Light Trolley???

Eric

Google Warrior
PREMIUM
I probablly end up using two motors one to pull to the right and another to pull it back to the left. Real basic system but I do need to figure out how to start and stop it over certian areas.
 

reef dummy

Member
Have you contacted LiveAquaria, they run a system with lights that move so they have no hotspots. They also run 400w. It might be worth a n e-mail to see exactly what they use.
 

Eric

Google Warrior
PREMIUM
Yeah I'll have to check it out, I am surprised how hard it is to find a simple Dc controller.
 

Eric

Google Warrior
PREMIUM
I think i have this figured out, I am going to use two motors, two times, and two momentary pushbutton switches.

I will set up the timers to come on when I need the lights moved as the lights travel down they will hit the switch and stop the motor. Very basic and simple since i couldn't find the timers i could program to half seconds this will kill power to the motor once it reaches it's position.
 

reef dummy

Member
I guess the good thing is that it's the lights you're experimenting with and not something like your ATO or kalk. If it doesn't work no harm done. Keep us posted.
 

Eric

Google Warrior
PREMIUM
Yeah that is true :) worst case scenario I burn up a motor but the switches should work.

Let's say it takes 110 seconds to move the lights from one end to the other all the times I found can only be set by minutes so it would power the motor for two minutes. With the switch I can kill the power when the lights are in place at 110 seconds them the timer will kill total power at 120 seconds till the next day at the same time.

I will rig the motor and timer at the other end to do the same thing.

There really is not much that can go wrong in this setup, the chances of a switch failing is slim to none and even if it does total power will be cut off by the timer in a minute or less.

Sounds good in theory anyways.
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
I think i have this figured out, I am going to use two motors, two times, and two momentary pushbutton switches.

I will set up the timers to come on when I need the lights moved as the lights travel down they will hit the switch and stop the motor. Very basic and simple since i couldn't find the timers i could program to half seconds this will kill power to the motor once it reaches it's position.

Momentary pushbutton switches would be kind of klunky, go for micro switches. Here is an example (offsite)... Omron Electronic Components - SS-01GL2 - Sensors, Switches & Relays - Switches - Allied Electronics

Notice how the lever stick out and has a roller so it will easilt be tripped by something that contacts it.

Another option would be magnetic reed switches. The operate when a magnet comes close to them. These are often the type of switch used in an ATO. Here is an example (offsite)... Hermetic Switch, Inc. - HSR-1015RT 20/40 - Sensors, Switches & Relays - Switches - Allied Electronics

I would wire all this using low voltage connections. You could them connect the switches directly into and common logic family of ICs. Then the IC's would be used via a relay or other device to operate the motor that moves the fixture.

I think 6 hrs a day over the corals is just a little low, but 8 hours should be enough.
 

rgfast

Active Member
I've had to think about this abbit and this is my idea patent pending water weights each side of tank simple dosing pump and timer .It would be as easy as transfer water to which either side you wanted lights to go to

just a thought
 

DaveK

Well-Known Member
I've had to think about this abbit and this is my idea patent pending water weights each side of tank simple dosing pump and timer .It would be as easy as transfer water to which either side you wanted lights to go to

just a thought

IMHO, this would be difficult to get to work.

The "water weight" would increase in weight until it overcame the static friction of the light. as soon at that occurred, the light would tend to speed up and rush to the other end quickly, because rolling friction is a lot less than static friction.

This is why it's a lot harder to start something rolling that it is to keep it rolling.
 

Eric

Google Warrior
PREMIUM
I have decided to go with the light bar Rg posted earlier in the thread, the diy would be cool but the control that system gives you is kinda nice and I can't really recreate that.
 

Frankie

Well-Known Member
RS STAFF
Working on and idea for a trolley system to move my lights from one side of the tank to another, I can make the trolley system but the problem I am having is how to control the motor to pull them down to the other end and have it stop exactly where I need it.

The idea is to run dual 400w halides over one end of the tank for 6 hours then have it trolley to the other end and run for 6 hours then turn off and reset at the beginning.

My thinking is with the 400w halides over one section my corals will get the light they need in 6 hours then I can bring them down over another section for 6 hours saving me on bulbs, equipment costs, and power consumption. If my thinking is correct the corals will still get the photo period they need.

Let me know what you think of the 6 hour photo period and any ideas how to control the setup.

Thanks

Eric
Have you tried hydroponic suppliers? A lot of indoor growers use them and I saw a lot of them while reading threads.
Grow Light Accessories
 

Eric

Google Warrior
PREMIUM
Frankie, the 3.5 rail system is the one I am looking at :) Looks like a really nice setup for the $$$
 

rgfast

Active Member
Dave thought about that think simple fiction brake would make it controllable , but this was just DIY idea I personaly would just go with the elc. motor kit like Eric has decided to do
 
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