livestock, is get yourself a few good books on state of the art reef systems. Then read and study them, so you have some idea about what your are doing.

Here are two to start with -

The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert Fenner
The New Marine Aquarium by Michael Paleta <---This book has an especially good section on fish suited to someone starting off in the hobby.

This is information that you can not easily obtain from the net. While it's out there, it's all over the place, and there is a massive volume of information.

Once you get that done, plan or rethink your system. What do you want to keep? Do you have the necessary equipment? Do you have the knowledge to keep the livestock you want? Do you have the time to dedicate to keeping a system and it's livestock?

Many salt water fish, corals and inverts often have very specific requirements. Some are extremely difficult to keep alive, even if you do everything right. Before you get anything, research it, and be sure it will work out in your system.

Lastly, you will find that most LFS people are clueless when it comes to SW systems. Verify their advice, until they prove otherwise.

Some additional points I'd like to make.

Salt water systems, especially reef systems, are very different from their fresh water counterparts. Expect to do a lot of relearning. For example, canister filters are common in FW systems, but only not used too much in SW systems.

Always buy top quality equipment. It will last, so you'll only need to buy it once. This does not mean most expensive. Many times a moderate priced item will be just fine, as long as it's got the quality.

 

[ChrisY]

I agree with both books Dave posted. Both and more are sitting on my shefl in 'well read' condition. (as well as his other advice) one thing he hinted at regarding books is 'modern' this hobby has evolved a lot over the years and getting the best info from 1975 might not be the best idea... as with fish and thing books will pass the sniff test.

 

[mcentire1123]

Welcome to RS!

 

[Kolgirm151]

Lots of replies lol. I haven't been on the computer much since my post so just now getting a chance to reply. Thanks for all of the advice. Rather than address everyone separately I'll just try to do it all at once.
As far as filter systems go I went to a local pet store that's not just the average know-nothing place. They have a ridiculous about of stuff, about 7 very large established saltwater tanks that have been there for like 5 years plus, and a good 20-30 other saltwater tanks where there's fish for sale. All of their tanks are very healthy and their staff that is mostly a family know just about everything you can ask. I found a few options there in terms of a hang on back filter, powerhead, and to get another basically a duplicate of my current light. Including links to the filter and pow
Powerhead: AquaClear 50 Powerhead
Filter: Aquaclear 110 - $82.50 : Blackwater Aquaria Fish and Discus Fish Supplies | Aquarium Supplies
But I'm considering trying to get a better deal through petco by getting this filter instead, only if it will accomplish the same job providing I do 25% water changes often.
Marineland Emperor 400 system: Aquarium Filter Systems: Marineland Filter System at Petco
Once I've chosen which of these systems. I plan to let the tank cycle freshwater for a week then add salt (the tank is still bare at this point no sand or anything in it). Once mixture is correct I will begin adding my sand, I'm not using live sand. Possibly will add some live rock or coral to make the process easier. I will let the tank cycle for 2 months while I make sure water quality is ideal. Next I'll add some sort of hardy fish most likely cleaners, I'm not planning to go overboard at all with this tank. I don't need it to be crazy extravagant just a small reef bed with 5 or 6 fish in it possibly. I will just see how it pans out. I'll figure out the details on what fish I'm looking to get while the tank is cycling. I have no problem waiting to let it run well, not in a hurry.
If anyone knows anything I missed or can give me some insight as to if either of these filters will work I'd appreciate it.

 

[steved13]

Welcome to Reef Sanctuary!!

 

[StirCrayzy]

First thought. I would try to steer clear of HangOnBack filters. Chet are ok for FishOnly tanks, but are arguably the least effective of all filter types. The easiest most worry free filter would be a multi-stage canister. With that you should be able to keep fish and some hardy corals. But definately plan for a protein skimmer at least in addition to what you select for filter. Most folks here ise a sump system with refugium , or moreexperiences recently use algae turf scrubbers.
READ THIS ------!> http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...ver-replaces-skimmer-refugium-everything.html

There are a lot of thing for you to resesrch before buying ... read through as many threads as possible before getting ahead of yourself. Take your time.
Probably the best advice you'll ever get here is .....

"the faster you go the harder you crash."

 

[Uslanja]

Hi Kolgirm151! Welcome!! You can get away with HOB filters, we have. You may wish to change to some other type of filtration later, but they will work. We use both the Marineland Emperor 400 and the Aquaclear AC110 HOB filters and one thing that we noticed is that the Aquaclear returns the water into the tank on a different angle than the Marineland does and bubbles in the water column as well as salt creep are greatly reduced with the Aquaclear. Now the only other other thing we could possibly suggest is that you post tons and tons of photos so that we can enjoy the visual side of your build right along with you!

 

[Uslanja]

Just posted and then read StirCrayzy`s post above..... we also use a Fluval 205 canister filter on our 23 gallon nano and have no issues. In fact today`s parameter check on that tank is zero for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Phosphate. We have definitely had good results from that canister filter for over a year now on that tank. Canisters are something that can also be used successfully, but we do stay on top of the husbandry tasks!!

 

[StirCrayzy]

Canisters are something that can also be used successfully, but we do stay on top of the husbandry tasks!!

^ +1 ^ Definitely need to keep eyes on maintenance.
My critical params also stay at Zero . During heaviest stocking my 40g with Eheim ProII Canister, only peaked Nitrates to 40 ppm with 25% WC monthly.
I will speak highly of this Eheim as i am on year 10 now and the only thing Ive had to replace is an O-ring.

 

[Jblaise]

Red sea max 130d

 

[Doogle]

After two m.l. Bio wheels and two a.c.110 I really like the media on the a.c. 110 better. It is more flexible and sturdier sponge you won't replace as much, they clean up better too.canisters get a bad rap but my Rena xp3 , 3 fluval 205 canister filters work well for fresh and salt just make sure you clean them often, and test your parameters often. If you wait till 4th of July weekend you will find extremely crazy deals on these at petsmart i got the fluval 205 for $50 and the the Rena xp3 for $50 . No joke. I would recommend a high output t5 light fixture, I believe the fixture you have is normal output t5 36" and 21 watts instead of 39w and you can't get awesome ati or geissman bulbs for those normal output fixtures. The ones you have are fine for low light corals like softies but you can have pretty much have anything with 4 lamp t5 h.o. fixture(6 is better for a 40breeder) After you get set up you may look into circulation pumps like koralias if you want more demanding corals, and look into reef octopus skimmers. Since you said your going basic I wouldn't bother drilling or doing a overflow, you can do fine with what is listed.